To Uv or not to Uv that is the question?

[Pennywise67]

So I am setting up a new 125 gallon Reef tank, and have been going back and forth whether or not to add a UV sterilizer to the system. Tank will be mixed reef ( probably so SPS, but everything else). For fish I will either QT or buy already QT fish ( aka Dr Reef). So in reality will be used really for water clarity primarily, with parasite/infection control a secondary ( if at all). Whats the groups feeling on using one? any recommendations on brand and size if i do use one? I would probably plumb it in line with the return pump. Thanks in advanced!

Larry

 

[blaxsun]

My feeling is that when (not if) QT'ing fish fails, you're hooped. So I'd get a 25-watt UV for parasite control.

 

[Zero_Cool]

If it is in your budget then add it. Much easier to plan for plumbing at the start than later. Also, it is my belief that unless you plan to quarantine all of your corals and inverts for 76 days in a fishless system that something will get in and a UV may be a helpful tool to battle it.

You could also run it at a higher flow rate to help fight algaes.

 

[TarheelGrey]

There will also be a time when you will have a bacteria bloom that you will want UV to correct instead of waiting it out and hoping it doesn't choke out your tank

 

[Enderg60]

Better to have it and not need it.

If you want it for ich control go with something in the 40-80w range.

 

[Bigmikespc]

It’s better to have and not need, than to need and not have. If it’s a budget thing then the icecap model wouldn’t be a bad option. It can be annoying to get sealed correctly, but for a 40 watt UV delivered to your door for under $300 it’s a great deal. I run two on my 150 gallon.

 

[iReefer12]

UV all the way, absolutely no hesitation. Sized correctly and with the right flow rate, can be a lifesaver for your fish. To me, that’s worth every penny.

 

[thecitadel]

Always had one in my tanks. When I had small 40 and 55 gallon, I had those little 7w ones. Worked great. When I moved to the 220 gallon with 120 sump, I made sure to connect it in line with my return, with a Gate Valve, pulling from the sump and returning to the display all from the return pump. It's for up to I believe 1000 Gallons but since I have it on a Gate Valve, I have slow flow going through. Works great.

 

[BigRick]

Always UV

 

[wlmalek]

to UV of course if you can afford it. you can keep it off if you want and use it when needed. Bigger will not harm but can heat up you water.

i ran it from day one after cycling and never notice any negative effect.

 

[Coral Kai]

Always UV, even a little one

 

[exnisstech]

I know I'll be in the minority but I'm currently running UV on 2 of my 3 systems. They are sized correctly and flow rate checked. To be perfectly honest I have zero evidence that they do anything in my systems except generate some extra heat. I still get some gha, Dino, cyano and diatoms at times. I have to clean my glass daily or ever other day at the longest. The tank without UV is no better or worse than the tanks with it. I've recently put them on timers and am only running them for 6 hrs a night. I'll most likely remove them at some point.
Maybe they work for disease? My oldest tank has been fallowed and no disease introduced since then and no disease has be introduced into the other two tanks as I QT.

 

[Pennywise67]

Ok what brands do you recommend? I will probably go with a little larger than needed ( im guessing you cant go to large in Watts) probably a 40W one or is 25 watt overkill?

 

[Miami Reef]

No UV for me. They are a downgrade for carbon dosing systems IMO.

 

[exnisstech]

No UV for me. They are a downgrade for carbon dosing systems IMO.

Can you explain? Not challenging you at all just trying to gather knowledge.

 

[Miami Reef]

Can you explain? Not challenging you at all just trying to gather knowledge.

I will quote Randy.

I also do not think a UV is very useful for normal reef aquaria, and I think it would be a downgrade in my system to add one. There may be special circumstances where bacterial infections are especially likely (like a sea horse tank) where a UV may be useful, but in my tank, I want to encourage bacterial growth (through organic carbon dosing) and I want the bacteria to remain alive until eaten or exported rather than be killed and spill their guts when they pass through a UV.

 

[exnisstech]

I will quote Randy.

Thank you. Makes perfect sense. I'll admit I got caught up in the hype I was reading about them when I make the purchase. Oh well more stuff to add to the storage shelf lol

 

[Miami Reef]

Thank you. Makes perfect sense. I'll admit I got caught up in the hype I was reading about them when I make the purchase. Oh well more stuff to add to the storage shelf lol

Same. I have this giant 80 watt UV plumbed into my system. It’s off though lol.

 

[Naturalreef]

Is there any research it can help with preventing bad bacteria that cause stn or RTN?

 

[Zero_Cool]

Ok what brands do you recommend? I will probably go with a little larger than needed ( im guessing you cant go to large in Watts) probably a 40W one or is 25 watt overkill?

Aqua UV has been around a ling time with a solid reputation. I bought a 55 watt Lifegard Aquatis Pro-Max 2 weeks ago as I liked the mounting options and the replacable uv shields in the unit. Would have gone 90 watt if I could have fit it in the stand.

Size - depends on what you want to use it for. You mentioned water clarity primary with occasional parasite control. Find one that you can match the higher flow rate needed for algae/clarity as you can always slow the flow down with a proper bypass for parasite. Also make sure it fits in your stand or wherever you plan to plumb it.

This is the info I was provided for the Lifegard Pro-Max:

As I said, I put a 55 on my 230g system and currently run it at 500 gph through a bypass off the return pump back to the DT. Required me to bump up the flow from my return pump about 15% to do so.