Triton Test Results

Dreamin_Reefer

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So, I recently sent a sample to Triton because I am losing SPS & LPS corals. Even some of my Zoas higher in the tank look unhealthy (losing color & staying closed). I’m looking for anyone that has experience with Triton or ICP-OES testing & how to really read and use these results.

The Triton results are attached or available for your viewing pleasure here:

https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/54235/

My problems started in December, SPS bleaching, then Montis started and then some Zoas.

Before that the only major thing that changed in the tank was that I added a Mainepure Bioblock in November. I have since (3 weeks ago, & 2 weeks before the Triton Test) removed this from the tank. Since then I have changed a total of 15 gallons (one 10 gal & one 5 gal change).

The tank is a 29 Biocube, with a 2o gal Trigger cube sump.

I was dosing 9 ML of ESV B-Ionic 2 part per day - I cut that in half about a month ago because tests showed calcium and ALK (ALK reached high 11’s at one point) was slowly climbing. Probably due to no new growth.

Here are some of the parameters:
Average PH: 7.8 - I've considered getting a CO2 scrubber, but this has been stable at that number, even when everything was thriving...
AVG temp: 75-76.5
Avg. dKH: 11 (using Hanah checker)
SG: 1.026
Using BRS ROX .8 Carbon - 5 TBS, changed biweekly

Using Aquaforest Reef Salt, was changing 5 gallons every 2 weeks on average. SINCE i started having problems, I’ve escalated to 5 or 10 gallons per week, which seems to be helping.

My lighting is a GroupBuy LED, CREE Lumia 5.2, with 4 UV chips supplementing those. - I have the controller dialed to about 50% or less on most channels (I can get exact details when I get home). This has not changed in 2 years and had been successful. on at 11:30am (95-minute ramp up), & at 8:30pm starts a 90-minute ramp down.

I am slightly concerned about the elevated Al, Li & Fe. I plan to break down every piece of equipment and check thoroughly for rust. Any advice on these levels are greatly appreciated. I have read a few threads that ague the Heavy metal readings that Triton show.

I am slightly more concerned about the iodine reading 0 & the low phosphate levels. My very limited knowledge is that iodine is critical in protecting coral tissue. I have been battling Bubble algae and I am wondering how much is being consumed by the algae when I do water changes. I'm ordering an iodine test kit and Brightwell Lugol’s, but I'm concerned that I'm only going to feed the algae.

Any help is greatly appreciated- & I look forward to the responses.

If I left anything out- I'll try to get the info as quickly as possible. Thanks for the help!
 

Attachments

tagging along. I'm interested to hear what people think on this one. Your results don't look too bad although I don't know how much of an impact the couple that are out of line have.

I'm wondering if this is more of a bacteria problem vs a water chemistry problem. Wondering if removing the marine block removed too much helpful bacteria, etc.

I lost a number of corals in a new frag tank I set up and it seemed to me to be an issue of the ecosystem not being mature enough vs any specific water chemistry.
 
Where are your nitrates at? At first sight, sounds like a low nutrient/high alk issue to me. The marine pure block probably increased your nutrient export somewhat.
 
Aluminum is among the higher that I've seen. Are you using any white media?

Potassium is low and I'd raise it.

Nothing else looks to be a big problem.

i doubt the iodine is a concern, but it is easy to dose it and see if there's a benefit
 
Aluminum is among the higher that I've seen. Are you using any white media?

Potassium is low and I'd raise it.

Nothing else looks to be a big problem.

i doubt the iodine is a concern, but it is easy to dose it and see if there's a benefit

Is there any proven Scientific fact that the Marine Pure Blocks are leaching aluminum into the water? I've read it and I've heard it a lot lately, to the point on my rebuild, I decided NOT to use that product and went with 20 lbs of Seachem Pond size matrix. On the other hand I hear so many great things about the Marine Pure, that it just makes me wonder. It would be great for BRS TV to do a study and possibly put this myth to rest once and for all. This weekend a local store was even telling there customers that there was an "Imposter Marine Pure" that was the real culprit. Until I see science on this, I'm assuming that the Marine Pure Blocks are as great as people say.
 
