Treating STN - Lugol's vs. ChemiClean

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Apologies if this is in the wrong forum. I have a maricultured acro colony that is going through a very slow STN. Asking what would be a better method in trying to stop the STN.

1). A regimen of dips using Lugol's? (10 minute dip every few days). I was planning on using the Brightwell brand iodine, along with their Restor for the dip.

2). Using Chemiclean as a dip? (following the recommended directions using a QT tank vs. doubling the dosage and dipping the coral instead)


I am a rookie when it comes to treating corals. Open to suggestions and thanks in advance.

Yes, I know I can frag it, but that would be the last resort.
 
I saw a video where it was claimed Chemiclean stopped STN. It contains erythromycin, so I'm hoping to stop whatever bacterial infection the coral is having.

The rest of the tank is happy. The other acros are happy.
If the coral is slowly dying then it never hurts to try possible remedies.
 
Why try a remedy when you don't really know the cause? What are your parameters and have they been stable? Any recent chabges or issues?

STN is most likely from something the Acro isn't liking. Lighting, flow, nutrients, etc.
 
Why try a remedy when you don't really know the cause? What are your parameters and have they been stable? Any recent chabges or issues?

STN is most likely from something the Acro isn't liking. Lighting, flow, nutrients, etc.

Parameters are stable. Tank is 3 years old. All other acros are fine and growing. Plenty of flow. I dose phyto every other day.

Salinity: 34-35 ppt
Alkalinity: 8.0 - 8.4
Nitrate: I don't test
Calcium: 420
Phosphate: .08 - .12
Temp: 78-79

It's a maricultured piece so likely hasn't been in captivity for long. I don't know the cause. It's possible that the stress event happened in the seller's tank. At this point, I'm just trying to save it. The STN is progressing slowly, so I'm inclined to think it's due to bacteria.
 
Parameters are stable. Tank is 3 years old. All other acros are fine and growing. Plenty of flow. I dose phyto every other day.

Salinity: 34-35 ppt
Alkalinity: 8.0 - 8.4
Nitrate: I don't test
Calcium: 420
Phosphate: .08 - .12
Temp: 78-79

It's a maricultured piece so likely hasn't been in captivity for long. I don't know the cause. It's possible that the stress event happened in the seller's tank. At this point, I'm just trying to save it. The STN is progressing slowly, so I'm inclined to think it's due to bacteria.

A 4 gallon pico tank? If that's the case, then you'll never be able to keep Maricultured in that and I doubt any Acropora for any length of time.

Too small, not enough flow, etc.
 
I saw a video where it was claimed Chemiclean stopped STN. It contains erythromycin, so I'm hoping to stop whatever bacterial infection the coral is having.

The rest of the tank is happy. The other acros are happy.
Didn’t know. Ty for info. If u try it pls post results.
 
A 4 gallon pico tank? If that's the case, then you'll never be able to keep Maricultured in that and I doubt any Acropora for any length of time.

Too small, not enough flow, etc.

Well that's part of the fun. Trying to keep acros in such a tiny volume of water is not impossibly difficult. Challenging, yes. But I like challenges.

I've been able to keep acros in this tank. The only ones that died were test frags when the tank was new (when I was new to the hobby) and didn't understand alkalinity. Once I had my parameters pegged the only frag that died was a WD acro that started taking off but was stung by a torch and ended up experiencing RTN.

Pico tanks are fun. It doesn't have to be relegated to softies or LPS. SPS can absolutely be kept. You just can't import/export nutrients like you can in a big tank, so the growth is much slower.
 
Well that's part of the fun. Trying to keep acros in such a tiny volume of water is not impossibly difficult. Challenging, yes. But I like challenges.

I've been able to keep acros in this tank. The only ones that died were test frags when the tank was new (when I was new to the hobby) and didn't understand alkalinity. Once I had my parameters pegged the only frag that died was a WD acro that started taking off but was stung by a torch and ended up experiencing RTN.

