Todays Test

[IntuMarine1G]

Just finished running my param tests and Ill be honest I havent tested my water in some time (I know...I know...) possibly round about 6-8 weeks Im not sure. In tandem with this I havent changed my water a whole lot either due to my LFS being closed (lockdown) and me not having my RODI unit installed. Trying to make what saltwater I had last resulted in 2 water changes the whole of lockdown.

Anyway...besides the fact Im an idiot...I had a quick question.

Everything seems ok. Well actually mostly it is spot on! (I do however only have an API kit so who knows) But my Calcium and DKH seem a bit low. Will a decent water change schedule rectify this? Maybe a few gallons every 2/3 days? I ask as my other params are fine so really the water doesnt need changed as often as that. Normally I do 30% every 2-3 weeks.

Salinty 1.025
PH 8.1
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate <1
Phos 0
Calcium 360
Kh 6

Cheers.

 

[andrewey]

I don't think you're an idiot at all! Some people never test and some people never change their water. I'm not suggesting you do either, but not doing so isn't as bad as you make it out to be. They're just great habits to get ahead of issues and set the average hobbyist up for success This pandemic has hit us all differently- no need to be hard on yourself

The first thing I noticed is that you're using the API kit. Because the resolution is really one drop, we can't say for certain that you have 6 dkh (assuming the test results are accurate). It's very unlikely to be below 6, but it's possible that it's 6.5, as an example.

What is in your tank? Do you have coral or other calcifying animals you bought in the tank right now (clam, feater duster, etc)?

A significant water change will likely increase those levels- small water changes will only have a proportionally small effect on either value.

 

[IntuMarine1G]

I don't think you're an idiot at all! Some people never test and some people never change their water. I'm not suggesting you do either, but not doing so isn't as bad as you make it out to be. They're just great habits to get ahead of issues and set the average hobbyist up for success This pandemic has hit us all differently- no need to be hard on yourself

The first thing I noticed is that you're using the API kit. Because the resolution is really one drop, we can't say for certain that you have 6 dkh (assuming the test results are accurate). It's very unlikely to be below 6, but it's possible that it's 6.5, as an example.

What is in your tank? Do you have coral or other calcifying animals you bought in the tank right now (clam, feater duster, etc)?

A significant water change will likely increase those levels- small water changes will only have a proportionally small effect on either value.

Haha well thanks for being so easy on me I guess! They are trying times indeed.

I have coral in my tank yeah. All small frags. Mostly LPS but I do have 1 Leather and some Birdsnest. No calcifying animals as such clams etc.

The API test kit I know isnt the most reliable but Ive had my water tested on occasion at the shop and its always fine. Would 6/6.5 be so bad? Should I look at raising? And if so how?

 

[andrewey]

As your calcium and alkalinity drop, the calcification rate will similarly drop. The reason I said your alkalinity is unlikely to fall below 6 is that natural calcification has all but stopped at that point. This can have a negative impact on coral health* and is the reason more reefers find success growing corals with levels of calcium or alkalinity closer to NSW or above.

*However, I don't know when any negative consequences (beyond slower growth) are likely to present in your case. It's possible that limited exposure to these levels gradually will have little effect. I would be more worried if you had coral that were growing with 440 calcium and 10dkh where you suddenly stopped any dosing/WC and the levels fell quickly. In a perfect world, you would increase those levels slowly either via water changes or via dosing. However, I'm not saying increasing the levels is mandatory right now- you might just be able to skate buy at these levels for a bit and slowly bring them back once you are able to procure more salt and water. I simply don't know, but I don't want to suggest this is an emergency. So long as any changes you make are slow and deliberate, I don't think you're likely to go wrong.

 

[IntuMarine1G]

Ok that all makes sense. I will start with small water changes and see how it goes from there. If I need to start dosing further down the line I can look into it then. They are still all frags haha.

Thanks for taking the time to respond

 

[andrewey]

Absolutely! Most reefers don't need to start dosing until their tank is a bit older- you can likely get away with water changes for longer than you would imagine. Your levels will dictate when water changes alone aren't keeping up.

 

[IntuMarine1G]

Absolutely! Most reefers don't need to start dosing until their tank is a bit older- you can likely get away with water changes for longer than you would imagine. Your levels will dictate when water changes alone aren't keeping up.

I still use store water but I do have a RODI to install and a big ol' bucket of Red Sea salt sitting. That would at least give me some insight to what Im actually putting in the tank I guess. No idea what salt the store use.

 

[andrewey]

Red Sea is fine Unless advertised, most LFS saltwater is either instant ocean or reef crystals because of the cost. Installing your RODI would be a fun covid project!

 

[MnFish1]

I don't think you're an idiot at all! Some people never test and some people never change their water. I'm not suggesting you do either, but not doing so isn't as bad as you make it out to be. They're just great habits to get ahead of issues and set the average hobbyist up for success This pandemic has hit us all differently- no need to be hard on yourself

The first thing I noticed is that you're using the API kit. Because the resolution is really one drop, we can't say for certain that you have 6 dkh (assuming the test results are accurate). It's very unlikely to be below 6, but it's possible that it's 6.5, as an example.

