Torch Trouble

Ricky J · Mar 28, 2022

Hey everyone, looking for a little advice in improving the health on one indo torch of mine. Information on my setup - new Waterbox 110 is only 3.5 months old I’d say and in the uglier stage for sure. Been combatting hair algae and removing what I can by hand. I have other Euphellia’s in as well all doing great to include 6 hammers, 1 frog and another indo torch. Salinity- 1.025
Ammonia- 0
Nitrates- 0 likely due to the algae growth
Phos- .01
Ph- 8.2
Have not tested Alk, Ca etc due to how young the tank is. Salt that I’m using is the TM Pro Reef (German batch) with weekly 10% wc’s. Had the torch for one month, I’ll share some photos and video but the one torch isn’t looking very good.

JaimeAdams · Mar 28, 2022

It does not have much of a flesh band. IT probably was not in the best of health to begin with. I can't say how much fluctuations you have in your water chemistry since you don't test, but torches are sensitive to fluctuations in alkalinity.

Wolf89 · Mar 28, 2022

I'm sure you turned off blues for the pic, but just in case what light are you using?

Manose · Mar 28, 2022

Ricky J said:
Hey everyone, looking for a little advice in improving the health on one indo torch of mine. Information on my setup - new Waterbox 110 is only 3.5 months old I’d say and in the uglier stage for sure. Been combatting hair algae and removing what I can by hand. I have other Euphellia’s in as well all doing great to include 6 hammers, 1 frog and another indo torch. Salinity- 1.025
Ammonia- 0
Nitrates- 0 likely due to the algae growth
Phos- .01
Ph- 8.2
Have not tested Alk, Ca etc due to how young the tank is. Salt that I’m using is the TM Pro Reef (German batch) with weekly 10% wc’s. Had the torch for one month, I’ll share some photos and video but the one torch isn’t looking very good.

The algae can really have an impact because it sucks up all the nutrients needed. I had the same issue due to some pretty bad hair algae and my torch did the same thing while all my other corals looked okayish.
Once I got a hold on the algae it was like night and day.
First pic = with bad algae the torch just not looking well and not extending polyps as he was being starved

Second Pic = no algae and he is amazing

Ricky J · Mar 28, 2022

Wolf89 said:
I'm sure you turned off blues for the pic, but just in case what light are you using?

AI Primes, UV, Violent and blues primary at 85%. White pretty low to have a blue hue in the display.

Ricky J · Mar 28, 2022

Manose said:
The algae can really have an impact because it sucks up all the nutrients needed. I had the same issue due to some pretty bad hair algae and my torch did the same thing while all my other corals looked okayish.
Once I got a hold on the algae it was like night and day.
First pic = with bad algae the torch just not looking well and not extending polyps as he was being starved

Second Pic = no algae and he is amazing

Definitely a good change there, glad it’s looking well. Did you just ride out the algae or take more aggressive approach with manual removal or bacterias?

Jekyl · Mar 28, 2022

You've already answered your own question. The problem is your parameters. No nitrate at all means no food. Not knowing alkalinity, calcium and magnesium is strike 2, 3 and 4.

Ricky J · Mar 28, 2022

Sure but nitrates being at 0 is just “detectable”. Nitrates are there just being sprinted up from the algae growth? Regarding Alk, Ca etc, my other Euphellia’s haven’t exploded in growth so I wouldn’t think that would be the issue but I could completely be wrong.

Ricky J · Mar 28, 2022

Sponged up**

Jekyl · Mar 28, 2022

Ricky J said:
Sure but nitrates being at 0 is just “detectable”. Nitrates are there just being sprinted up from the algae growth? Regarding Alk, Ca etc, my other Euphellia’s haven’t exploded in growth so I wouldn’t think that would be the issue but I could completely be wrong.

Regardless of where it went, there isn't any. The same food your coral needs is being consumed first. Growing coral during the ugly phase is challenging. Euphyllia are not beginner coral either. Nitrate in the range of 5, alk stable around 8, calcium 420, magnesium 1400. Moderate light and moderate indirect flow. Other concerns would be acclimation to your lighting.

Jekyl · Mar 28, 2022

Also for the algae, not the best pics for ID but do I see some bubbles in it? Does it increase during the day and less when lights are off?

vetteguy53081 · Mar 28, 2022

Location is the first issue I see with possibility of too much light. Another will be calcium levels. One of the biggest problems I have seen hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including:
Temperature around 78 degrees
Specific gravity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2
Calcium level of about 400 ppm.

Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments as yours shows.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting. Yours needs to be brought to lower PAR and water flow

Manose · Mar 28, 2022

Ricky J said:
Definitely a good change there, glad it’s looking well. Did you just ride out the algae or take more aggressive approach with manual removal or bacterias?

I bought a crazy good cleanup crew and scrubbed with a tooth brush all I could, and slowly won the battle.
Now I use microbacter clean at 1/4 dose once a week to take the left over nutrients away from the algae and my water changes are at 2.5gal a day with the DOS and Apex.
The algae didn't appear overnight so it will not disappear overnight.
Also use chemicals as a last resort to algae problems, as I learned the hard way and it was a horrible experience.

Ricky J · Mar 28, 2022

Jekyl said:
Also for the algae, not the best pics for ID but do I see some bubbles in it? Does it increase during the day and less when lights are off?

Sorry, I honestly couldn’t tell you, I’ve been removing it as it’s been growing in the past week or so. Definitely hair algae though.

Ricky J · Mar 28, 2022

vetteguy53081 said:
Location is the first issue I see with possibility of too much light. Another will be calcium levels. One of the biggest problems I have seen hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including:
Temperature around 78 degrees
Specific gravity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2
Calcium level of about 400 ppm.

Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments as yours shows.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting. Yours needs to be brought to lower PAR and water flow

I’ve considered that, PAR at that location is right around 150.

Ricky J · Mar 28, 2022

Manose said:
I bought a crazy good cleanup crew and scrubbed with a tooth brush all I could, and slowly won the battle.
Now I use microbacter clean at 1/4 dose once a week to take the left over nutrients away from the algae and my water changes are at 2.5gal a day with the DOS and Apex.
The algae didn't appear overnight so it will not disappear overnight.
Also use chemicals as a last resort to algae problems, as I learned the hard way and it was a horrible experience.

Ya that’s what I’ve read, I’ve been trying not to use bacteria because of mixed experiences from people. What never actually clicked in my head was removing the algae from the refugium either, this whole time it’s been fueling and I haven’t touched it, now I know lol. It will be tricky though for me removing the algae in the refugium too, I don’t have chaeto, I’ve just naturally let algae manifest in the refugium so most of it is a thick film by now and some hair algae. So I’ll be taking care of that tomorrow.