triton lab test results question

  • Thread starter Thread starter slojmn
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

slojmn

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
1,670
Reaction score
243
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am trying to figure out how to post the actual results of my Triton Lab saltwater test results for my 120g tank. I have been losing SPS in my tank for the past 7 months. My prized collection has been devastated. I suspected a low alk incident in March and quickly stabilized the alk, its now 6 months later and the carnage has continued unabated. It isvery slow STN, some small frags RTN's over night or within 12 hours but most all colonies have been slowly receding from the base up. I moved many frags and a few small colonies to my nano reef and they seemed to do fine for a while. Now some are showing the same STN from base up. This led me to think a bacteria infection that I am just passing from SPS to SPS and tank to tank. The only other corals to show any issue have been my Zoas in the main tank, they are up and down. All other LPS are fine. The SPS colonies are continuing to grow well at the tips and color is so-so. I tried gluing the leading edge of death with only one success, a smooth coral that I glued and moved to the nano reef. It has maintained well, all other corals that I have glued slowed down recession for a few weeks then it started again. Moving them or leaving them in the main tank does not seem to matter.
I have set up a 60g reef tank in the garage that is cycling right now for some new acropora that I am receiving later this month. I am hoping that these new additions will be fine in the holding tank. I was considering moving all unaffected frags to the holding tank as well but I am afraid that if it is a bacteria infection that is spreading I will take it into that tank as well. I figure new corals will be safe in the holding tank. Any thoughts on my plan of action in that regard? I am thinking of dipping affected SPS in Coral Rx but I have read that that may have little affect if the infection is "deeper" into the coral, like at a cellular level I guess. It will only help the surface of the corals. Any thoughts on that?
I use ESV 4-part salt, I dose BRS alk and Ca nightly on a hourly schedule, I just put carbon on the tank last week (which I think may be speeding up the recession :(), otherwise that's it for additives. I do a weekly 15% water change, and there is a Poly-Filter pad in the sump that I replace monthly.

So back to my test results, Until I can get the whole page to display which I cant figure out, here are the worry spots:
Tin- 42.50 high red zone
Copper 2.15 High yellow zone
Bromide 62.20 high red zone
Boron 2.26 high yellow zone
Strontium 4.10 high yellow zone
Lithium 221.50 high red zone
Molydenum -12 low yellow zone
Iodine -34.08 low yellow zone

I am thinking about sending in a sample of my make-up saltwater to Triton...before it ever hits my tank and see what those results looks like. Is the tin and copper in the tank only or part of the make-up water? Are the results really out of whack and may be the reason for my terrible troubles or did I somehow get a terrible bacterial infection that is spreading and taking out the acropora?
If it is a bacterial infection how in the world do I ever bounce back from it will it always be in the tank even if all sps are removed?
One other thing, some time ago, in 2013 I believe, I had a vinegar overdoes, I pumped 1/2 gallon in the tank over 24 hours. This led to a massive bacteria bloom. I posted here to you and you suggested some water changes and let it play out. After a few water changes over 5 days my tank was amazing!!! The corals never looked better, they grew, color was stupendous and it was the best thing to have happened to my tank in years. I think all of this growth and health led to the low alk incident early this year as I didn't keep up with it enough. I also had someone re-build my rock scape with that Emco cement or some such thing in July 2014 (thank god as it probably saved my whole tank from destruction in the Napa quake). I don't knwo if that is contributing but he assured me it doesn't leach anything into the reef.

Any thoughts and help is super appreciated.
 
I don't know if it is an issue or not, but that tin value is the highest I've seen by a significant margin.

Nothing else in the Triton test seems likely to be the problem.

Is there a typo in the strontium entry? 4 ppm is low, not high.

I don't know EMCO cement.

I agree that moving frags from the current tank into the same water with new corals is a risk. I'ts hard to gauge how much of a risk.

I'm not sure how to easily confirm or refute the possibility of a bacterial infection.
 
Randy, Thank you for your comments. The numbers I posted are the amounts that the item is either over or above what it should be. So the strontium is 4.10 over the setpoint of 8.0 according to my test results from Triton results. I will try and post my Triton Lab results here.
 
I am still having difficulty with getting even a screen shot to be big enough to read...still working on it.

Screenshot_2014-11-15-14-44-48.png.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_2014-11-15-14-44-48.jpg
    Screenshot_2014-11-15-14-44-48.jpg
    9.9 KB · Views: 223
Last edited:
Got it, that one above is the first part of the test and here is the second part.

Screenshot_2014-11-15-14-45-01.png.jpg
 
My results came back with high concentration of Tin also. What to do from this point? So we just keep doing regular water changes and hopefully all the elements auto adjust? I am not sure what to do from this point.
 
OK, I understand the strontium now.

Same concern about the tin. The polyfilter seems a good plan, although I do not know how effective it is since we do not know what form that tin may be taking.
 
My results came back with high concentration of Tin also. What to do from this point? So we just keep doing regular water changes and hopefully all the elements auto adjust? I am not sure what to do from this point.

I do not know if it is a concern, but many people have elevated tin in the sort of 2-10 range, some even 20 ug/L, but the OP in this thread was at 43, which is well above the next highest I've seen at about 30 ug/L.

I don't really know how to best deal with it since at the moment we do not know the source. If it is something in the water, a water change may only be a temporary "cure".

Ehsan (Triton) has suggested it may be from metal hose clamps. If you have any of those near the water (or worse, under water), you may want to replace them with something else.
 
Not a single hose clamp near the tank, however I have a steel stand with black paint on it and I did notice over the years that a section of the stand on hte interior portion is super rusted from salt creep and soem of the "rust" pieces have been falling in the water. I found them when I was checking all pumps and dismantling thigs. I sucked out some pieces and surmise this has been in my water for quite a while. I now have the sump covered in that area so no more pieces of the rusty part of the stand can get into the water. I figured since it was rust it probably wouldn't hurt the water quality all that much being iron oxide. Well, who knows what it is really so maybe it is really some form of aluminum. I will be sending in water from my mixing vat next. I'll see what that shows.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top