Triton Method, an ongoing study

[Terri Caton]

I'm not sure you can use it straight from the beach or not due to potential contamination and pollutants. The company I use collects it from further out and 3 different depths (or so I am told)

I've seen people on here that do it. Of course I would check it out first. Certainly couldn't use it when we had 1 1/2 years of Red Tide! That was horrible.

 

[ShadowReef]

I've seen people on here that do it. Of course I would check it out first. Certainly couldn't use it when we had 1 1/2 years of Red Tide! That was horrible.

Might just be a uk thing then. We dont have crystal clear water here in many places

 

[symon_say]

I have been running the Triton system for quite some time now. I don't use Triton chemicals due to the packaging leaking and cost. I prefer using powder and mixing it myself it is cheaper and more controllable. Right now I use BRS for Calcium and ALK and add Tropic Marin Trace Element C. I then do a ICP test quarterly to check my water parameters. I find this to be less expensive and no product leaking in delivery process. Here is a video of my tank which is 10 years old. 4 Years using the Triton method:

You can buy the 4l bulk kit, that's all powder, so you avoid leak.

I purchase Rubbermaid 5l corn flakes container and that works really nice to get the 4l mix in.

 

[zromano]

Following. Excited to see your progress. I’m in the process of switching as well, Neptune Dos system and triton supplements in the mail and on their way. How did you keep the chaeto from clogging your skimmer and return pump?

 

[ShadowReef]

Following. Excited to see your progress. I’m in the process of switching as well, Neptune Dos system and triton supplements in the mail and on their way. How did you keep the chaeto from clogging your skimmer and return pump?

Next update soon...

The chaeto is in the first chamber so not having much of an issue with it reaching return pump. It does creep into the second chamber frequently though. So, despite them saying not to remove any, mine grows so much I have to. Removing about a bucket every month. On the plus side it keeps it healthy as its filled the first chamber so much it cant roll to get light on the bottom

 

[Mhart032]

When you are dosing the 4 parts do you dose say 20ml of each do you dose them throughout the day say on a 12 or 14 hour schedule or just all 20ml at one time? For instance im currently dosing 2 part 14ml of each and i schedule it out through the entire day.

 

[Mhart032]

go for as many doses as possible
I’m dosing 50ml a day 24x

Awesome thank you, Ill be switching over this evening.

 

[ReefReadyYouTube]

Triton method is over rated!! Yes it works but other methods work just as well and better. You can keep a tank simple with very little attachments (skimmers, sumps, etc.) and have it do extremely well. If you understand the biology of real ocean water and how light effects the reef tank you can do what ever you want in this hobby.

 

[Mhart032]

What are you using at the moment?

Right now im using MeCoral 2 part and Nopo4X to control phosphates and dosing nitrates. I added the AL99 last night, i had GFO but had not run it in a while. i have that running currently and have the 4 bulk parts ready to put inline after i clean the dos lines out.

 

[ShadowReef]

Triton method is over rated!! Yes it works but other methods work just as well and better. You can keep a tank simple with very little attachments (skimmers, sumps, etc.) and have it do extremely well. If you understand the biology of real ocean water and how light effects the reef tank you can do what ever you want in this hobby.

Why is it overrated? Dont think anyone is making any claims that it's the best solution. "Yes it works" is good enough for me just as other methods would do the job. I would say though that understanding the biology of real ocean water is kind of the point of the triton method however.

 

[ReefReadyYouTube]

Why is it overrated? Dont think anyone is making any claims that it's the best solution. "Yes it works" is good enough for me just as other methods would do the job. I would say though that understanding the biology of real ocean water is kind of the point of the triton method however.

It’s just another method. It’s expensive and practically all methods have the same end if done properly. It’s new and some people think it’s cool to have a tank with in a tank.

 

[ShadowReef]

Sorry guys, I've not been great at updating this lately as life has been getting in the way! Child on the way and trying to move house so it's all happening at once!

So my updates. So far I'm impressed, everything has remained stable and was easy to get to that point. What I have really noticed is the colouration improvements (specifically green) since being able to accurately figure out the consumption of the trace elements. Previously this was difficult to monitor as the tests for them at home (potassium etc.) are lengthy and complicated. This is more down to ICP testing than the triton method itself I would say though.

I began using AL99 for the first time and plan to rotate it with ROWAPHOS. I was a bit concerned about switching to Al99 as it had mixed reviews but it's done the job well for me.

I also took the advise earlier in this thread and found somewhere that sold 5l pre mixed bottles and this has been more cost effective. I would reccomend this for anyone moving over. The only negative is that the C and D parts (whether you buy mixed or mix yourself) have very hard crystals that take a lot of shaking for a long time to try and dissolve.

A small downside that I have mentioned before is the lack of filter socks that they reccomend means you are going to have particulates in the water that normally get trapped. Especially if you have turbulent water needed in SPS dominant tanks. Plus side to this I guess is that some of those particulates will be caught and eaten buy various corals.

In answer to a previous question I dose at 12-24 intervals throughout the day all 4 parts with time gap between them.

Not seeing any faster growth than with any other methods. Key with anything is stability so as long as it's been stable growth has been consistent.

 

[ShadowReef]

It’s just another method. It’s expensive and practically all methods have the same end if done properly. It’s new and some people think it’s cool to have a tank with in a tank.

