Treating with hydrogen peroxide and charcoal
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It won’t matter but why dose it to the tank
we have much better ways, the recommend is to not dose the water. Curious to see pic of the challenge situation
we have much better ways, the recommend is to not dose the water. Curious to see pic of the challenge situation
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Just John
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I posted before about a mild dino problem that was starting in my month old tank. Diatoms came and went already. I now see what looks like cyano too. I got some frags a couple of weeks ago and I feel sure that's where it came from. In my last post I think you said to wait it out and do water changes with manual cleaning. Others have said to do a blackout, or use hydrogen peroxide, or miracle cures, etc, etc, etc. I am new at this and I don't know what is best or what is not. I decided to do what seems like a safe way that includes something from multiple recommendations. Phosphate and nitrate are both at zero (not feeding anything). So, keep the lights off except for an hour or two a day to slow it down, do water changes, manually remove, and dose with some hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is simply hydrogen and oxygen (obviously), so once any reaction is over it does not leave any mystery chemicals behind. Maybe a poor way to go about things, but that is what I came up with. I am not at home, but a picture would just show some patchy brown coating on the sand and a patchy thin layer on the rocks with bubbles forming in it. The cyano is just a 2"x 2" patch right now.
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That’s a halfway decent use for it actually. One mil per ten gallons dosed max twice a day is known safe for most organisms except fireworms and lysmata shrimp. Since the known sensitive list doesn’t include most fish and corals and inverts it’s not harmful to try, take good pics your findings might boost up work threads.
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Dinoflagellates my experience......h2o2 reefing tool!!!!!
aaaaaaarrrrrrr just wanted to share my recent battle and how i won!!!!!!!!! "i wish i took pics but i didn't..:(" so about 3 weeks ago my tank broke out pretty bad i mean bad!!!!!! my coast to coast overflow would get plugged and almost overflow my tank..... so i did my research and found...
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ecrumpler
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You're gong to get a lot of advice. With the age of your tank, I personally would do nothing, and wait. At such an early stage I believe you will do more harm than good.
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Just John
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I forgot about another issue with conflicting views. Some say in a nutrient deprived tank like mine dosing amino acids will reduce algae, including "algae" like cyano and dinos. Others say the opposite. Any thoughts?
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Just John
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No fish. Just a 13 galllon AIO.
Your aquarium is very young, so it is not uncommon to see some algae/cyano blooms. If you started with just dry rock, you will have a longer road...
True '0' readings for both NO3 and PO4 in a new aquarium...not so good (dinos and cyano can outcompete other organisms under these circumstances, causing blooms). Feed a bit to where you just see a reading for both with quality test kits. Although excess nutrients can promote algae blooms, the reality is that reef associated algae can and do grow very well in extremely low nutrient water on the reef. It's the herbivores that keep it in check, so you need a diverse cleanup crew (CUC) and help them with a bit of manual cleaning until the system matures (this is where the spot application of hydrogen peroxide can be used to good effect).
What I'm trying to convey is that it's the reef keeper's job to help guide the system towards a more mature and stable future where intervention for algae and cyano is no longer a primary issue, or ideally no issue at all. This takes time and perseverance, not miracle cures that might take care of a symptom, but do nothing to address the root cause(s).
True '0' readings for both NO3 and PO4 in a new aquarium...not so good (dinos and cyano can outcompete other organisms under these circumstances, causing blooms). Feed a bit to where you just see a reading for both with quality test kits. Although excess nutrients can promote algae blooms, the reality is that reef associated algae can and do grow very well in extremely low nutrient water on the reef. It's the herbivores that keep it in check, so you need a diverse cleanup crew (CUC) and help them with a bit of manual cleaning until the system matures (this is where the spot application of hydrogen peroxide can be used to good effect).
What I'm trying to convey is that it's the reef keeper's job to help guide the system towards a more mature and stable future where intervention for algae and cyano is no longer a primary issue, or ideally no issue at all. This takes time and perseverance, not miracle cures that might take care of a symptom, but do nothing to address the root cause(s).
ecrumpler
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Do you have a CUC? I believe that fish poop is elemental to a reef tank. I would add a fish and feed it. Stop water changes and see if the tank will balance. But there are a lot of different opinions.
A fish will help. I had a small Bimaculatus Blenny in my 12g at the beginning and it not only had a great personality, but it also cleaned the glass/rocks like a snail would (win-win)!
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Just John
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Thanks for the video! Blennies have the best personality of any fish IMO. What are the zoas in the upper left? I like those! It looks like the photo was taken in white light. Is that correct?
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ecrumpler
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Great idea, get a true matched pair to save you any headache. I would just wait, maintain Alk, CA and MG and let the tank mature. For me new tanks with dry rock also benefit from some matrix thrown in the sump or filter compartment.
Considering the age of your aquarium, and the fact that even a pair of Oscellaris Clownfish eventually get too large for a 13g (and produce a lot of waste), if you do go this route start with a small, young pair and be prepared to rehome in 2-3 years.
This was my pair. I rehomed the B/W female when she got to around 4+".
I treat a tank with Clownfish as I would one with Goldfish, meaning a regular and effective cleaning schedule. I put mine in after a few years.
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Just John
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Awesome Ricordia! I just bought 5 myself. Did you glue them down or just let them settle in?Considering the age of your aquarium, and the fact that even a pair of Oscellaris Clownfish eventually get too large for a 13g (and produce a lot of waste), if you do go this route start with a small, young pair and be prepared to rehome in 2-3 years.
This was my pair. I rehomed the B/W female when she got to around 4".
No-names zoas. Yes, I run a whiter main light schedule than most these days,
Glue them down. If not, they float around and my Clownfish used to play 'nose-push the Ricordia', which didn't go down well for the Ric.
Adamantium
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Wondering this myself. I’ve been dosing H2O2 the last 3 nights with no real improvement to my slight Dino problem.
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The best way to fight dinos, if peroxide is chosen as the battle implement, is in the clean condition as a growback preventer.
currently people add it to the full mass condition, consider the deep clean first = less target mass to deal with
currently people add it to the full mass condition, consider the deep clean first = less target mass to deal with
