It’s only for feeling good though, if tested, those materials perform oxidation without it.
bottle bac sellers want us feeling good after purchase, even if it’s not needed
we are trained to think we can’t reef without em.
when bottle bac is indicated: when using dry rocks to start. Those can’t perform oxidation testing without the bac. Harmless to use either way, I agree it’s not harmful but in nearly all cases we just give em our money unneeded, an ideal market arrangement, driven by api .25 reads.
if JMateo sends me pics of coralline live rock with fanworms attached, or some algae, some pigmentation that Marco rocks don’t have, we won’t factor the bottle bacteria as they have no where to attach as new surface area and no one has ever typed that in reefing, because we are trained buyers.
but if pics show bone white rocks, no underwater growths, then we w oxidize test after bac dosing.
we should not buy or be using bottle bac nitrifiers for anything but all dry rock cycling: some of us will never own or purchase any form of bottle bac for our entire reefing time, that’s possible for anyone. Saves cash. We simply skip cycles by using rock like this
if anyone feels they need to add bottle bac to that rock to make it skip cycle then we stand no chance, they’re coming for all the cash
old school: knows bacteria are tough, free, visually verified by rock growths that came after filter establishment, transfer infinitely, can’t be killed by water even if a test says .25-the sellers.
new school, buyers: all bacteria are dead no matter what we must dose for eighteen dollars. And we still get the .25 anyway, and buy more bottle bac of a different strain
bad test reads and forum peer sales are overdriving bottle bac usage to a very, very high degree and it’s all wasted money.
we add bottle bac when a set of suspect rocks cannot move down free ammonia to any degree overnite. Those rocks above move down ammonia in two hours