Trying a new battle axe against algae
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ShawnSaucier
Well-Known Member
I would have the LFS use a TDS meter in front of you, of course ask in a way without being rude. Or just buy an RO/DI unit, always good sales going on and usually have a TDS built in. That way you know what you are getting for water. And it's always on hand if needed. Nassarius snails won't do much for you on your rocks, get some Ceriths, turbos and some other grazers. Hermits will help out too. Your Melenarus will pick them off slowly, but if you get a large amount, ( 100 snails, 50 hermit)it'll give them time to help before they get thinned out. Maybe look at some conchs for your sand bed. They really do wonders, I've got 6 in mine and they are always working.
Wet / dry skimming all depends on how you tune your skimmer.(air intake) I like my skimmate to end up the color of a dark iced tea. If your skimmate is ending up lighter it means it is wetter, more water than waste. Sometimes just a small adjustment can make a huge difference.
How are you feeding your nori? Tied to a rock, drop it and forget it? I was doing that to, and found that there was a ton of waste, and I was going through bags quickly. Innovative Marine has a cool new grazer that traps the nori sheet in a grid type holder that looks very promising. I've been using the New Era Marine Grazer rings. It's a compact nori ring that attaches to a suction cup. I'll put it in for a few hours every other day. When I take it out, I'll let what is not eaten dry for a day, then put it back in the next day. Just got to remember to not leave it in all day or it will break up, fall and rot in some rocks. Which is what I found was happening with the sheets of nori.
The RW15 sound like a good powerhead, but you only have flow from one direction. I mentioned how much flow I have in my tank, this is coming from 6 different positions, hitting the rock work from the front, sides, behind and above. I have two tunze 6105s behind my scape and down low pushing through the rocks and up for surface agitation, two tunze 6090s higher up just above the scape, all four on a controller. My XP150 is pushing from right to left on a 2 minute cycle of forward and reverse and then my return has a flow accelerator with a rotating outlet. Nothing is at 100%, but there is not a visible piece of rock that does not have good flow. I have gotten to the point where I can turkey Baister blast the rocks once a week, and there is not much build up at all.
So I would say get a large cuc and a RO/DI unit, then start shopping for some powerheads. Your tangs will love the flow too. Get to turkey Baister blasting and change your socks two or three times a week to start. Run some Rowaphos in a reactor if you can, or in a bag. But the MR-1 reactors aren't to $$$, and worth having. Maybe start looking at bigger sump options also. I know it sound like $$$$$ , but as your tank matures, corals grow, fish increase, coral tastes get more expensive, you'll be thankful you spent the money now to make the bones of your system bigger, stronger and more available to upgrades as you need them. It's better to have the room to add, then trying to play catch up
Looking forward to seeing some pics
Wet / dry skimming all depends on how you tune your skimmer.(air intake) I like my skimmate to end up the color of a dark iced tea. If your skimmate is ending up lighter it means it is wetter, more water than waste. Sometimes just a small adjustment can make a huge difference.
How are you feeding your nori? Tied to a rock, drop it and forget it? I was doing that to, and found that there was a ton of waste, and I was going through bags quickly. Innovative Marine has a cool new grazer that traps the nori sheet in a grid type holder that looks very promising. I've been using the New Era Marine Grazer rings. It's a compact nori ring that attaches to a suction cup. I'll put it in for a few hours every other day. When I take it out, I'll let what is not eaten dry for a day, then put it back in the next day. Just got to remember to not leave it in all day or it will break up, fall and rot in some rocks. Which is what I found was happening with the sheets of nori.
The RW15 sound like a good powerhead, but you only have flow from one direction. I mentioned how much flow I have in my tank, this is coming from 6 different positions, hitting the rock work from the front, sides, behind and above. I have two tunze 6105s behind my scape and down low pushing through the rocks and up for surface agitation, two tunze 6090s higher up just above the scape, all four on a controller. My XP150 is pushing from right to left on a 2 minute cycle of forward and reverse and then my return has a flow accelerator with a rotating outlet. Nothing is at 100%, but there is not a visible piece of rock that does not have good flow. I have gotten to the point where I can turkey Baister blast the rocks once a week, and there is not much build up at all.
