Tools for working with acrylic?

thejuggernaut · Feb 3, 2014

I have been wanting to get into some basic DIY acrylic stuff. I understand that the tolerances and preparation is paramount in getting a good, strong joint. It seems most people use a router set but I rarely see photos or description of their router table setups. I don't want to spend thousands of dollars on router setup for doing a few DIY projects but a decent middle of the road table would be nice. Any suggestions from our resident acrylic gurus on equipment setups and/or your workflow on getting true and straight edges.

Regards,
Taylor

Jimbo662 · Feb 3, 2014

Same here Taylor...I actually looked online yesterday for something that wasn't too large but too many options.

James

RacinRevo0818 · Feb 3, 2014

Here is a start!
http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/routing.html

thejuggernaut · Feb 3, 2014

Yea,
I have been reading some woodworking pages and it seems this one would be a good place to start. Has all the basics and the fence allows for offsets so you dial in exactly how much material you take off while cleaning up edges.

Rockler High Pressure Laminate Router Table, Fence, Plate, & Stand-Router Table Packages - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Regards,
Taylor

JPG@CFI · Feb 4, 2014

On Mel' site, he only shows flush trimming. You do not need a router table to plunge into acrylic fabrication. You do need a strait edge of some kind. MDF, aluminum, acrylic, something along those lines. It needs to be strait, and long enough to do whatever you think you will need. 25" is a good starting point. You will need a good router. I started 20+ years ago with my dads unused Craftsman router from Christmas in 1979. Too much runout on the shaft. Dewalt, Porter Cable, and Bosch all make nice routers, and have very little runout, shoot for at least 1.75HP with 2hp + better. Next you will need a router bit. Whiteside make very nice router bits, and use a 1/2" shank. 1/4" shanks will flex excessively under load. You can use a top bearing, or a bottom bearing. I use a bushing with a 1/2" shank and a 3/8" spiral downcut bit. I put my strait edge on top of my work piece, and shoot for removing 1/32, moving my 3 1/4 hp Porter Cable plunge router that turns at 22,000 rpm's at about 1" per 3 seconds or so. In my shop I have 15 routers and only change bits when they need resharpening. I have a back up set of carbide ready if that needs to happen sooner than expected. Try some practice cuts and see what happens. Tell us how it goes, J

thejuggernaut · Feb 5, 2014

Thanks for in info. I think my first step is to get a decent blade for my tablesaw and a good bit for my router and see what I can do.

Regards,
Taylor

JPG@CFI · Feb 5, 2014

thejuggernaut said:
Thanks for in info. I think my first step is to get a decent blade for my tablesaw and a good bit for my router and see what I can do.

Regards,
Taylor

I would buy a Triple Chip Grind ATB blade. You can spend some cash very easily. One tip, call around and see who does re-sharpening. Some of the bigger places will probably have blades that will be perfect, that someone left for longer than 90 or 120 days. I bought 4 Systimatic blades when they were local to me over 12 years ago. I have had them re-sharpened many, many, many times, with plenty of carbide left. Also try EBay, look for at least 60 teeth, but would prefer 80.
I buy my router bits when I plan on it from Routerbits.com.
Router tables are nice for a shop, but not a required. Best of luck,J

thejuggernaut · Feb 5, 2014

Thanks for the info. Ya'll have given me a good jumping off point. Now I just need to get me a work space and order a few thing. I have nice 3/4 inch sheet of ply that I think I'm going to make a nice assembly table out of first. Have absolutely no table space in my garage right now!

Regards,
Taylor

TJ's Reef · Feb 6, 2014

Some great information/advice from Jason (JPG@CFI) above and have picked up tips from him over past few years adding to my working knowledge of Acrylic fabrication.

Cheers, Todd

thejuggernaut · Feb 7, 2014

Impressive builds. I was looking at your table in the photos. Does the carpet make the assembly easier? I'm going to build me a decent work table this weekend and was wondering what the advantages of the carpet are.

