Triton Method vs “Other” Method

[DHill6]

Hi, I too really want to go full Triton so I started with the test, flipped my refugium to the first section, and took out my filter socks. But the problem I first discovered, was that the water was tumbling my plants and the cheato was getting into my skimmer and plugging it. I solved that with some foam on the output that flows into the skimmer section. The other problem was that the display is not as clear with without the filter socks. So now I'm not sure if I want to go full Triton, anyway some more food for thought.

I use the filter sock and skimmer only with the triton for other methods and it's working. If it looks like it needs a WC it's not a biggie. I'm not dosing that much and it's diluted by 50% to allow me to dose at present 3 ml., dosing over 20 hr period into return section of sump

 

[DHill6]

So ur not doseing equally? I was told that in time it will all even out and the base elements can't be over dosed as it will only bring up the calcium so high

And yes there is a discussion on this site we had I think it's triton at 8 or 7 dkh bunch of good info in there just have to search for it.

No, I can't dose equally. The TM Pro salt is already high in calcium. My ca dose is only at .2 ml to keep the DOS running. Tank/sump is 80g , presently mg and alk are dosing 3 ml at 50% dilution. Presently awaiting a reefer 170, downsizing to 34g, then everything dials back. I'm going to use water from current tank to start it up.

 

[ShinyRobot]

No, I can't dose equally. The TM Pro salt is already high in calcium. My ca dose is only at .2 ml to keep the DOS running. Tank/sump is 80g , presently mg and alk are dosing 3 ml at 50% dilution. Presently awaiting a reefer 170, downsizing to 34g, then everything dials back. I'm going to use water from current tank to start it up.

I’m just making an “un-educated” guess here, but isn’t that what the Triton brand of salt PURE is for, so you don’t need to worry about adding more calcium and other elements from salt mix, and just use their easy 4-part system? Another benefit is never needing to do a water change unless you need to quickly detox or something, right?

 

[DHill6]

No, it's not meant for everyday use. After receiving your water analysis back, if you have a problem, it suggests using it. One box doesn't mix up to much gallons if I remember right. Usually they suggest 6 15% water changes, well over 200 in salt. I just use TM Pro which is the salt they recommend using with their system, works fine. Control the alk, ca, mg through the dosing , major and minor elements are a bonus that's included in bottles 1 and 2, I think I've read. Unique Corals carries the line.

 

[DHill6]

If you use core 7 with Refugium and algae, skimmer and gfo reactor, it's designed to run without WC unless there's a problem and you have to reset. If you decide to use the triton for other methods, you can use any means of export including wc. The other methods isn't as heavy in nutrients meant to grow the algae bed. After reading a lot of the threads and forums on Triton it seems the core 7 works on established ,older , well stocked tanks that have enough nutrients in them to sustain the algae bed.

 

[ShinyRobot]

If you use core 7 with Refugium and algae, skimmer and gfo reactor, it's designed to run without WC unless there's a problem and you have to reset. If you decide to use the triton for other methods, you can use any means of export including wc. The other methods isn't as heavy in nutrients meant to grow the algae bed. After reading a lot of the threads and forums on Triton it seems the core 7 works on established ,older , well stocked tanks that have enough nutrients in them to sustain the algae bed.

Whoa $200 in just salt is nuts! I can see why you use the other stuff!

What I don't quite understand is if the Triton Method has more nutrients for algae, wouldn't that actually be ok for my purposes since I'm running both chaeto and biopellets? If I dosed directly into my refugium wouldn't it keep the algae from starving? My apologies, I know everyone has already said that the Other Method should be used when running biopellets. Is it because the extra nutrients would just be too much for a volleyball sized ball of chaeto and wouldn't be consumed quickly enough before they got into the display?

 

[DHill6]

I don't know how to answer that question. Ionly know my conversations with Joe and what I've read, There's a forum for Triton on here where you could ask Tim, he would know more. Hope this helps

 

[DHill6]

The full triton method doesn't run biopellets, it's supposed to be a natural way of exporting. Algae fuge, skimmer, and a small amount of gfo if needed. That's my understanding of the system.

 

[DHill6]

Whoa $200 in just salt is nuts! I can see why you use the other stuff!