So I would say get a large cuc and a RO/DI unit, then start shopping for some powerheads. Your tangs will love the flow too. Get to turkey Baister blasting and change your socks two or three times a week to start. Run some Rowaphos in a reactor if you can, or in a bag. But the MR-1 reactors aren't to $$$, and worth having. Maybe start looking at bigger sump options also. I know it sound like $$$$$ , but as your tank matures, corals grow, fish increase, coral tastes get more expensive, you'll be thankful you spent the money now to make the bones of your system bigger, stronger and more available to upgrades as you need them. It's better to have the room to add, then trying to play catch up
Looking forward to seeing some pics
rsyver
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+1 on getting your own RODI unit. A big plus is having water on hand for emergencies. It's a bit of an investment up front but is cheaper in the long run. At a minimum I would make sure to test the water you're getting from the LFS.
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crock921
Community Member
So I have a rodi, but the guy had it plumbed from his sink as an ATO. I don't have plumbing near my tank, so I need to get the fittings to use it on a sink instead.
As far as a cuc, I have about 20 hermits and an emerald along with a bunch of snails. I wanted the nassarius to turn the sand. I do have a large conch in there as well. The return line flows from the left with a splitter and the powerhead is on the right side wall. Soon I will add another on the left wall and put them to alternate.
As far as a cuc, I have about 20 hermits and an emerald along with a bunch of snails. I wanted the nassarius to turn the sand. I do have a large conch in there as well. The return line flows from the left with a splitter and the powerhead is on the right side wall. Soon I will add another on the left wall and put them to alternate.
Marc.The.Shark
Active Member
Get a TDS meter 1st thing. Less than 10 bucks on Amazon or ebay. I used store bought RO years ago and was having issues as well. After months, tested the store water & it was horrible. Like Shawn says, start at the source 1st before throwing a bunch of chemicals at it. Who knows when they change their filters at the store. Is it a LFS or a grocery store RO machine? Cause the RO machines are the worst
I think the Clean Up Crew aka CUC need to be enhanced if you only have some nassarius snails.
Go here www.Reefcleaners.org and John will get you setup with a big crew to help with the algae.
Go here www.Reefcleaners.org and John will get you setup with a big crew to help with the algae.
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crock921
Community Member
I definitely want more snails. I wanted a diamond goby to sift sand but ended up with an orange spotted. He's a bum! Never moves. I will ask the shop to see a tds today.
Do you guys like the brs dual reactor, or think go only? I like the idea of both, but may not need carbon with the skimmer. It is a big eshopps btw. Not sure the model. The skimmate is pretty dark brown. Sludgy looking and stinky as all getup
Do you guys like the brs dual reactor, or think go only? I like the idea of both, but may not need carbon with the skimmer. It is a big eshopps btw. Not sure the model. The skimmate is pretty dark brown. Sludgy looking and stinky as all getup
ShawnSaucier
Well-Known Member
When I lived in an apartment, I had used a y connector with valves ($5 @ HD)and split the cold water going to my washer. My waste water line I just ran into the drain. It would take about 10 minutes for a 5 gallon bucket, but always set a timer.
I would change out all of the filters and RO membrane on your unit, as you may not know how old or used the ones you have are. Salty Supply, BRS, or spectra pure always have sales on replacement filters.
As far as the sump, you can always build one outside the stand. I had a friend that was in the same situation, he took an old steam trunk ( think treasure chest) put a 60g tank for a sump, 10 gallon for ATO in the trunk. Plumbed it to the system and used the 20g ish sump as a fuge. Drained from the tank, to the sump in the chest, returned to sump/fuge in stand and back up to the tank. It was great for him , and a place to sit next to the tank. Ingenious I thought.
ShawnSaucier
Well-Known Member
I like single reactors for each bit. Yeah it's seems simple to have a dual, but I feel I get more control on flow with a single. Plus, I can take one out if not needed.
Not sure on the skimmer model, maybe open it up a little more for the time being. I get thick sludge around the neck of the cup, and then a dark stinky watery tea skimmate in mine
Not sure on the skimmer model, maybe open it up a little more for the time being. I get thick sludge around the neck of the cup, and then a dark stinky watery tea skimmate in mine
rsyver
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I'm not sure where your tank is located but the idea of having a sump outside of your stand can be a great idea, as already mentioned. I've plumbed mine into the basement (that helps with a lot of issues). I just saw a post somewhere of an entertainment center stand being used for a sump and quarantine tanks (which would work well for certain situations). Also, don't think that your sump has to be in a single container. Running one tank for a refugium and another for your pumps, heaters, dosers, etc could be an easy way to add volume and functionality. Even the thought of a display refugium outside your stand could add some water volume and another cool aspect to your tank.
