Torch regression

[Cryptocaryon]

Hi all,

Just another torch ressesion post.

I have a feeling the smaller head is gonner but I'm going to track its progress. Current po4 0.02 so feed a tad of reefroids directly to the torch (which i normally do one a week) and some mysis (which I never do)

I've put it in a lower light a flow area, and taken out the carbon

Current no3 is at 10ppm

Salinity was a little high at 36ppt so brought that down to 35

All other parameters are in a normal range

I did a 25min iodine dip as a precation

Let's see how this pans out, but a fear the worse

 

[Cryptocaryon]

Hi all,

Just another torch ressesion post.

I have a feeling the smaller head is gonner but I'm going to track its progress. Current po4 0.02 so feed a tad of reefroids directly to the torch (which i normally do one a week) and some mysis (which I never do)

I've put it in a lower light a flow area, and taken out the carbon

Current no3 is at 10ppm

Salinity was a little high at 36ppt so brought that down to 35

All other parameters are in a normal range

I did a 25min iodine dip as a precation

Let's see how this pans out, but a fear the worse

 

[ADAM]

Hi all,

Just another torch ressesion post.

I have a feeling the smaller head is gonner but I'm going to track its progress. Current po4 0.02 so feed a tad of reefroids directly to the torch (which i normally do one a week) and some mysis (which I never do)

I've put it in a lower light a flow area, and taken out the carbon

Current no3 is at 10ppm

Salinity was a little high at 36ppt so brought that down to 35

All other parameters are in a normal range

I did a 25min iodine dip as a precation

Let's see how this pans out, but a fear the worse

Watch direct feeding torches (and other corals) as they will take in more than they can process and cause internal issues but the food potentially sticking to the flesh can cause burns if breaking down rapidly.

Unless there’s a reason behind keeping the PO4 that low you didn’t mention I would personally bump it up to give you some “wiggle room”. For most euphyllia growers I find most say that 0.1 PO4 and 10-20 NO3 is where they like to keep their nutrients to get the best growth and color.

Have you sent in an ICP recently? After nutrients I tend to think metals may be present when everything else seems stable and within normal ranges and recession of flesh appears. If you haven’t you could always apply some Cuprisorb (or similar) for a few days to see if there’s an overall improvement in health. If it’s metals, you will generally notice a visible difference in just 24-48 hours of application.

After metals you get into trace element deficiencies like Potassium, Iodine, and maybe even Manganese but those are normally accounted for in most 2 part calcium/ALK mixes and/or regular water changes.

I have a torch dominant system and can say they do not appear nearly as happy when I use carbon for extended periods. If the water looks hazy I will add some for 1-2 days but remove promptly once the water clarity is back to normal.

Happy Reefing!

 

[Cryptocaryon]

Watch direct feeding torches (and other corals) as they will take in more than they can process and cause internal issues but the food potentially sticking to the flesh can cause burns if breaking down rapidly.

Unless there’s a reason behind keeping the PO4 that low you didn’t mention I would personally bump it up to give you some “wiggle room”. For most euphyllia growers I find most say that 0.1 PO4 and 10-20 NO3 is where they like to keep their nutrients to get the best growth and color.

Have you sent in an ICP recently? After nutrients I tend to think metals may be present when everything else seems stable and within normal ranges and recession of flesh appears. If you haven’t you could always apply some Cuprisorb (or similar) for a few days to see if there’s an overall improvement in health. If it’s metals, you will generally notice a visible difference in just 24-48 hours of application.

After metals you get into trace element deficiencies like Potassium, Iodine, and maybe even Manganese but those are normally accounted for in most 2 part calcium/ALK mixes and/or regular water changes.

I have a torch dominant system and can say they do not appear nearly as happy when I use carbon for extended periods. If the water looks hazy I will add some for 1-2 days but remove promptly once the water clarity is back to normal.

Happy Reefing!

Good advice, ill send and icp test and buy some cuprisorb as a precaution while I await the results. I tend to keep po4 around 0.03 as I have a mixed reef tricky trying to keep everything happy.

Thanks again for the solid advice.