Regards,
Taylor

Themonsterisme · Feb 8, 2014

I believe they use carpet so to not scratch the acrylic while working on it

JPG@CFI · Feb 9, 2014

thejuggernaut said:
Impressive builds. I was looking at your table in the photos. Does the carpet make the assembly easier? I'm going to build me a decent work table this weekend and was wondering what the advantages of the carpet are.

Regards,
Taylor

Taylor,

I have carpet on the tables, and floor so I can throw the tanks around easier. They don't slide around, and it will not scratch the acrylic. You learn a few tricks when your a 1 man show, (most of the time). I have built some pretty large tanks by myself, 450 gal comes to mind.
Here is a pic of one of the router tables I built, ad a few work horses on staff at CFI.

thejuggernaut · Feb 9, 2014

That router table is epic. What do you use as a fence to clean up the edges? It looks like you purchased three plates and inlayed them in a large piece of MDF. Do you use three routers so that you don't have to change bits? You need to move to Texas so I can come by and learn some tips from the master!

Regards,
Taylor

thejuggernaut · Feb 9, 2014

BTW, Looked at your builds on Reef frontiers. You definitely take pride in your products, and it shows in the fit and finish.

JPG@CFI · Feb 10, 2014

thejuggernaut said:
That router table is epic. What do you use as a fence to clean up the edges? It looks like you purchased three plates and inlayed them in a large piece of MDF. Do you use three routers so that you don't have to change bits? You need to move to Texas so I can come by and learn some tips from the master!

Regards,
Taylor

Taylor,

Thanks for he kind words!
I don't use any fence on my triple router table. There are bearings on top of each bit. I only change out bits when they need a sharpening. I rabbit, chamfer and flush trim on that table. My other router table I use mainly for machining teeth in my OFB's, or overflow box panels. If your ever up in the Seattle area, give me a call, I'll put you to work! J

thejuggernaut · Feb 10, 2014

LOL, sounds good! Wanted to start getting the garage cleaned out and a decent work area setup, but it seems like every time I get a day to myself, the weather I horrible. Beautiful all week while I'm stuck at the office, but crappy on days that I could go outside on.

KoleTang · Feb 10, 2014

Jason, where can I find info on ratio of acrylic thickness to tank size, and how to avoid warping, bowing, and crazing?

What is the range of temp and humidity for working with and bonding acrylic?

How does the hearing replace a fence if the entire blade of the bit needs to be cutting the side of the acrylic? Ie., what is the bearing being pushed against?

JPG@CFI · Feb 10, 2014

Kole,
As far as thickness, post what your looking to build, and I'll give you my .02.
I don't do any bonding if it is below 60F and above 80F. I can mix my solvent to do it, but I try to avoid it.
The bearing rides on the acrylic. I have patterns for all kinds of things. The last one I used was for a 7" filter sock with plastic ring. MDF is the material of choice. Flush trimming and patterns you just use a spiral down cut with bearings. As far as edge prep, I use a bushing that rides on a strait edge. So no bottom bearings. Feel free to email me directly if you need more info. Jason

Jlobes · Feb 10, 2014

this is a great thread, been doing a bit of acrylic work and wanting to do more. jason you are the man for dishing out so much great info. and you do some amazing/quality work. Only looked at a bit, but im gonna check out a bunch more. heck, id come up to seattle, just so you could put me to work!!

thejuggernaut · Feb 12, 2014

I've gotten a decent space in my garage cleaned out and have been doing a little research on DIY router tables. I'm going to make mine out of two 3/4" MDF sheets. Layered together for added rigidity. As well as a DIY table fence. I plan on using a Porter-Cable 690LR as my router and maybe upgrading to lift later for convenience. (Might do some wood working stuff with the setup as well, so a lift would be handy.) I have been calling some local plastics distributors in Houston and the best prices I've been able to find on a sheets of Plexiglass G are:

1/4" $155
3/8" $240
1/2" $245

Do these prices seem right? What would be your recommendations for finding a decent dealer that will give good prices. I don't expect wholesale but don't plan on paying retail either.

Regards,
Taylor