Tropic Marin All-For-Reef: Any downsides to it?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kengar
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
I have been using AFR in my 135 Gallon system for 6 months now. Mostly LPS, some softies, and a few SPS. Works great! The one thing to watch for is on larger systems depending on your coral mix, you could use/need more Ca than the ratio in AFT. I have been two part dosing AFT and Carbo-Ca to see if I can get a decent balance. So far it is working out well. Admittedly I could do this cheaper. For me it's eliminating a risk factor, me. For the near future I will continue this path. As for the AFT brown/rusty color in the dosing container. I have noticed it. When I add more and stir it around, it goes back into solution. Same thing with the white precipitate in the Carbo-Ca. Hope that helps.
 
Will this stuff also feed algae?
It does contain trace elements, some of which can be used by algae, but I dont think you can view it as supplementing trace just maintaining. The small carbon dosing effect could also have a slight effect on algae.

Big picture though, it probably wont effect algae much. Start slowly and ramp up. Maybe if you're using a ton of it.
 
I really like the stuff, Everything has seemed to perk up and getting consistent levels when testing. I only have a 28 gal, and used 5ml a day. Thanks for the reminder, need to order another bottle this week :)
 
I’ve been using All-For-Reef on my Waterbox 20 build. It’s a newer tank with Acans, Favia, Favites, and Leptos. So far so good! I have it paired with a Kamoer X1 Micro Pump dosing 4ml a day.

0E5D38B9-C816-46A2-AA7C-6DA6DF9043B7.jpeg
 
Just saw this thread but did not read through it all - not going to lie. Juts wanted to say that the only "real" negative side effect of using TM AFR is the price. To clarify the price only comes into play with larger systems / tanks.

Note: There is a DIY recipe that will negate this and make it affordable even for larger systems. BRS sub forum has the recipe list and a few Questions and Answers from TM. My recommendation is that if you are considering using this product for a large system (I am for my 210 gallon mixed reef) go the DIY route. Both parties (hobbyist and TM) will come out ahead.

Enjoy.
 
Just saw this thread but did not read through it all - not going to lie. Juts wanted to say that the only "real" negative side effect of using TM AFR is the price. To clarify the price only comes into play with larger systems / tanks.

Note: There is a DIY recipe that will negate this and make it affordable even for larger systems. BRS sub forum has the recipe list and a few Questions and Answers from TM. My recommendation is that if you are considering using this product for a large system (I am for my 210 gallon mixed reef) go the DIY route. Both parties (hobbyist and TM) will come out ahead.

Enjoy.

BRS actually sells the DIY as a kit now :) that's what I'm doing when I restock next.
 
That kit looks like a good deal. The 10 liter version comes out to less than $12 per 1000ml if you mix it yourself.
 
Hi all, looking for some help here. Do you need to get your parameters in check/ balanced before starting all for reef? For example, if mag is low do you need to bring it up since everything is balanced in AFR? Thanks!
 
Hi all, looking for some help here. Do you need to get your parameters in check/ balanced before starting all for reef? For example, if mag is low do you need to bring it up since everything is balanced in AFR? Thanks!

That's the way I understood it from my research and the practice I followed before beginning, it has remained stable since then for me.
 
The brs kit costs more than just buying the components from brs separately

lame right
 
The brs kit costs more than just buying the components from brs separately

lame right

Definitely lame! I'll have the team here double check all of the pricing. The kit price should be the same as if you were to buy everything individually. The idea behind the kit was so that you could click order on one "item" rather than hunt down all of the components. By my math, it looks like the "kit" price is $3.00 above the cost of buying everything separate.
 
Hey I have a question about AFR I’m deciding between that and BRS two part. When you dose AFR do you really have to wait a day to test your ALK since they use something that breaks down over a period of time to affect ALK? If so, how do you actually dose correctly if you have to wait a day?
 
Hey I have a question about AFR I’m deciding between that and BRS two part. When you dose AFR do you really have to wait a day to test your ALK since they use something that breaks down over a period of time to affect ALK? If so, how do you actually dose correctly if you have to wait a day?

You measure 24 hours after adding and then increase your dose if needed
 
I've been using AFR for a couple weeks and really like it. Granted I dose a 20 gallon Waterbox Cube without high demand at the moment.

But I feel like a public service announcement needs to be made. Looking at now page three of questions on what it is, how it works, how to dose, and how it compares with two part, I think it needs to be said you really need to understand two part dosing before jumping in with AFR or Carbo-Calcium. All For Reef is maintenance dosing, not for individual point adjustments to Alk, Ca, Mg.

If you've mastered two part dosing (or three when you add in mag) then switching to AFR or Carbo-Calcium should be no big deal. You already know how to accurately measure and gauge the uptake of your tank. You understand why you run the DKH level you do, how nutrients play a role in the proper Alk to Ca to Mg ratios, and decided on a salt mix that matches your target parameters.

I could be crazy here, too. I'm sure some people are thinking "Hey I'll buy All For Reef and magic will happen." It's a bit more than that, and it's not complicated.

1. Get your Alk, Ca, and Mg stable at the level you want to run your tank at.
2. Dose AFR once a day, twice if you understand all this and the impact of doing so.
3. Make dosing adjustments based on Alk, not calcium, not magnesium.
4. Test your Alk at the same time of day, 24 hours after dosing.
5. If Alk is dropping, increase your dose. If Alk is rising, lower your dose. I may see a 0.1ppm to 0.2ppm fluctuation between testing and I adjust the dose accordingly.
6. If Alk dropped or raised dramatically, like near 1 point or more, I suggest not dosing AFR because consumption was not stable to begin with and you need to get back in check before maintenance dosing. Or use two part individually to bring values back in check, then monitor and adjust accordingly.

Sorry if anyone takes this as a rant. I'm really trying to help coach you on what I've learned and how I apply AFR to my tank.
 
I've been using AFR for a couple weeks and really like it. Granted I dose a 20 gallon Waterbox Cube without high demand at the moment.

But I feel like a public service announcement needs to be made. Looking at now page three of questions on what it is, how it works, how to dose, and how it compares with two part, I think it needs to be said you really need to understand two part dosing before jumping in with AFR or Carbo-Calcium. All For Reef is maintenance dosing, not for individual point adjustments to Alk, Ca, Mg.

If you've mastered two part dosing (or three when you add in mag) then switching to AFR or Carbo-Calcium should be no big deal. You already know how to accurately measure and gauge the uptake of your tank. You understand why you run the DKH level you do, how nutrients play a role in the proper Alk to CA to MG ratios, and decided on a salt mix that matches your target parameters.

I could be crazy here, too. I'm sure some people are thinking "Hey I'll buy All For Reef and magic will happen." It's a bit more than that, and it's not complicated.

1. Get your Alk, Ca, and Mg stable at the level you want to run your tank at.
2. Dose AFR once a day, twice if you understand all this and the impact of doing so.
3. Make dosing adjustments based on Alk, not calcium, not magnesium.
4. Test your Alk at the same time of day, 24 hours after dosing.
5. If Alk is dropping, increase your dose. If Alk is rising, lower your dose.
6. If Alk dropped or raised dramatically, like near 1 point or more, I suggest not dosing AFR because consumption was not stable to begin with and you need to get back in check before maintenance dosing.

Sorry if anyone takes this as a rant. I'm really trying to help coach you on what I've learned and how I apply AFR to my tank.
This really helps I think I’m just gonna start with BRS two part and move on to this eventually.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top