Tough to quarantine fish

[Bama41Georgia24]

Im looking for everyone’s thoughts on tough to quarantine fish, ones that don’t do so well with copper along with ones not good in quarantine period. I’ve seen some recent posts that a blue throat trigger are sensitive and people have lost them in qt also a naso tang is sensitive to qt and may need to only use copper if necessary? Thoughts and what other fish should I be wary to qt in copper.

 

[40g Nano]

Im looking for everyone’s thoughts on tough to quarantine fish, ones that don’t do so well with copper along with ones not good in quarantine period. I’ve seen some recent posts that a blue throat trigger are sensitive and people have lost them in qt also a naso tang is sensitive to qt and may need to only use copper if necessary? Thoughts and what other fish should I be wary to qt in copper.

I’ve heard that some tangs are sensitive to certain types of copper

 

[jmichaelh7]

Copper power is good to use and not harsh. Its a chelated copper compared to the other types.

I quarantined 15 fish and 3 were tangs.

The only one that didnt make it was an Anthias but that was when i dosed Prazi. Anthias are known to struggle in QT

If your thinking about QT, defintely do it so you dont carry the deadly killing velvet , flukes. Ich is manageable but you can get rid of that too while your at it.

 

[Bama41Georgia24]

Copper power is good to use and not harsh. Its a chelated copper compared to the other types.

I quarantined 15 fish and 3 were tangs.

The only one that didnt make it was an Anthias but that was when i dosed Prazi. Anthias are known to struggle in QT

If your thinking about QT, defintely do it so you dont carry the deadly killing velvet , flukes. Ich is manageable but you can get rid of that too while your at it.

Thank you yes I’ve went back and forth over this and I’ve decided to go the humble fish route with the 14 days of copper power, metro and general cure with 2 qt tanks. I’m trying to ask all the questions before I start lol

 

[jmichaelh7]

Thank you yes I’ve went back and forth over this and I’ve decided to go the humble fish route with the 14 days of copper power, metro and general cure with 2 qt tanks. I’m trying to ask all the questions before I start lol

Why 14 days and not 30

 

[Bama41Georgia24]

Why 14 days and not 30

You can do 14 if you transfer to a new qt tank at the 14 day mark

 

[Bama41Georgia24]

You can do 14 if you transfer to a new qt tank at the 14 day mark

They will stay in the second tank for 2 weeks or so without medication and just observation

 

[jmichaelh7]

All i would be concerned about is Velvet. If the fish don't have velvet, then i can manage other symptoms of Ich or whatever with a UV.

How do i know? I'm one that tried the quarantine setup with copper power and failed miserably. When i introducted them into display they had Ich 3 days later. But with the big UV, the white dots dissappear. Like i mentioned, i wouldn't want Velvet though so i will still quarantine for that

 

[Bama41Georgia24]

All i would be concerned about is Velvet. If the fish don't have velvet, then i can manage other symptoms of Ich or whatever with a UV.

How do i know? I'm one that tried the quarantine setup with copper power and failed miserably. When i introducted them into display they had Ich 3 days later. But with the big UV, the white dots dissappear. Like i mentioned, i wouldn't want Velvet though so i will still quarantine for that

I’m also researching uv at the moment they are expensive which I don’t mind I really want the best I can get I’m a believer in getting quality the first time but they all have bad reviews so I’m hesitant until I do more research. Do you have any recommendations? Pentair seems towards the top but they don’t have great reviews from what I’ve seen

 

[jmichaelh7]

I’m also researching uv at the moment they are expensive which I don’t mind I really want the best I can get I’m a believer in getting quality the first time but they all have bad reviews so I’m hesitant until I do more research. Do you have any recommendations? Pentair seems towards the top but they don’t have great reviews from what I’ve seen

My wife literally told me to not quarantine because SPS would suffer. And sure enough, they did. 90% of my coral died from the fluctuations. My particular quarantine i went the 45 day route, raising temp to 81 which would top out at 84.