Pico tanks are fun. It doesn't have to be relegated to softies or LPS. SPS can absolutely be kept. You just can't import/export nutrients like you can in a big tank, so the growth is much slower.

Whats the longest surviving Acro you have in the tank currently? Have any pics of when you put it in and pics that are current of the Acro?
 
Whats the longest surviving Acro you have in the tank currently? Have any pics of when you put it in and pics that are current of the Acro?

Oldest one was the WD. It was about 2 years old and it had pooled over the rock and branches were getting taller. That was the one that got stung by the torch. Everything else is from last summer's RAP and local frag shows - so about 9 - 12 months old and still on plugs (I know, I need to mounth them).

Sorry, I don't take a lot of pics, other than my old build thread, and the random update to the build thread to enter some of the contests I see here on R2R.
 
Why try a remedy when you don't really know the cause? What are your parameters and have they been stable? Any recent chabges or issues?

STN is most likely from something the Acro isn't liking. Lighting, flow, nutrients, etc.
Because if his parameters are in fact stable, we may never know the cause
 
Because we may never know the cause
Yes, that's true.

Just went through it myself and nothing chabged to cause it. Now I'm dealing with extreme hair algae and algae from the tips of the Acros.. Yeah.....
 
Apologies if this is in the wrong forum. I have a maricultured acro colony that is going through a very slow STN. Asking what would be a better method in trying to stop the STN.

1). A regimen of dips using Lugol's? (10 minute dip every few days). I was planning on using the Brightwell brand iodine, along with their Restor for the dip.

2). Using Chemiclean as a dip? (following the recommended directions using a QT tank vs. doubling the dosage and dipping the coral instead)


I am a rookie when it comes to treating corals. Open to suggestions and thanks in advance.

Yes, I know I can frag it, but that would be the last resort.
Before using additives and chemicals which are at times an alternative and not a solution and can potentially cause added stress, try to find source which I see no pics to confirm if its STN, bacterial, a light issue, bleaching or chemistry
 
Not any help but when only one coral starts to rtn /stn does anyone have success getting them to turn around? I'm only asking because I made the mistake of pointing out my favorite frag to my Gal yesterday and sure enough today it's starting to bleach and everything else is fine. I normally just accept it as an isolated thing and don't address it if everything else is looking good, parameters good etc. Is this not what I should be doing? I've always felt if it was only 1 piece I just accept the loss. :thinking-face: I am asking tho not saying my thinking correct.
 
Before using additives and chemicals which are at times an alternative and not a solution and can potentially cause added stress, try to find source which I see no pics to confirm if its STN, bacterial, a light issue, bleaching or chemistry

"try to find source which I see no pics to confirm if its STN, bacterial, a light issue, bleaching or chemistry"

Not trying to pick a fight vetteguy, but this type of comment is often frustrating. If I knew the source then I wouldn't have an issue at all. Even if I knew the source and corrected it, it's not going to help the coral once it's too far gone. For all I know, my tank is hunky-dory but the colony I bought wasn't healthy from the jump. In my opinion, with so many variables in our tanks, there is no way to pinpoint a cause (or a solution, for that matter).
 
"try to find source which I see no pics to confirm if its STN, bacterial, a light issue, bleaching or chemistry"

Not trying to pick a fight vetteguy, but this type of comment is often frustrating. If I knew the source then I wouldn't have an issue at all. Even if I knew the source and corrected it, it's not going to help the coral once it's too far gone. For all I know, my tank is hunky-dory but the colony I bought wasn't healthy from the jump. In my opinion, with so many variables in our tanks, there is no way to pinpoint a cause (or a solution, for that matter).
try this:
Some possible triggers of infection are:
- Alkalinity spike
- Temperature spike
- Salinity spike
- Low dissolved oxygen
- Poor water quality related with phosphate levels up to 5 ppm
- Change in water flow
- Additions of sand
- Changes in brand of salt
- Bad test kits giving faulty results
- Levels of minor elements such as Iodine, Potassium, Strontium
- Light intensity
- Addition of new corals
-- Pesticides
- Airborne Contaminants or sprays
 

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