Three words, Algae Turf Scrubber! works, way cheaper then reactors and media, save your hard earned money for livestock. I have a 400 gallon tank a 50 gallon rubbermaid stock tank with an algae scrubber and some cheato a pump that might pump 500 to 600 gallons per hour if im lucky. Pulled my skimmer out for cleaning two weeks ago and it's still out.
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petemichelle
Well-Known Member
i have used and am still using the red sea NOPOX nitrate and phosphate remover. I started with a 30 gal biocube and now have a 150 gal tank and a 30 gal sump. first off, if you read the NOPOX direction, it tells you if you dose daily, you can't keep cheato or any other plants in the refugium. won't work. I tried... they just die... not enough nutrients for them to stay living. especially when you get your system reading the recommended nitrate and phosphate. I think the nitrate recommendation from red sea is 2-5 and phosphate is .02-.08. I do however run a phosphate reactor with 4 cups of gfo in it, that I change every other month. I run carbon in my other reactor. don't get the dual, get 2 singles. works better. promise...
it your system is over taken currently, get some phosphate absorber and run it in the reactor, but read the directions because after like I think 3 days, it will start to release it back into your system. also, at the same time, I do 3 days to 5 ays of darkness. and I mean complete darkness. I have my tank in my office and I shut everything up for that time. otherwise when i had my bio cube in the living area. I put a blanket over it and left the back open for air. but the point is no light at all. that should kill everything, especially the long hair algae. if you have red cyano, then you have to do Chemi clean. give the recommended dose, wait 48 hours, give another dose, and do a 20 percent water change after 24 hours. follow the directions though, run a skimmer but you will have to adjust it and watch it because it foams like crazy, but that's okay because during that time the water needs the extra oxygen. it works really well with cyano.. but anyway back to the process. after the initial 3-5 days of darkness and chemi-clean if needed. you should be pretty good to start. use the NOPOX as directed to start. Keep testing every 4 days or so, and make adjustments accordingly. Using a doser is best. you should really consider getting one, because of the other stuff like calcium, and alkalinity, that you will need to be adding. it makes life really easier. plus it makes adjusting and adding the NOPOX a breeze. I am currently dosing 16ml per day and My tank is named packed with corals, I have like 10 large fish, tangs, clowns etc... but no plants at all in my refugium. In fact I have it completely dark in my refugium.
I run Red Sea NOPOX
I have a skimmer
I run a phosphate reactor
that's it, it works...
oh also, clean your glass every day, I mean every day. the snails and clean up crew need to clean your rock and sand, not your glasses. that's your job. also once a week I clean the back glass and plastic overflow covers with a stick that has something like felt on it. takes 10 minutes. you don't need to scrub just run the felt over the glass to make sure there's not build up. sometimes I get green stuff on the pad. the idea of this is to not let anything build up and get a footing. once it does , it's a pain to get it out.
it your system is over taken currently, get some phosphate absorber and run it in the reactor, but read the directions because after like I think 3 days, it will start to release it back into your system. also, at the same time, I do 3 days to 5 ays of darkness. and I mean complete darkness. I have my tank in my office and I shut everything up for that time. otherwise when i had my bio cube in the living area. I put a blanket over it and left the back open for air. but the point is no light at all. that should kill everything, especially the long hair algae. if you have red cyano, then you have to do Chemi clean. give the recommended dose, wait 48 hours, give another dose, and do a 20 percent water change after 24 hours. follow the directions though, run a skimmer but you will have to adjust it and watch it because it foams like crazy, but that's okay because during that time the water needs the extra oxygen. it works really well with cyano.. but anyway back to the process. after the initial 3-5 days of darkness and chemi-clean if needed. you should be pretty good to start. use the NOPOX as directed to start. Keep testing every 4 days or so, and make adjustments accordingly. Using a doser is best. you should really consider getting one, because of the other stuff like calcium, and alkalinity, that you will need to be adding. it makes life really easier. plus it makes adjusting and adding the NOPOX a breeze. I am currently dosing 16ml per day and My tank is named packed with corals, I have like 10 large fish, tangs, clowns etc... but no plants at all in my refugium. In fact I have it completely dark in my refugium.
I run Red Sea NOPOX
I have a skimmer
I run a phosphate reactor
that's it, it works...
oh also, clean your glass every day, I mean every day. the snails and clean up crew need to clean your rock and sand, not your glasses. that's your job. also once a week I clean the back glass and plastic overflow covers with a stick that has something like felt on it. takes 10 minutes. you don't need to scrub just run the felt over the glass to make sure there's not build up. sometimes I get green stuff on the pad. the idea of this is to not let anything build up and get a footing. once it does , it's a pain to get it out.
