Torch receding

lamjiasheng

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I have 2 torch coral, 1 is doing great while the other one seems bleached out and receded.
Initially thought it was due to low Mg, however when I raise it to 1450 the torch is still receded.
With the fact that only 1 torch receded and the other 1 doing I great I suspect its a problem of the torch itself like infection etc and not the water parameter.
dKH: 9
Ca: 340 (May seem low but other torch is doing well)
Mg: 1450

How should I approach it

1686986267511.png
1686986307025.png

The one with multiple head is receding
 
Whats the rest of your parameters? Calcium is too low for sure. Just because the other is doing fine it doesn't mean that tomorrow or in a week it wont be in the same boat.
Should be around
Salinity 1.025
PH 8 - 8.3
DKH of 8 - 9 a little higher wont hurt but lower will
Cal 430 - 450
Mag 1350 to 1400
Nitrate - 5 to 10 ppm
Nitrite 0
Phosphate .01 - .05
Obviously ammonia at zero but if you have torches I assume your tank has been up and running at least 6 months. A year would be more ideal. You feel you can be finicky, but once you have it dialed they just take off. How long has your tank been running?
 
Whats the rest of your parameters? Calcium is too low for sure. Just because the other is doing fine it doesn't mean that tomorrow or in a week it wont be in the same boat.
Should be around
Salinity 1.025
PH 8 - 8.3
DKH of 8 - 9 a little higher wont hurt but lower will
Cal 430 - 450
Mag 1350 to 1400
Nitrate - 5 to 10 ppm
Nitrite 0
Phosphate .01 - .05
Obviously ammonia at zero but if you have torches I assume your tank has been up and running at least 6 months. A year would be more ideal. You feel you can be finicky, but once you have it dialed they just take off. How long has your tank been running?
Its a small 25g tank with canister filter, 4 months old without protein skimmer.
2 clown 2 damsel 2 torch 1 pulsing Xenia, few zoa

I'm using API to test nitrate and phosphate. I can only eye ball the colour so it's impossible to dial down to 5ppm NO3 and 0.05 PO4. Hanna checker is too expensive and I can't find Red Sea or Aquaforest test kit at my place.

Eye balling NO3 at 40 and phosphate 0.25, I know it's crazy high because of the canister filter so I recently change the filter media to Sachem matrix, phosguard and purigen. And stop dosing 0.5 ml of Red Sea no pox after 1 day of use because thinking I should go slow and see how the tank goes with the new filter media.

Guess it'll take some time before I can see the result with the new filter media.

Added both torch at 2nd month and the receding started 2 weeks ago.
 
Its a small 25g tank with canister filter, 4 months old without protein skimmer.
2 clown 2 damsel 2 torch 1 pulsing Xenia, few zoa

I'm using API to test nitrate and phosphate. I can only eye ball the colour so it's impossible to dial down to 5ppm NO3 and 0.05 PO4. Hanna checker is too expensive and I can't find Red Sea or Aquaforest test kit at my place.

Eye balling NO3 at 40 and phosphate 0.25, I know it's crazy high because of the canister filter so I recently change the filter media to Sachem matrix, phosguard and purigen. And stop dosing 0.5 ml of Red Sea no pox after 1 day of use because thinking I should go slow and see how the tank goes with the new filter media.

Guess it'll take some time before I can see the result with the new filter media.

Added both torch at 2nd month and the receding started 2 weeks ago.
Reading at what I've done. feeling I'm setting up failure for myself
 
Reading at what I've done. feeling I'm setting up failure for myself
I have seen successful tanks set up in any number of ways. AIO, Sump, Canister filter, or even just a box of saltwater with only powerheads. It's all about finding the balance in you're system regardless of what equipment you are running.

Want to keep the canister filter but dealing with nutrients, have less fish and feed less or do more waterchanges.

An keep stable parameters and don't worry about the different stages you're tank will go through. Just enjoy the journey!
 

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