Torch coral issues -

[BanjoBandito]

I went overboard with this highlighter torch in direct flow and appear to have BLASTED a head off it. Is that head toast or can I salvage it?

 

[JaimeAdams]

I've seen worse recover. Most likely that head will just drop off, but if you take the colony and leave it in lower flow it is certainly possible for it it to fully recover.

 

[BanjoBandito]

I've seen worse recover. Most likely that head will just drop off, but if you take the colony and leave it in lower flow it is certainly possible for it it to fully recover.

You think I should dip it? If it drops this head wanna trim it for me?

 

[Dav2996]

I would put in low flow and feed it more to help it recover as long as the parameters are stable. I had almost lost hammer and torch before. Feeding reef roids or AB+ brought them back.

 

[Dav2996]

I went overboard with this highlighter torch in direct flow and appear to have BLASTED a head off it. Is that head toast or can I salvage it?

Do you see any flat worms on them? Sometimes that kills them.

 

[BanjoBandito]

Do you see any flat worms on them? Sometimes that kills them.

Nah it was totally flow. I shoulda known better. It was in the direct line of flow from my gyre.

 

[Dav2996]

Nah it was totally flow. I shoulda known better. It was in the direct line of flow from my gyre.

Good AB+ and reef Roids increase growth by 20% so if you feed them they will get back to their old size faster.

 

[vetteguy53081]

You think I should dip it? If it drops this head wanna trim it for me?

Dont dip - already stressed.
A/B and roids not much of a meal for them. Feed Mysis and brine shrimp.
Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
The hammer coral is considered to be an aggressive coral species that will attack its neighbors with sweeper tentacles. These are stinging nematocysts (similar to the sting of an anemone) on the end of a specialized polyp that can extend several inches away from the body of the coral. The sweeper tentacles pack a punch and will chemically burn any neighboring corals.

 

[BanjoBandito]

Dont- already stressed.

Yeah, that's what I figured. I've got it on my rack under my gyre so it's getting "light" up draft flow for awhile. We will see what happens. I think if it's gonna go it'll go pretty quick.