Is there any proven Scientific fact that the Marine Pure Blocks are leaching aluminum into the water? I've read it and I've heard it a lot lately, to the point on my rebuild, I decided NOT to use that product and went with 20 lbs of Seachem Pond size matrix. On the other hand I hear so many great things about the Marine Pure, that it just makes me wonder. It would be great for BRS TV to do a study and possibly put this myth to rest once and for all. This weekend a local store was even telling there customers that there was an "Imposter Marine Pure" that was the real culprit. Until I see science on this, I'm assuming that the Marine Pure Blocks are as great as people say.

Why a rant on Marine Pure? It wasn't even mentioned in this thread? There are lots of different types of white media. :(

That said, if you want science, you came to the right place. Yes, it has been shown both here and by BRS that white media can release aluminum.
 
Aluminium does look pretty high....Rowaphos removes aluminium I believe? Randy will be able to tell you more.
 
Aluminium does look pretty high....Rowaphos removes aluminium I believe? Randy will be able to tell you more.

I've seen that claim and I think it arose from Triton claims. It may well be true, but I've not seen the underlying data.
 
Why a rant on Marine Pure? It wasn't even mentioned in this thread? There are lots of different types of white media. :(

That said, if you want science, you came to the right place. Yes, it has been shown both here and by BRS that white media can release aluminum.

Sorry Randy, he mentioned he added it, then pulled it out of the system, so I was just adding to his statement about the product, and was wondering about the truth in it. Thank you for clearing up that there is "Science on it"
 
Sorry Randy, he mentioned he added it, then pulled it out of the system, so I was just adding to his statement about the product, and was wondering about the truth in it. Thank you for clearing up that there is "Science on it"

Oh, I didn't even see that he mentioned it. That's why i was asking him in general. Sorry. :D
 
Nitrates have been hovering around/<2, but I haven’t checked daily like I should while this is going on...

I forgot to add that I use Purigen as well.

I feed the tank:
Reef-Roids - 1x per week.
New Life Spectrum pellets- Daily adding Selcon every other day
Piscine Energetics, Calanus: 1 cube, every other day.
Occasionally – I’ll feed some Reef Nutrition - ROE or Oyster-Feast

& occupants other than coral are:
2 Clowns, (Bonnie and Clyde) – 2.5 years old, seem happy and are spawning every few weeks.
1 mandarin goby – Had for 8 months now, seems healthy.
CuC of various snails.


I lost a Diamond Goby in December, but Bonnie and Clyde are the culprits for that. They became relentless when they starting spawning and I couldn’t get him a new home quick enough.
In the past year I've had trouble keeping shrimp and Mathrix crabs.
Yes I def had Marine pure in the sump and I removed it after I found some horror storries.

Thank you all for the input!!
 
Al is no bueno. Are you using any Aluminum rods to hold your reefscape together?

No, no Aluminum rods.

Aluminum is among the higher that I've seen. Are you using any white media?

Potassium is low and I'd raise it.

Nothing else looks to be a big problem.

i doubt the iodine is a concern, but it is easy to dose it and see if there's a benefit

MarinePure bio block, now gone (I need to get the remnants, A few small pieces broke apart pulling it out). I managed to get all of the large pieces out.
Other than that, just Purigen and the BRS ROX Carbon.

I ordered the RedSea colors test kit, so that should include the Potassium test to get me started there. Is there a potassium supplement that you recommend?


I'll work on a water change tomorrow, this time from the sump, and try to make sure i vac the bottom out really well.


Is there an effective aluminum test kit that can be used for marine tanks? or is my best bet to follow water changes religiously and redo the Triton at some point in the near future? I had not intended on making ICP-OES a regular thing, I just felt like I was running out of ideas on what may be happening…
 
You might try GFO to drop the aluminum

There's no test for it except ICP, and I'm not sure it will do anything except irritate soft corals.

Food grade potassium chloride from amazon or iherb or such places is a cheap and easy way to boost potassium.
 

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