What I don't quite understand is if the Triton Method has more nutrients for algae, wouldn't that actually be ok for my purposes since I'm running both chaeto and biopellets? If I dosed directly into my refugium wouldn't it keep the algae from starving? My apologies, I know everyone has already said that the Other Method should be used when running biopellets. Is it because the extra nutrients would just be too much for a volleyball sized ball of chaeto and wouldn't be consumed quickly enough before they got into the display?

Volleyball size chaeto? That's huge!

 

[ShinyRobot]

Volleyball size chaeto? That's huge!

;Happy I used to have about a volleyball size of calurpa (before the pellets) but it sort of disappeared on me when I tried to trim it back. I learned later the lfs here can't even sell calurpa because it clogs the storm drains. I don't have any clogging my return and haven't seen anything in the display so I'm just growing chaeto now for copapods that my goby can eat and do other things that I'm assuming are beneficial.

Yes, to your other point Tim from Triton did give some good advice and recommended the Other Method for use with biopellets. I'm just looking for a clarification, and if the use-case I mentioned might actually work. My assumptions are that the algae food would be too much and would do more harm than good.

 

[DHill6]

The other methods has enough major and minor elements combined with the ca,mg, alk with good results. I don't mind doing a WC when needed. The dos x2, skimmer, sock and red banded trochius snails are doing most of the work.

 

[DHill6]

;Happy I used to have about a volleyball size of calurpa (before the pellets) but it sort of disappeared on me when I tried to trim it back. I learned later the lfs here can't even sell calurpa because it clogs the storm drains. I don't have any clogging my return and haven't seen anything in the display so I'm just growing chaeto now for copapods that my goby can eat and do other things that I'm assuming are beneficial.

Yes, to your other point Tim from Triton did give some good advice and recommended the Other Method for use with biopellets. I'm just looking for a clarification, and if the use-case I mentioned might actually work. My assumptions are that the algae food would be too much and would do more harm than good.

Since I was there once and ended up with a golf course, I'd say give the other methods a chance. I didn't have a fuge where the core 7 was dosed into the first section...it was a disaster. The second time was with a Pax Chaeto reactor, then I couldn't keep the chaeto alive, it was dosing after the skimmer chamber, this also didn't work for me, tank was running low nutrients. Persistence and I tried the other methods which is working. I'm not dosing anything extra unless the water analysis finds something off. I only do that every 6 mos. so far seems to be working. I'm dosing such small amounts the bottles will last quite awhile. I think this has to do with the TM Pro salt mix.

 

[ShinyRobot]

Since I was there once and ended up with a golf course, I'd say give the other methods a chance. I didn't have a fuge where the core 7 was dosed into the first section...it was a disaster. The second time was with a Pax Chaeto reactor, then I couldn't keep the chaeto alive, it was dosing after the skimmer chamber, this also didn't work for me, tank was running low nutrients. Persistence and I tried the other methods which is working. I'm not dosing anything extra unless the water analysis finds something off. I only do that every 6 mos. so far seems to be working. I'm dosing such small amounts the bottles will last quite awhile. I think this has to do with the TM Pro salt mix.

I hate to belabor this issue, so my sincere apologies - is the purpose of your water changes to remove nitrates and phosphates? Why would water changes be necessary if you have adequate nutrient export and filtration?

Yes, I will be starting with the "Other Methods" and get my parameters good - just waiting on the package from BRS to start manual dosing before I automate things with a dosing pump.

I also realize and expect that running biopellets will compete with chaeto growth, and I'm just going on the assumption that chaeto will add benefits beyond nutrient absorption (pods, breakdown after skimmer for some coral food, etc). If anyone has some info or advice on why this isn't necessary, or would not be a good way to proceed I'm all ears! ;Headphone

 

[DHill6]

My WC was due to finding heavy metal in system from water analysis. First I changed my cabinet hardware which showed rust, the tank and stand were built in Canada and I don't have a clue why they would use something that would rust. Replaced them with hinges made for boating. The next big WC was due to metals again, cracked impeller in return pump, again rust showing. My tank runs so low in nitrates/ phosphates it's not an issue. I have to dose them. Next tank will have more fish to increase load, waiting on delivery of tank and the cover. Every now and then a WC seems to be a good perk up for this tank. Corals seem to like it. Water is clear, corals growing. Only one clownfish. Presently LPS, had a total RTN issue with all SPS, water analysis showed nothing, good flow and light, go figure? All lps weren't affected.

