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less testers=less ability to misread. all tanks cycle by day 30. *that doesn't mean ones using rotted former live rock dried, then rehydrated wont leak ammonia a while, they can- but at 30 days submersion the surfaces are as cycled as your tank and mine currently running once the overcoming rot stops. cycling bac is always ready by day 30 you are showing above. when a fish dies in a full running reef, the extra ammonia that can be produced doesn't mean that system lacked bacteria.
www.reef2reef.com
Ok cool but in theory if I let it sit not sure how long.no rush, we don't factor nitrite in updated cycling since nitrite always complies with ammonia by day 25, in all cycling charts, when not measuring wastewater. its ok to wait any interval of time however.
because you met 30 days cycling and the one param that matters, ammonia, you are cycled. this thread has links to the chem forum, discussing why nitrite absolutely has no bearing in todays cycle science. helpful...one param cycling.
its the new wave
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The microbiology of reef tank cycling.
You can skip your cycle. Ive been reefing online for twenty years and have never waited one second for a tank to cycle, because I buy rocks that are already cycled and move them home. Here's two: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/octo-high-end-sps-skip-cycle-build.713256/...www.reef2reef.com
these can run a long long time depending on the tester. he too had no real nitrite, he just enjoyed the wastewater testing option which ranges drastically tank to tank, we show.Ok. Do I let it sit for the week left or should I feed it 1ppm ammonia every couple days?we literally don't factor it, you are cycled. The rest is arbitrary waiting using testers that almost never show zero. the sole design of that thread was stating the completion date for each tank, you're set. I believe we have one young man linked in there still reading low nitrite at day 70these can run a long long time depending on the tester. he too had no real nitrite, he just enjoyed the wastewater testing option which ranges drastically tank to tank, we show.
for example, in the thread we show if you ever use Prime water conditioner even once, all your nitrite testing is invalid. too many confounds to use it
we show that by using api ammonia to set the initial ammonia levels, most aquarists are adding far more real ammonia, so skewed nitrite isn't a surprise for the times its tested accurately. several more reasons not to test for it are included but its ok to wait, no harm can come from any degree of wait.
Thank u. I wont touch it till Monday.we are on two different courses so there is no right way.
course 1. its ready. whatever you are going to add to it, you can add now.
course 2. when the tester says no nitrite then its ready. bacteria do not have to be fed in a cycled system once theyre set (your ammonia test shows they're set) so from that basis you don't have to continue feeding ammonia even if you do want to wait for wastewater nitrite to clear. either way will work ok for your system, no harm either way.
your nitrite will likely never go away if you keep adding more ammonia past the ready phase.

Let me clarify. It was only reading 1.5ppm on salifert so I kept adding ***** ammonia. Bought api to compare and ir was way over last color. That went down in like a week and half to 0. Then nitrite and nitrates were off the color charts ever since. Never dropped. I did 5 water changes to get nitrite to 2ppm on api and just tested on salifert to compare. After the 35gx5 water changes I have this..yuppers.. if your tank has been rocking 8ppm ammonia for a month, can't see any reason to re-up the ammonia when your fish are only a week away from the tank. They'll provide the ammonia to keep all your bacteria happy![]()

