Torches not fully opening?

[Thespammailaccount]

Yea that why I fed reef roids since they are a phosphate machine. Just curious about why it spiked all of a sudden. Filter floss roller was out for a couple days which timing might line up but doesn’t seem like it would cause it.

Not exactly sure but could be the reason

 

[DSEKULA]

I just have the one Aussie and it’s not in great shape. Poor flesh when I was given it but just seeing if I can stimulate growth on it given Aussies can be melty. I don’t want to chase a specific number but still not sure the cause of the swing. I can get a GFO reactor online but I currently rather wait until Friday when my Chaeto comes in to try to fight it that way.

If your just waiting untill Friday and want to just bring it down a touch how about a small wc to bring it down before then. That way your not messing with adding more equipment or anything but still working twords your goal.. also if you measure before and after and see a difference you could see the coral reaction and judge if it a move in the right direction without making a drastic change

 

[Letterkenny]

If your just waiting untill Friday and want to just bring it down a touch how about a small wc to bring it down before then. That way your not messing with adding more equipment or anything but still working twords your goal.. also if you measure before and after and see a difference you could see the coral reaction and judge if it a move in the right direction without making a drastic change

Yea I was thinking just that. I have 20g ready (minus adjusting the all up to 8) so will try that tomorrow since that should bring it below 0.1.

 

[DSEKULA]

My torches (compared to other Euphyllia) really seem to like to eat auctual meaty foods. They catch brine, mysis, roe and other similar size foods and seem to always eat where others are likely to release the food so I'd also try giving them a brine (or similar) or two each and see if they respond better.

 

[sawdonkey]

I know a lot of people use it, it every time I try to use carbon to clear up my water, my corals get ticked.

 

[Thespammailaccount]

I know a lot of people use it, it every time I try to use carbon to clear up my water, my corals get ticked.

Second that. I only add it for a day once a month to remove any toxins from coral fights mine don’t like gfo either. I use a protein skimmer macro and a turf scrubber

 

[Hydrored]

Second that. I only add it for a day once a month to remove any toxins from coral fights mine don’t like gfo either. I use a protein skimmer macro and a turf scrubber

I have switched to Purit and run extremely low flow through it, saw zero impact to the corals over the last month. It takes a lot to rinse free but we will see if it really last 4-6 months

 

[Thespammailaccount]

I have switched to Purit and run extremely low flow through it, saw zero impact to the corals over the last month. It takes a lot to rinse free but we will see if it really last 4-6 months

Might have to try it out I do have corals close together and need carbon at least on occasion

 

[Letterkenny]

Well I’ll get a GFO reactor ready in case I need to bring it down but will try with just a water change while my chaeto comes in.

 

[sawdonkey]

I highly doubt your issue is PO4 if you’re at .1 or so. That’s not that high, especially for euphilia.

 

[canadianeh]

Of course it is cycled. It killed 2ppm ammonia to 0 in about 12 hours. Nitrite bacteria established soon thereafter and quickly went to zero. Parameters are in original post and clearly indicate this.

That’s why you should have posted more detail information on the first post especially if you put picture with rocks that look brand new and when you specified the tank is a month old. The parameters you posted on the first post does not clearly tell whether your tank is cycled, how is cycled, and that you have old rocks from your sump.

On this case, people will ask you questions that related to new tank questions if you don’t put the detail. We also don’t know you personally, and there are people out there that hurry everything and just put lots of things in new tank. Hence, again here is why you need to put more detail information. More wont hurt.

I would agree with some have said here using microbacter7. I used it on my new tank too after the tank cycled. Also, agree with some have said there to start with easier ones such as frogspawn and hammer until the tank is a bit older.

 

[Tundra Cuttle]

I have been looking for a long time at euphillya because they are a great coral that I was always lead to believe were extremely easy to take care of, when I took care of them at the store they always did super well so I didn't think about it.

That being said: it seems they are more complicated than I thought. My tank grew anything I put in it. I got a tiny torch and it opened and the skin started overtaking the base skeleton again slowly and then when from 1 head to 3 heads. I got a hammer the had skin all the way down to the base with baby branches everywhere, as soon as it got into my tank it started to recede but it was opening nice and full, then the skin stopped receding and started crawling down the skeleton slowly over weeks. My tank was half coral and half macro algae and parameters were perfect. I wanted more space so I plumbed in a sump and moved my macro algae down to the sump with a cheap light on it. Tank went 2 weeks doing well, then crashed and smelled like rotten eggs, dinos absolutely everywhere, it was savage. So not only had I messed up my nutrient export but I created a huge amount of anaerobic bacteria creating a bacterial imbalance. My torch lost months of growth, my hammer lost all the flesh on its skeleton, everything was sad, only acro, toast. I moved to a larger tank and have moved the macro algae back into the tank under a better light. Tank went through diatoms that cleared up and we are doing a 10% water change every other day to keep things stable so we don't lose all of our coral we worked so hard to grow and acquire. We have another bunch of macro algae starting to grow and I added to it 2 weeks ago the tank is starting to come back. Current parameters are still great. But I say all this to say I think there is something we are missing, tank maturity I think has more components than just good parameters.

I would say your tank is cycled and the parameters are good but there is something more to it and I'm trying to figure out what that is. I hope you won't lose your corals but I would say the skin has probably started to recede. I would start dosing amino acids and feed the the tank heavier, your water may be sterile and carry little beneficial nutrients for your coral to absorb from the water column.

Sorry for the book but this stuff is pretty important to me and I find it very interesting.

 

[Tundra Cuttle]

I wouldn't run GFO in a new tank that stuff is potent.

 

[Letterkenny]

Appreciate the info. It doesn’t look like the flesh is receding (outside of the Aussie that came like that, hoping to see it I can help him). Like I said, the next day everything was fine and fully opened. Not sure if it was the water change or the new carbon or if they were just a bit annoyed those days. I have heard the key to success, especially with Aussies, is high Alk. Unfortunately that doesn’t work as well if you plan SPS but apparently that will help keep them happy. I feed aminos via reef energy AB+ often and the occasional reef roids.

I’ve had high end Euphyllia before and kept them with success until work got the best of me (month of 100+ hour weeks) which ate up my testing. This is why I got the trident to help during these times.