 

[ShinyRobot]

My WC was due to finding heavy metal in system from water analysis. First I changed my cabinet hardware which showed rust, the tank and stand were built in Canada and I don't have a clue why they would use something that would rust. Replaced them with hinges made for boating. The next big WC was due to metals again, cracked impeller in return pump, again rust showing. My tank runs so low in nitrates/ phosphates it's not an issue. I have to dose them. Next tank will have more fish to increase load, waiting on delivery of tank and the cover. Every now and then a WC seems to be a good perk up for this tank. Corals seem to like it. Water is clear, corals growing. Only one clownfish. Presently LPS, had a total RTN issue with all SPS, water analysis showed nothing, good flow and light, go figure? All lps weren't affected.

Oh, gotcha I see, that is making sense now, I guess I didn't realize you were still dialing in things, but it sounds like you're on the right track. I'm wondering why your corals would perk up when there's a water change, if elements are all good and your nitrates are being exported quickly. I forget, were you running a calcium reactor or biopellets?

 

[DHill6]

I've read where biopellets strip the water too clean, many are getting away from it. Why not try just the chaeto and see if it handles your tank, you could always add alittle gfo if needed instead of the biopellets. You're using a skimmer ? Triton export is trying to keep it simple, skimmer,algae, small amount of gfo if needed.

 

[DHill6]

My export is just a sock to catch bigger particles, and skimmer. I got away from food pellets, I only feed frozen, LRS reef frenzy both the fish and coral love it. Rarely mysis, the fish won't touch it anymore. Seems they all prefer LRS. This tank is getting light dosing, the salt mix carries everything within range. TMPro 7 dkh,440 ca, 1350 mg. My CA always runs higher.

 

[ShinyRobot]

I've read where biopellets strip the water too clean, many are getting away from it. Why not try just the chaeto and see if it handles your tank, you could always add alittle gfo if needed instead of the biopellets. You're using a skimmer ? Triton export is trying to keep it simple, skimmer,algae, small amount of gfo if needed.

From what I've read the only thing that biopellets strip is nitrates, which I'm not sure is a bad thing, right? I don't think they strip anything else but I'm not sure about that. I'm running CoralVue BioSphere pellets btw, which I'm sure the type of pellets used can have a big impact.

If I want some dirt in my tank I can always reduce the amount of biopellets that are in the reactor and reduce its flow so not as much water goes through them. So far my tank still has algae that continues to grow on the glass and some buildup in the piping and hair algae still likes to grow in my refugium area (no more in the display though). Things are still getting settled though - I started adding a very small amount of biopellets several months ago and slowly increased the number to where I have about 1.5 cups for about 130 - 150 gallons of water. It's still a bit lower than what they normally recommend but I'm trying to keep from adding cyano or other uglies, which I got briefly the first couple weeks as things were starting to settle out.

My shipment of the "other methods" along with a test kit will be here next week. I will start dosing manually so that I can get a feel for how it impacts things, and when CA, Mg, Alk levels are where they need to be I'll send in a test. That's my plan anyways

 

[DHill6]

From what I've read the only thing that biopellets strip is nitrates, which I'm not sure is a bad thing, right? I don't think they strip anything else but I'm not sure about that. I'm running CoralVue BioSphere pellets btw, which I'm sure the type of pellets used can have a big impact.

If I want some dirt in my tank I can always reduce the amount of biopellets that are in the reactor and reduce its flow so not as much water goes through them. So far my tank still has algae that continues to grow on the glass and some buildup in the piping and hair algae still likes to grow in my refugium area (no more in the display though). Things are still getting settled though - I started adding a very small amount of biopellets several months ago and slowly increased the number to where I have about 1.5 cups for about 130 - 150 gallons of water. It's still a bit lower than what they normally recommend but I'm trying to keep from adding cyano or other uglies, which I got briefly the first couple weeks as things were starting to settle out.

My shipment of the "other methods" along with a test kit will be here next week. I will start dosing manually so that I can get a feel for how it impacts things, and when CA, Mg, Alk levels are where they need to be I'll send in a test. That's my plan anyways

Good Luck!

 

[ShinyRobot]

Good Luck!

You as well! Sounds like you're on the right track to stable parameters!