What is in your tank? Do you have coral or other calcifying animals you bought in the tank right now (clam, feater duster, etc)?

A significant water change will likely increase those levels- small water changes will only have a proportionally small effect on either value.

I am not a big believer in 'testing' unless I see a problem. And I just change water - perhaps 30-40% every 2-3 weeks - whether 'right' or 'wrong' - thats how I do it. My problem with testing always came down to - if the test was 'off' - how do I know its right - leading to repeat tests. Stability to me is the key - and barring some disaster (which would provoke testing) - if nothing is wrong - there is nothing to suggest that a test is useful. Likewise - I dont use ICP tests - I was curious to do it - then saw all the problems - If a heater broke - for 3 months that I didnt notice - maybe I would - but as a routine - no. I considered buying a trident - then thought - why? Its a gadget - though people swear by them - the likelihood that an all change from 8 to 7.3 - over a weeks time is extremely unlikely to affect coral - made me decide against it. I know this is heresy. Just how I do things. My tank - Mostly SPS. growing well, some softies, and a low bio load of fish (including 3 tangs - that get along fine) - 2 yellow and 1 purple. and a harlequin tusk. Who knows whether this is 'right' or 'wrong' - IDK - I find the more I test the more I fiddle - and the more I fiddle - the more problems I have

 

[IntuMarine1G]

Red Sea is fine Unless advertised, most LFS saltwater is either instant ocean or reef crystals because of the cost. Installing your RODI would be a fun covid project!

I literally have no clue what to do. Ive read the booklet 3 times. Not a clue. Haha

 

[andrewey]

There are some great videos out there on youtube where they walk you through the steps- similarly BRS has a great series on putting together the RODI. If those don't work, I'd be more than happy to help if you can describe your issues or ideally, have pictures of the issues you are running into.

 

[IntuMarine1G]

There are some great videos out there on youtube where they walk you through the steps- similarly BRS has a great series on putting together the RODI. If those don't work, I'd be more than happy to help if you can describe your issues or ideally, have pictures of the issues you are running into.

Well the main issue is my lack of plumbing knowledge haha. It comes with a self tapping valve that goes on the cold water supply which seems straight forward enough but the pipes are earthed. They have a yellow electrical tag and I have no clue what that means?

 

[andrewey]

I can try and walk you through the self tapping valve, but before we go down that route, have you considered alternative hookups? For example, they make pretty cheap adapters that allow you to connect your RO to your faucet, spigot, or similar devices. There are even more ways to hook it up including splitters, but if you don't feel comfortable with the self tapping valve, it's not the only way of skinning this cat!

 

[IntuMarine1G]

I can try and walk you through the self tapping valve, but before we go down that route, have you considered alternative hookups? For example, they make pretty cheap adapters that allow you to connect your RO to your faucet, spigot, or similar devices. There are even more ways to hook it up including splitters, but if you don't feel comfortable with the self tapping valve, it's not the only way of skinning this cat!

I hadnt thought of that actually no. Ill check out my taps and see what type of fitting it is! That would probably be better as I could put it away between uses. I have a question about the set up of it but I would need to post a picture for it to make sense haha

 

[andrewey]

Here's a quick link to some (but not all) of the various adapters you could use to hook up your RODI- that might help with inspiration:

Reefing Trends - Bulk Reef Supply

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

aquarium.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Just finished running my param tests and Ill be honest I havent tested my water in some time (I know...I know...) possibly round about 6-8 weeks Im not sure. In tandem with this I havent changed my water a whole lot either due to my LFS being closed (lockdown) and me not having my RODI unit installed. Trying to make what saltwater I had last resulted in 2 water changes the whole of lockdown.

Anyway...besides the fact Im an idiot...I had a quick question.

Everything seems ok. Well actually mostly it is spot on! (I do however only have an API kit so who knows) But my Calcium and DKH seem a bit low. Will a decent water change schedule rectify this? Maybe a few gallons every 2/3 days? I ask as my other params are fine so really the water doesnt need changed as often as that. Normally I do 30% every 2-3 weeks.

Salinty 1.025
PH 8.1
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate <1
Phos 0
Calcium 360
Kh 6

Cheers.

I notice your phosphates are 0 and nitrate 1 or less. Isn’t this an issue ? I’m finally learning about this stuff and I beleive you need some phosphates and nitrates for the corals

 

[andrewey]

In theory yes, however I wouldn't put too much weight on those results. For example, if you take a look at the API phosphate card, you'll see the resolution is pretty large and more importantly, distingusigng 0.25 from 0 is incredibly difficult in practice. Therefore, I would equally accept that the OP's phosphates were just as likely to be 0 as they were to be 0.2 from a "0" reading alone. I'm more inclined to believe they are slightly higher than true 0. The same would be true of the API nitrate, but for slightly different reasons.

 

[IntuMarine1G]

I notice your phosphates are 0 and nitrate 1 or less. Isn’t this an issue ? I’m finally learning about this stuff and I beleive you need some phosphates and nitrates for the corals

Yeah I suppose you are correct but I use an API test kit that is notorious for being out. Not by a whole lot. But its not totally accurate. So im fine with those readings.