Triton phosphorus - odd P result!

BCSreef

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I received Triton results last week. Typical, except for tin, iron and iodine a little high and the always high lithium from salt mix. However, result for P is 225 ug/l or roughly 225 ppb. My Hanna phosphorus ULR shows 4 ppb today and has consistently read <10 ppb for the last year (2 different batches of reagent). NO3 always <0.25 ppm (LaMotte NO3 kit). Tank is 180 gallon (380 gallon plus sumps) SPS dominant. Heavy feeding 2X per day, lots of fish. No nuisance algae except for slight film on glass every 3-5 days. Corals look great and growing fast.

Back in May, Triton P result was 8.1 ug/l.

Back in April, Triton P was 351 ug/l!!!!

I really have trouble believing the Triton P results. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Bob
 
How much green algae grows?
 
Zero, except a light coating on glass after 3-5 days. Caulerpa in refugium grows fast. I remove about 1/2 gallon a week.
 
Zero, except a light coating on glass after 3-5 days. Caulerpa in refugium grows fast. I remove about 1/2 gallon a week.

If caulerpas growing fast, there is a steady supply of po4. And id be inclined to believe triton. Hows the coral growth?
 
Be careful with caulerpa, I've heard about them killing off tanks when they reproduce. I don't know anything about Triton and am not chasing parameters so I can't help with the rest lol
 
My experience with Triton's results for P is very good. It seems to be one of the more reliable results of everything they test. Doesn't mean there couldn't be error though.
 
Agree, there is a PO4 supply and an NO3 supply despite the low colormetric test numbers. However, I believe the uptake of both exceeds that supply in the water column. Otherwise, I think I would see problems with corals and algae overgrowth. I've been there a few times with far lower PO4 numbers.

Great growth rates for coral. Again, suggests P and "fixed" N supplies. Given the heavy feeding, I think particulates (food, fish waste, microbes, pods., etc.) are supplying most of their P, N and other needs.

I'm not inclined to just accept the Triton results. It just doesn't add up.

Perhaps I took the sample for Triton after disturbing the "mud" bed in the Caulerpa refugium, which resulted in a transient PO4 dump into the water column. Next time I take a Triton sample, I'll also test for P using the Hanna kit from the exact same sample.

I'm not worried since all is well, but just want to understand.

I'm curious, has anyone else obtained Triton P numbers as high as I have received?
 
Be careful with caulerpa, I've heard about them killing off tanks when they reproduce. I don't know anything about Triton and am not chasing parameters so I can't help with the rest lol

Thanks, I know it can be deadly! It is hard to get rid of once you get it. I keep a close eye on it, keep it well trimmed back and have not had issues in over 20 years. Except when it took over the display tank. Fixed that with tangs.:)
 
My experience with Triton's results for P is very good. It seems to be one of the more reliable results of everything they test. Doesn't mean there couldn't be error though.

Thanks Jason. Good to know. I have a few more Tritons and will retest in a few months and will re-post.
 
I would not believe the results on the PO. Nothing is 100% accurate in this hobby or science. If your Hanna is reading that low and based on your lack of algae growth your probably fine. However, if you where doing something during taking the sample that could have increased the phosphate prior to tank its always a possibility.
 
I would not believe the results on the PO. Nothing is 100% accurate in this hobby or science. If your Hanna is reading that low and based on your lack of algae growth your probably fine. However, if you where doing something during taking the sample that could have increased the phosphate prior to tank its always a possibility.

Ashish, I agree. I develop, validate & perform sensitive immunoassays for a living. When I see a "funny" number, my first suspicion is the assay or the tech sampling or running the assay.

I am normally quite careful when sampling at work and in the reef. I always sample the tank same time each day and midway between any water changes or other "big" events. However, it could have been due to sampling errors on the tech (me :().
 
After awhile you'll just know when your nutrients are out of wack based on coloration and algae.. Testing your tank is worthless if you can't interpret the results based on whats going on inside your tank. Lucky for you, you have common sense and won't be adding a ton of GFO into your system.:D
 
I received the Triton results a week or two ago; they showed 0's for nutrient group (P and PO4) and I measured .049 on the Hanna ULR. Both samples were taken at the same time. I don't know what to believe as accurate but everything looks fine so I'm not changing anything regardless. I suspect it was just error.

35238503213_0f551d5ecc_b.jpg
 
After awhile you'll just know when your nutrients are out of wack based on coloration and algae.. Testing your tank is worthless if you can't interpret the results based on whats going on inside your tank. Lucky for you, you have common sense and won't be adding a ton of GFO into your system.:D

I have always placed a premium on the "looks" of the tank. No algae and corals look great. I think one of the best quick PO4/NO3 tests is your front glass.
 
I received the Triton results a week or two ago; they showed 0's for nutrient group (P and PO4) and I measured .049 on the Hanna ULR. Both samples were taken at the same time. I don't know what to believe as accurate but everything looks fine so I'm not changing anything regardless. I suspect it was just error.

35238503213_0f551d5ecc_b.jpg
I wouldn't change a thing if all is well! I know, i'm not.

Triton reports 0 on some parameters. They really should report < the minimum detection limits of the test. I don't know what those are.

Thanks for the feedback!
 
Thanks, I know it can be deadly! It is hard to get rid of once you get it. I keep a close eye on it, keep it well trimmed back and have not had issues in over 20 years. Except when it took over the display tank. Fixed that with tangs.:)

Wow really? I like the look of it but thought every so often it exploded lol. Had no clue you could just keep it trimmed. Thanks :)
 
1ppm = 1000ppb

So 351ppb is .351 ppm no? Thats believable to me
 
Wow really? I like the look of it but thought every so often it exploded lol. Had no clue you could just keep it trimmed. Thanks :)

I keep it trimmed both for nutrient export and to keep the mass down in case of an "explosion". I get rid of about 50% of it a week. From what I have read, it will go sexual and die off when given a normal light cycle ( near 12 on/12 off). I'm not sure how accurate that info is. I have kept my refugium lit 24/7 up until the last year. I switched to 20 on 4 off to cut the pH peak down a bit. No explosions yet. Fingers crossed!
 
1ppm = 1000ppb

So 351ppb is .351 ppm no? Thats believable to me

Your math is right on and correct and the result is believable. Note that the results are reported as total phosphorus and not PO4. ICP-OES cannot measure PO4 directly. PO4 reported is a calculated value. Multiply that P number by about 3 to get PO4. I may have next to no PO4 and instead have other forms of P that do not contribute to algae growth.

Regardless, one P test is way off. Wish I knew which one. Do I believe the result from the $49 instrument or the $100,000 one???? Although, I'm not sure it matters. I'm not changing anything. Just happy to have a healthy reef!
 
I took a Hanna test at 0.28ppm at exactly the same time I took a sample to go off to Triton. Triton came back at 0.13ppm. No idea which to believe to be honest.
 

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