Previously I went with Aqua UV 15watt On my Red Sea 112 gallon, it used to keep Ich at bay.

I went this time with Aqua UV 54 Watt. Mounted to the wall under the aquarium. So far so good

I can't say much about Pentair, but i did read reviews and that immediately sturred me away. I'm big on member reviews.

 

[Justin_Reef]

My wife literally told me to not quarantine because SPS would suffer. And sure enough, they did. 90% of my coral died from the fluctuations. My particular quarantine i went the 45 day route, raising temp to 81 which would top out at 84.

Previously I went with Aqua UV 15watt On my Red Sea 112 gallon, it used to keep Ich at bay.

I went this time with Aqua UV 54 Watt. Mounted to the wall under the aquarium. So far so good

I can't say much about Pentair, but i did read reviews and that immediately sturred me away. I'm big on member reviews.

What do SPS have to do with QTing fish?

 

[jmichaelh7]

What do SPS have to do with QTing fish?

SPS don't like fluctuations.

When i increased aquarium temps from 78 to 81 , it would fluctuate even higher because i have t5 as well.

SPS RTN like crazy.

Im sure you can get away with it by acclimating the temperatures slowly hoping the SPS don't feel the change. But this was My Experience i was sharing with the OP.

 

[Justin_Reef]

SPS don't like fluctuations.

When i increased aquarium temps from 78 to 81 , it would fluctuate even higher because i have t5 as well.

SPS RTN like crazy.

Im sure you can get away with it by acclimating the temperatures slowly hoping the SPS don't feel the change. But this was My Experience i was sharing with the OP.

Oh, I meant why did you have sps in QT with fish? Maybe I missed something?

 

[Justin_Reef]

To answer the original question, I have QT'd some tough fish over the years including fish that you cannot put through copper, such as puffers. I do not prophylactically treat fish.

I keep a 40G breeder QT always running with HOB filter, live rock, ect. All fish start in this tank for 4 week observation, minimum. If I don't run into any issues after 4-6 weeks, then into the display. If I find internal parasites (most common thing I run into) then I treat with metroplex/prazipro in this tank. If I find ich and I cannot use copper (puffers) then I go hypo in this tank.

Anything more serious and I set up my hospital tank, which is another 40G breeder, but is not always running. Here I can use more serious meds.

If I find any parasites in the QT, I keep it fallow for 45 days at 81 degrees. I know in this time I cannot buy more fish, which is fine. I buy in groups and never impulse buy.

I used to HATE QT and fish would often die in my QT anyway. I was doing it all wrong, usually setting up a QT the day before I bought fish. I was dumping them into a stressful situation. Now I always have my QT running and cycled, which has made all the difference.

I also combine hypo with TTM sometimes if ich is really bad.

Anyone saying you don't need to worry about ich is wrong. I agree, it won't often kill fish, but it can and there is no reason to make your fish 'just live with it'.

 

[jmichaelh7]

No l

To answer the original question, I have QT'd some tough fish over the years including fish that you cannot put through copper, such as puffers. I do not prophylactically treat fish.

I keep a 40G breeder QT always running with HOB filter, live rock, ect. All fish start in this tank for 4 week observation, minimum. If I don't run into any issues after 4-6 weeks, then into the display. If I find internal parasites (most common thing I run into) then I treat with metroplex/prazipro in this tank. If I find ich and I cannot use copper (puffers) then I go hypo in this tank.

Anything more serious and I set up my hospital tank, which is another 40G breeder, but is not always running. Here I can use more serious meds.

If I find any parasites in the QT, I keep it fallow for 45 days at 81 degrees. I know in this time I cannot buy more fish, which is fine. I buy in groups and never impulse buy.

I used to HATE QT and fish would often die in my QT anyway. I was doing it all wrong, usually setting up a QT the day before I bought fish. I was dumping them into a stressful situation. Now I always have my QT running and cycled, which has made all the difference.

I also combine hypo with TTM sometimes if ich is really bad.

