Tons of algae?

ohio reefer

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 4, 2013
Messages
1,524
Reaction score
21
Location
Columbus Ohio
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I've had this tank for years and have always kept the parameters near perfect. I recently decided to make this a reef and upgraded from 2 15 watt t8 no reflectors to a 4 bulb 54 watt t5 individual reflectors. The algae is insane and what will stop it? It's green and comes off the glass easily but the water stays a dirty green tint. Any suggestions?
ImageUploadedByReef2Reef Aquarium Forum1367443553.999391.jpg
ImageUploadedByReef2Reef Aquarium Forum1367443561.749789.jpg



Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
 
I have a hang on back rated for 90 on the 55 worked great up until he rock and. Lights


Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
 
If you are using a hob filter get rid of the pads. Only use it for carbon or phosphate reducing media. Also if you don't have a skimmer you need one. Most algae problems are caused by excess nutrients either by overfeeding of fish or coral foods. Phosphates can also cause it. What water do you use on your tank?
 
Welllll..........Yes on the live rock. You can try adding blue filter pads. It will help clear the water but will not get rid of the green. You should not be trying to cure live rock in your live tank silly!!!!
Honestly, I would take it out before the Nitrate and Phosphate level kills your fish. Do a water change.
There others here that can help you set up a bin to cure your rock. My Reef is so old I have not had to do that in many years.
 
Welllll..........Yes on the live rock. You can try adding blue filter pads. It will help clear the water but will not get rid of the green. You should not be trying to cure live rock in your live tank silly!!!!
Honestly, I would take it out before the Nitrate and Phosphate level kills your fish. Do a water change.
There others here that can help you set up a bin to cure your rock. My Reef is so old I have not had to do that in many years.

I bought it and the owner claimed t was cured and ready to be placed in the tank. I will be taking it out shortly


Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
 
Quick update- those were my sisters pictures and I have not see. It in person, I was away for 2 days and she sent me a picture of the tanks, she also didn't turn off the lights for two days :( in person it took me 5 mins to clean and it's just the algae that grows after tons of light. She sent me a pic of my sebae last night all closes and deflated and said its dead and it really freaked me out, I posted threads and everything I was so sad, he was just expelling waste
Here's the tank now and the sebae
ImageUploadedByReef2Reef Aquarium Forum1367455818.570608.jpg
ImageUploadedByReef2Reef Aquarium Forum1367455827.055331.jpg
ImageUploadedByReef2Reef Aquarium Forum1367455835.671633.jpg



Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
 
She probaly dumped alot of groceries in there also. lol
 
Last edited:
Also, I don't see any water movement. Looks like dead water also. In a Reef you should be looking at 20x your water volume in turn over. You just running a mechanical filter as flow?
 
I have two powerheads that are mixing salt at the moment and the filter is off at the moment, the only way my new wrasse gets food is if the waters calm, he's still very shy and is reluctant to come out typically


Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
 
Ones back on, and I'm buying a new one tommorow, how much gph should I look for?


Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
 
Don't know your tank size, but 20x your water volume. So if yoiu have a 55g tank your looking at 1100gph or 2 power heads rated at 500-600gph each.
 
Could it be that I added 30 pounds of florida dry rock and it's curing?


Sent Via the R2R Forum APP

Are you using RO/DI water? If so, what is the TDS?

That rock is most liking leaching phosphates and the like, causing both your algae issues and the issue with your anemone.
That rock really needs to be soaked to remove all the organics and stored phosphates -- from what usually happens with this rock you are going to have issues for a month or 2.
 
Agreed on the flow, you need to get that water moving, best thing to do IMO in addition to the PH's is add a sump with a return pump, that will definitely help. Also, I know opinions differ on this but I think your fine with the HOB as is, just make sure you rinse it weekly & change it no less frequently than every 3 weeks.
 
Agreed on the flow, you need to get that water moving, best thing to do IMO in addition to the PH's is add a sump with a return pump, that will definitely help. Also, I know opinions differ on this but I think your fine with the HOB as is, just make sure you rinse it weekly & change it no less frequently than every 3 weeks.




Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
 
I change the filter pads every two weeks


Sent Via the R2R Forum APP

I would remove all filter pads that catch debris. They tend to raise nitrate. Increase flow like others suggest. If your water is still green, find someone with a UV sterilizer that you can barrow and run that for a few days. Green water is common when ramping up lighting and a UV will fix that quickly. I would also run some GFO in your filter to help with the phosphates.


Brent \><{{{{*>
Sent Via the R2R Forum APP
 
Honestly, I really beleive it is that rock that you just put in, it is loaded with orangics and phosphates.
While flow is a good thing, it won't remove all the orangics that are coming out of those rocks.

Also, are you using RO/DI water? If so, what is the TDS?

Fix the root of the algae issues and it will go away.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top