 

[Cryptocaryon]

I've done another 25min lugols dip today, I added coral rx to the mix 10 mins before the end. I added a bag of cuprisorb yesterday. I will send icp tomorrow. I've removed carbon completely and stopped supplement feedings

Currently water chem sits at

Po4 0.07
No3 10
Kh 8.6
Ca 420 - added more to reach target of 450
Mg 1330 - added more to reach target of 1350 (may push this further as I hear it benefits LPS) ill shoot for 1400

 

[madlos123]

They are looking good to me in my opinion. Just let it be in that new spot where its lower light. Sometimes torches can be a hit or miss and shrink when newly introduced in a new tank. By the looks of the tips it might have been overly exposed by too much light too fast in my experience. They definitely like a little elevated phosphate and nitrate. Also see what the result from the ICP and act from there.

Heres my receipt. Looks like we have the same torch? Or looks like you have a some gold there

Newer vid
Older vid 3 month ago.

 

[Cryptocaryon]

They are looking good to me in my opinion. Just let it be in that new spot where its lower light. Sometimes torches can be a hit or miss and shrink when newly introduced in a new tank. By the looks of the tips it might have been overly exposed by too much light too fast in my experience. They definitely like a little elevated phosphate and nitrate. Also see what the result from the ICP and act from there.

Heres my receipt. Looks like we have the same torch? Or looks like you have a some gold there

Newer vid
Older vid 3 month ago.

Hey, I would agree it doesn't look bad, however this is not a newly introduced torch (Dragon soul) I've already lost a head from BJD and managed to save the other head so I'm taking no risks here, I would rather be proactive rather than risk further infections.

I've got a bunch of theories why the torch may have got ticked off, im just working through the list. Problem is, if it recovers ill never know which thing I did helped.

 

[PeterC99]

Hey, I would agree it doesn't look bad, however this is not a newly introduced torch (Dragon soul) I've already lost a head from BJD and managed to save the other head so I'm taking no risks here, I would rather be proactive rather than risk further infections.

I've got a bunch of theories why the torch may have got ticked off, im just working through the list. Problem is, if it recovers ill never know which thing I did helped.

When my torches don’t look “right” (which is something you learn over time from observation) I dip them in Dr G’s reef dip. Have had good success.

 

[Cryptocaryon]

When my torches don’t look “right” (which is something you learn over time from observation) I dip them in Dr G’s reef dip. Have had good success.

 

[Cryptocaryon]

I'm based in the UK, I've not heard of this dip and likely not available to me. This might be a good data point for somebody though.

I feel the coral rx and iodine solution is helping so I'm not convinced any other type of dip would improve my chances here. Unless this new dip is drastically different to all the others out there?

Good husbandry, careful observation and patience is my best course of action here, and probably what saved your torches rather that the dip.

Cheers-

 

[wiggitywade]

Watch direct feeding torches (and other corals) as they will take in more than they can process and cause internal issues but the food potentially sticking to the flesh can cause burns if breaking down rapidly.

Unless there’s a reason behind keeping the PO4 that low you didn’t mention I would personally bump it up to give you some “wiggle room”. For most euphyllia growers I find most say that 0.1 PO4 and 10-20 NO3 is where they like to keep their nutrients to get the best growth and color.

Have you sent in an ICP recently? After nutrients I tend to think metals may be present when everything else seems stable and within normal ranges and recession of flesh appears. If you haven’t you could always apply some Cuprisorb (or similar) for a few days to see if there’s an overall improvement in health. If it’s metals, you will generally notice a visible difference in just 24-48 hours of application.

After metals you get into trace element deficiencies like Potassium, Iodine, and maybe even Manganese but those are normally accounted for in most 2 part calcium/ALK mixes and/or regular water changes.

I have a torch dominant system and can say they do not appear nearly as happy when I use carbon for extended periods. If the water looks hazy I will add some for 1-2 days but remove promptly once the water clarity is back to normal.

Happy Reefing!

I'm jealous of your torch dominant tank! I'm in a similar spot as the OP with some unhappy torches in my tank. You mention 10-20NO3 as a good nutrient level. My tank was testing at 0 for a while so I started dosing NeoNitro and have had NO3 between 1-2. In your opinion could low NO3 be an issue to lose torches?

Attached my similar post for more info if it is helpful. Thanks for any help!