Anyone saying you don't need to worry about ich is wrong. I agree, it won't often kill fish, but it can and there is no reason to make your fish 'just live with it'.

i apologize . Im confusing

So my display went fallow and sps died. The quarantine tank was separate but both happened at the same time that’s why

 

[Bama41Georgia24]

To answer the original question, I have QT'd some tough fish over the years including fish that you cannot put through copper, such as puffers. I do not prophylactically treat fish.

I keep a 40G breeder QT always running with HOB filter, live rock, ect. All fish start in this tank for 4 week observation, minimum. If I don't run into any issues after 4-6 weeks, then into the display. If I find internal parasites (most common thing I run into) then I treat with metroplex/prazipro in this tank. If I find ich and I cannot use copper (puffers) then I go hypo in this tank.

Anything more serious and I set up my hospital tank, which is another 40G breeder, but is not always running. Here I can use more serious meds.

If I find any parasites in the QT, I keep it fallow for 45 days at 81 degrees. I know in this time I cannot buy more fish, which is fine. I buy in groups and never impulse buy.

I used to HATE QT and fish would often die in my QT anyway. I was doing it all wrong, usually setting up a QT the day before I bought fish. I was dumping them into a stressful situation. Now I always have my QT running and cycled, which has made all the difference.

I also combine hypo with TTM sometimes if ich is really bad.

Anyone saying you don't need to worry about ich is wrong. I agree, it won't often kill fish, but it can and there is no reason to make your fish 'just live with it'.

Awesome great info thank you

 

[angelsandtangs]

To answer the original question, I have QT'd some tough fish over the years including fish that you cannot put through copper, such as puffers. I do not prophylactically treat fish.

I keep a 40G breeder QT always running with HOB filter, live rock, ect. All fish start in this tank for 4 week observation, minimum. If I don't run into any issues after 4-6 weeks, then into the display. If I find internal parasites (most common thing I run into) then I treat with metroplex/prazipro in this tank. If I find ich and I cannot use copper (puffers) then I go hypo in this tank.

Anything more serious and I set up my hospital tank, which is another 40G breeder, but is not always running. Here I can use more serious meds.

If I find any parasites in the QT, I keep it fallow for 45 days at 81 degrees. I know in this time I cannot buy more fish, which is fine. I buy in groups and never impulse buy.

I used to HATE QT and fish would often die in my QT anyway. I was doing it all wrong, usually setting up a QT the day before I bought fish. I was dumping them into a stressful situation. Now I always have my QT running and cycled, which has made all the difference.

I also combine hypo with TTM sometimes if ich is really bad.

Anyone saying you don't need to worry about ich is wrong. I agree, it won't often kill fish, but it can and there is no reason to make your fish 'just live with it'.

You definitely can live with it and manage but ich is like a ticking time bomb something goes wrong and fish gets stressed boom you have a disaster waiting to happen ..

 

[davidcalgary29]

My valentini puffer/black saddled toby did well with copper power.

 

[damsels are not mean]

The best method for ich IMO is the tank transfer method. No need for copper and no extra stress. All you do is move the fish every few days to a new tank and dry out the old one. Then repeat into the old one. All the stages of the parasite that aren't on the fish already die off and are unable to continue the cycle. It's cheap and doesn't subject your fish to copper. Unlike chemical treatments, it's not hard to do and this means you basically have a 100% chance of success if done right.

 

[angelsandtangs]

The best method for ich IMO is the tank transfer method. No need for copper and no extra stress. All you do is move the fish every few days to a new tank and dry out the old one. Then repeat into the old one. All the stages of the parasite that aren't on the fish already die off and are unable to continue the cycle. It's cheap and doesn't subject your fish to copper. Unlike chemical treatments, it's not hard to do and this means you basically have a 100% chance of success if done right.

Not so sure about 100% I’ve done the ttm and had ich come back probably did something wrong like sneeze or had the ceiling fan on too high or miss 1 little speck of ich ‍ I might try it again in the future when I’m retired and have more time to make sure it’s perfect ..