Tips and pointers with build please

[Heres_doe_]

Doing a 125 currently and need a few pointers. I have a few things that aren't right to me.
1) small gap under header should i just shim it
2) i made the length 72" and didn't think about the tanks black support which more sticks out ¼ on both sides.
3) does frame NEED vertical support in the middle
4) the frame wobbles a bit I'm assuming because the floor might be uneven
5) what size plywood should i put across the top of the header under the tank and should i also put some soft material on top of the plywood as well

 

[Jekyl]

Pics of my 90g stand.

 

[Heres_doe_]

Pics of my 90g stand.

U still didn't help lol u didn't answer one question.

 

[Jekyl]

Gave Pic to show the extra support needed. Will take out the wobble. Top I used 3/4 plywood. They also make mats you can buy to put underneath to help further level.

 

[Heres_doe_]

Gave Pic to show the extra support needed. Will take out the wobble. Top I used 3/4 plywood. They also make mats you can buy to put underneath to help further level. This stand will support your tank also, as it's built for a 120g. No middle supports needed.

This is what I used to make the stand

 

[Jekyl]

I edited my statement after the fact. Yours is a 6' and I don't want to give bad advice.

 

[Speaker]

With the tank being 6ft you may want a center brace on at least the back of the stand. Rimmed glass tanks typically only need their edges supported. No need to put a piece of plywood under it unless you want it. Adding cross bracing like in jekyl's picture would help with the wobble and keep the stand from twisting. If you do it on the bottom put a piece of plywood over the braces so you can set your sump on it, or use fewer braces on the bottom. I wouldn't worry about the tank overhanging 1/4in or less. If it bothers you, putting a piece of plywood over the top and cutting it so it overhangs slightly to the same extent as the tank would suffice.

 

[Heres_doe_]

With the tank being 6ft you may want a center brace on at least the back of the stand. Rimmed glass tanks typically only need their edges supported. No need to put a piece of plywood under it unless you want it. Adding cross bracing like in jekyl's picture would help with the wobble and keep the stand from twisting. If you do it on the bottom put a piece of plywood over the braces so you can set your sump on it, or use fewer braces on the bottom. I wouldn't worry about the tank overhanging 1/4in or less. If it bothers you, putting a piece of plywood over the top and cutting it so it overhangs slightly to the same extent as the tank would suffice.

I have two top braces on 24" and 48"

 

[Heres_doe_]

With the tank being 6ft you may want a center brace on at least the back of the stand. Rimmed glass tanks typically only need their edges supported. No need to put a piece of plywood under it unless you want it. Adding cross bracing like in jekyl's picture would help with the wobble and keep the stand from twisting. If you do it on the bottom put a piece of plywood over the braces so you can set your sump on it, or use fewer braces on the bottom. I wouldn't worry about the tank overhanging 1/4in or less. If it bothers you, putting a piece of plywood over the top and cutting it so it overhangs slightly to the same extent as the tank would suffice.

Now what about the couple gaps from corner to top header should i wedge some shims in there

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

Yes u can shim. It will settle with the water weight.
D

 

[C_AWOL]

I would strongly suggest adding a plywood top that can alleviate any imperfections that dimensional lumber will have. Gives you the opportunity to fully support all four corners as well (the picture you provided with the tank on the stand shows a noticeable gap which worries me)
Secondary is that gap between the dimensional lumber (support?) means that your upper frame is being supported/held up by screws and not by the 2xX which is a lot stronger than the sheer strength of said screws. Fixing that is imperative to ensure adequate supporting strength.
If a planar is available then I would personally disassemble the entire stand and send it through that and redo the entire stand.

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

I will 2nd adding a nice top. Some ppl go as far as a butchers block
D

 

[Heres_doe_]

I would strongly suggest adding a plywood top that can alleviate any imperfections that dimensional lumber will have. Gives you the opportunity to fully support all four corners as well (the picture you provided with the tank on the stand shows a noticeable gap which worries me)
Secondary is that gap between the dimensional lumber (support?) means that your upper frame is being supported/held up by screws and not by the 2xX which is a lot stronger than the sheer strength of said screws. Fixing that is imperative to ensure adequate supporting strength.
If a planar is available then I would personally disassemble the entire stand and send it through that and redo the entire stand.

Yes that gap is in 2 sections of support it's about 1/8" - 3/16". That's what I'm asking should i shim. I don't have a planer so that's out. The left side of that same 2×4 is flush the second support has a gap. Same as the other one

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

1/2"-3/4" plywood top works too.
D

 

[C_AWOL]

If sanding/using a planar isn't an option, I personally feel more comfortable buying new straighter pieces of wood (a quick flat floor test is usually sufficient in my experience but your mileage may vary) and replacing the problematic pieces.

In turn depending on the thickness of said dimensional lumber you can cut it and repurpose it for bottom bracing to reduce any racking and/or use them as center supports since them being super straight isn't as important.

Ultimately if all of that isn't an option then shimming may be the only option for the gaps between the top frame and supporting post

 

[Heres_doe_]

If sanding/using a planar isn't an option, I personally feel more comfortable buying new straighter pieces of wood (a quick flat floor test is usually sufficient in my experience but your mileage may vary) and replacing the problematic pieces.

In turn depending on the thickness of said dimensional lumber you can cut it and repurpose it for bottom bracing to reduce any racking and/or use them as center supports since them being super straight isn't as important.

Ultimately if all of that isn't an option then shimming may be the only option for the gaps between the top frame and supporting post

Thanks a ton for the options. I honestly don't want this crashing all over my living room lol everything is pretty solid and straight for the most part. So i think I'll shim it as long as it is nice and tight in there. If i know i feel comfortable with it like that.