I would say for me it's been more cost effective. There is a saving to be made from no water changes (and considering I used NSW which is amazing but expensive it's a god send not having to keep paying for that). They claim that because of the very high concentrations of the 4 part, it works out cheaper there too, but I haven't calculated that myself. In terms of a tank within a tank, I am assuming you mean the sump? I would think most people already have a sump and a large % have a refugium. I had one before the triton method so no change for me there. One thing I would agree with though is the additional electricity bill of funning a refugium. If you want the macro algae in the refugium to compete with DT you're going to need a light just as strong. So that additional light is another increase on the electricity bill

 

[Scrubber_steve]

If you want the macro algae in the refugium to compete with DT you're going to need a light just as strong.

I don't believe that's quite correct.
A display tank surface area is typically much larger than a refugium surface area, so multiple lights are needed to illuminate the display whereas one light will typically be sufficient for a refugium.

A display tank is typically deeper than a refugium & needs strong light intensity to reach the bottom. The algae in a fuge is at the surface, again needing less intensity in comparison & so less wattage needed.

Also, a typical light used for a display has a wider/ fuller spectrum range, but algae in a display only utilise the spectrum in the PUR range. So a refugium light just needs to provided PUR spectrum, meaning less watts needed in comparison.

In my case, an algae scrubber completely out competed the nuisance algae in the display. I don't believe its only a matter of the scrubber algae out-competing the display algae/cyano for nitrogen - phosphate - & various specific trace minerals advantageous for algae photosynthesis. I believe there's also a strong bacteria specific link to algae & its existence. Once a specific nuisance algae's symbiotic bacteria population is overcome by the filtration algae's symbiotic bacteria strain the filtering algae's job is much easier, & the photo-period required is mostly dictated by the volume of nutrients that need processing.

 

[ShadowReef]

I don't believe that's quite correct.
A display tank surface area is typically much larger than a refugium surface area, so multiple lights are needed to illuminate the display whereas one light will typically be sufficient for a refugium.

A display tank is typically deeper than a refugium & needs strong light intensity to reach the bottom. The algae in a fuge is at the surface, again needing less intensity in comparison & so less wattage needed.

Also, a typical light used for a display has a wider/ fuller spectrum range, but algae in a display only utilise the spectrum in the PUR range. So a refugium light just needs to provided PUR spectrum, meaning less watts needed in comparison.

In my case, an algae scrubber completely out competed the nuisance algae in the display. I don't believe its only a matter of the scrubber algae out-competing the display algae/cyano for nitrogen - phosphate - & various specific trace minerals advantageous for algae photosynthesis. I believe there's also a strong bacteria specific link to algae & its existence. Once a specific nuisance algae's symbiotic bacteria population is overcome by the filtration algae's symbiotic bacteria strain the filtering algae's job is much easier, & the photo-period required is mostly dictated by the volume of nutrients that need processing.

Agree with what you're saying, but my point is more that you need a good source of light in a refugium which is an additional electricity source compared to no refugium at all. I have tried with less powerful lights but have had much better success with old LED lights I used on a previous display tank. BRS did an interesting video on growing chaeto in a refugium and the competition between display tank and refugium. In your scenario, you are using a scrubber which again is an additional power consumer compared to having a setup with no sump, no refugium, no scrubber etc.

 

[Mhart032]

I already have a fuge setup always had one and grew macros even 10 years ago, for me it's a have to have for nutrient export, so no loss there, I will say the kessil H380 it's a great light but yes runs the electric bill up, but not that big a deal to me. I honestly like many others is the stability I'm after, and honestly I'm lazy and want to do less work and enjoy the tank more.

 

[Scrubber_steve]

Agree with what you're saying, but my point is more that you need a good source of light in a refugium which is an additional electricity source compared to no refugium at all. I have tried with less powerful lights but have had much better success with old LED lights I used on a previous display tank. BRS did an interesting video on growing chaeto in a refugium and the competition between display tank and refugium. In your scenario, you are using a scrubber which again is an additional power consumer compared to having a setup with no sump, no refugium, no scrubber etc.

Yes, you need an efficient light, & it uses electricity; unavoidable. But other than the filtering algae out-competing nuisance algae, it also exports inorganic nutrients, &, converts CO2 into O2, oxygenating the water to saturation levels & maintaining a healthy pH. Value for money I reckon.

 

[ShadowReef]

Yes, you need an efficient light, & it uses electricity; unavoidable. But other than the filtering algae out-competing nuisance algae, it also exports inorganic nutrients, &, converts CO2 into O2, oxygenating the water to saturation levels & maintaining a healthy pH. Value for money I reckon.

Agreed, which is why I have chaeto coming out of my ears lol. I run my refugium lights at night to maintain a stable ph, do you do the same with your scrubber? I've never used one

 

[Scrubber_steve]

Agreed, which is why I have chaeto coming out of my ears lol. I run my refugium lights at night to maintain a stable ph, do you do the same with your scrubber? I've never used one

Yes, run at night, but not only for pH stability & oxygenation. Leaving it off during display illumination lets the corals take up the available nutrients, minerals & co2 they need for photosynthesis.

 

[Mhart032]

ok, im officially on triton and off 2 part. Thanks for the help guys.