All Euphyllia looking bad

All of my Euphyllia is looking pretty bad. I have 2 torches, 1 hammer, and 1 frogspawn that are all slowly but consistently deteriorating and I'm not sure why. (Ricordea are also struggling). Tank is 6 months old and I just went 3-4 weeks without a water change to deal with heavy dinos that are...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[wiggitywade]

I've done another 25min lugols dip today, I added coral rx to the mix 10 mins before the end. I added a bag of cuprisorb yesterday. I will send icp tomorrow. I've removed carbon completely and stopped supplement feedings

Currently water chem sits at

Po4 0.07
No3 10
Kh 8.6
Ca 420 - added more to reach target of 450
Mg 1330 - added more to reach target of 1350 (may push this further as I hear it benefits LPS) ill shoot for 1400

I'm fairly new and haven't had the best luck with torches but I've heard/read 10-15min for dips max. Could be irritated from the iodine

 

[ADAM]

I'm jealous of your torch dominant tank! I'm in a similar spot as the OP with some unhappy torches in my tank. You mention 10-20NO3 as a good nutrient level. My tank was testing at 0 for a while so I started dosing NeoNitro and have had NO3 between 1-2. In your opinion could low NO3 be an issue to lose torches?

Attached my similar post for more info if it is helpful. Thanks for any help!

All Euphyllia looking bad

All of my Euphyllia is looking pretty bad. I have 2 torches, 1 hammer, and 1 frogspawn that are all slowly but consistently deteriorating and I'm not sure why. (Ricordea are also struggling). Tank is 6 months old and I just went 3-4 weeks without a water change to deal with heavy dinos that are...

www.reef2reef.com

Possible, but not that the water is too clean. It’s believed corals use NO3 similar to sunscreen and the lighting is likely what’s really bothering them. If your levels just naturally sit on the lower end of the scale you may try reducing your lighting a bit and see if that makes a difference. If it were me I wouldn’t want to go below 5-NO3.



** “0” PO4 and/or NO3 can have some really nasty effects on your entire system I’d be diligent about keeping them high enough to give you some kind of reading on a test kit.

Timing of dips should be based on what you’re using. Follow directions for mixing amounts (or lower) per instructions, using more more can damage the coralI very quickly. I will proactively dip in a very lightly mixed iodine and tank water mixture whenever something looks strange versus waiting to see if it gets worse. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. But I’ve never dipped for longer than 15 minutes in any dip. Usually 5-10 minutes max for me. Light iodine proactive dips are usually swirled and left to sit for 5 max.

 

[PNWReefer21]

The torch looks good to me

 

[Cryptocaryon]

So after doing icp results pretty much all my trace is at 0, im doing water changes to try get them back in check. Torch still looks like its on the way out, I've moved it back onto a higher flow and light area as low flow and light didn't seem to help, im just waiting for the head to start meltingvthen I'll cut it off.

 

[Cryptocaryon]

So after doing icp results pretty much all my trace is at 0, im doing water changes to try get them back in check. Torch still looks like its on the way out, I've moved it back onto a higher flow and light area as low flow and light didn't seem to help, im just waiting for the head to start meltingvthen I'll cut it off.

Hg 0
Se 0
Cd 0
Sn 0
Sb 0
As 0
Ai 1.3
Pb 0
Ti 0
Cu 0
La 0
Sc 0
W 0
Na 10817
Ca 450
Mg 1418
K 412
Br 72 (elevated)
B 3.912
Sr 6.008
S 912
Li 185
Ni 0
Mo 6.22
V 0
Zn 1.747
Mn 0
I 0
Cr 0
Co 0
FE 0
Ba 9.995
Be 0
Si 197
P 8
P04 0.02448

 

[Cryptocaryon]

Hg 0
Se 0
Cd 0
Sn 0
Sb 0
As 0
Ai 1.3
Pb 0
Ti 0
Cu 0
La 0
Sc 0
W 0
Na 10817
Ca 450
Mg 1418
K 412
Br 72 (elevated)
B 3.912
Sr 6.008
S 912
Li 185
Ni 0
Mo 6.22
V 0
Zn 1.747
Mn 0
I 0
Cr 0
Co 0
FE 0
Ba 9.995
Be 0
Si 197
P 8
P04 0.02448

 

[Cryptocaryon]

Head has now been removed after seeing it starts to melt so ultimately couldn't save the head.

Case closed.