Toadstool leather dying

Owenphipps

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 19, 2019
Messages
9
Reaction score
9
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
IMG_20191125_141715.jpg

A couple weeks ago my toadstool leather got little white spots on it and was contracted over a couple days the spits got bigger and thr flesh died and fell away from the main body but the holes got bigger , i cut the infected part away and it has been growing well and has been out fully most of the time. I kept the frags with the infected part for a few more days after i cut them away to see what happened and they completely melted. As you can see in the picture the spots are all in different places so i cant just cut them off this time any suggestions

ps the second picture was just a day before
IMG_20191120_153210.jpg
 
Can you post your water parameters?

Also - holes in toadstool leathers can be a ways to procreate, where a hole will gradually get bigger, until a part falls off. The part that falls off will drift away to another location, to attach to rock where it'll grow. Toadstools are usually VERY hardy, and almost impossible to kill.

How's the flow & lighting in the spot it's at?

Have you had any new additions to your reef recently which could have introduced pests? Are you dosing any chemicals?
 
All my parameters are good, i dont dose anything, flow is on the low end and lighting is moderate
 
Mine has been fraging itself for a few weeks. I think it was caused by an extremely low ALK that I am now correcting or possibly because it's grown a lot and is crammed in a corner of my nano. Now I have about 10+ frags. It started with holes that grew until a piece fell off.
 
Do you maintain iodide in the the 0.03-0.06 range?
Leather, gorgonians need for long term survival and growth.
Shrimps benefit as well, helps them in the molt process.....
 
For a test, I use the salifert.
For iodide I use Seachem.
I have a ton of leathers, quite a few LPS, some SPS, 5 clams, and three gorgonians, two shrimps.
in my 65g, I use 10-15ml per week, I deliver through ATO to spread the dosing out.

I sure you know, but never use iodine, always iodide which is a bit safer form.

none of the tests accurate, yep hear that, but I find it quite easy with the salifert to see a slight color change from clear to just a hint of yellow.

i have been dozing iodide like this for 27 years....
 
So use salifert or sea chem test? I'm not clear. Was thinking of sea chem iodide since they actually explain what it is, should I use their test too? Or do I need to measure both iodine and iodide?
 
Seachem makes some good stuff IMO.
I use Seachem iodide, and measure with Salifert test. Manufacture instructs are great to have as sage start point.
Using Salifert, Your looking at iodide specifically, should be a faint yellow for 0.03 and light yellow for 0.06, there is a noticeable difference at .1 so should not be difficult to keep in range.
After some manual dosing amounts, you see pattern of dosing amounts.
This is when I went with the auto dose. Really simplified the calcification, carbon dose, and trace elements and created great stability in the waters.
 
Leather probably not dying looks fine. They go through stages of pealing sometimes for days. I'm sure in a few days it will be upright and polyps extended. Hang in there!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top