Trouble With Yellows

[ChrisQ0904]

I have a WWC Honeycomb, Pink Lemonade, and a Pikachu that were all yellow for several months then all of a sudden they all decided they wanted to turn green and the Pikachu is heading towards the brown color now. All my other colors seem to be doing just fine. This is a 80g (total system) tank with and old 8bulb ATI Powermodule (No leds on the fixture) and I have some supplement Leds that are outside the fixture. The tank has 9 fish and are fed daily and I also feed reef roids and oyster feast a few times a week.

Lighting:

Leds run from 8:00 - 22:00
2 bulbs T5 from 9:30 - 21:00
The other 6 T5 bulbs from 13:30 - 17:30

Parameters:

P04 - 0 (Hanna low range)
N03 - 0 (salifert)
Alk - 9.1 (Hanna)
CA - 400 (currently bringing up) (Avg between red sea and Salifert)
MG - 1250 (currently bringing up) (red sea)
PH - 7.9 - 8.02 (Apex)

Filtration:

Vertex Omega 150 skimmer
Filter socks
Aquaforest GFO
Aquaforest Carbon

I am running my tank following the aquaforest program and am supplementing the big 3 with their component 1+ 2+ 3+ and daily dosing of ABEV. I am also doing a 10G WC biweekly, the corals held their yellow color when I started aquaforest a while ago and just recently started loosing their yellow.

I also discovered one of my corals had AEFW bit marks (ORA Chips) so naturally I did a bayer dip and a few fell off, I dipped a second coral and none came off but I dont see any bite marks on any of the other pieces. This weekend I will be dipping every coral though.

 

[cjd]

Yellows turning green mean high iron , browning could mean to much nutrients.

https://reefbuilders.com/2008/09/03/guide-of-sps-coral-coloration-make-them-more-vivid-bright/

 

[Highgrade]

Yellows turning green mean high iron , browning could mean to much nutrients.

+1 on the iron/nutrients Sounds like you have the correct lighting. I have all 3 of those corals and their placement is at the highest point in the tank. I run ATI T5 with Kessil A160's 100% Mine are about 10in from the lights in order to stay yellow. Any lower and they start to turn green.

 

[ChrisQ0904]

Hmmm component 1+ has iron in it and I have been needing to increase the dose to keep up with my CA and MG consumption.

So, in theory with this product I can't increase CA and MG without increasing iron. I started off with maybe 10-15ml daily but consumption keeps increasing and now I'm at 25ml daily and may even need to increase that. I wonder if that's the culprit and if I would need to stop using component 123 which is their version of the balling method.

 

[cjd]

Aquaforest has a separate cal, mag and alk without the added elements. I would be concerned if I was getting too much iron what other heavy metals are building up in my system? It goes with the saying ....don't add what you can't test for. I am not familiar with their products , hopefully someone will chime in .

 

[ChrisQ0904]

Aquaforest has a separate cal, mag and alk without the added elements. I would be concerned if I was getting too much iron what other heavy metals are building up in my system? It goes with the saying ....don't add what you can't test for. I am not familiar with their products , hopefully someone will chime in .

Ya I am strongly considering switching to their powder to just dose CA, ALK, and MG

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I have noted corals turning green under too much blue. If D Riddle is correct and coloration is a form of sunscreen, then the overdose of a single or narrow frequency could result in coloration changes as as a single carotenoid is being overstimulated..
I shortened the Period slightly and lowered the intensity(with a lux meter) of the blue leds.
Fwiw I run 6am to 10pm still. On this tank, One of my supplemental blue leds had malfunctioned and was coming on at 430 am. Good thing for insomnia.
On the other tank It was noted, corals were shaded from the MH and received almost only the led.