Tsunami on a nano reef

rvamarcel

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I picked up a Jebao WP25 and I'm tempted to use it... but since I am new to this and newbies do stupid mistakes, I figured I'd better ask first

So, current situation

Tank: 14 Gallon Coralife Biocube
Lights: AI Prime HD
Equipment:
Fish:
 
It's possible but only on the pulse mode which kinda sucks cus else mode is better for the corals. You'll be limited on your speed on each mode.

I had one with a wp 10 which was in else mode in my 30 cube. I have a hob filter so if I pace it toward the filter I can raise the speed on it and get great water agitation plus random current
 
Sorry, I accidentally hit post when I meant to save a draft... anyway, here I try again.

I picked up a Jebao WP25 and I'm tempted to use it... but since I am new to this and newbies do stupid mistakes, I figured I'd better ask first

So, current situation

Tank: 14 Gallon Coralife Biocube
Lights: AI Prime HD
Return: MJ900 + HydorFlo
Powerhead: Koralia Nano 240

Fish:
Banggai Cardinal
Clown
Yellow Watchman Goby

Corals: mixed
Frogspawn (two types of the branching kind)
Torch
Ricordea
Leather Mushroom
Neon Birds Nest
Antler looking acropora (sorry, don't know the name)
Green Star Polyp
Montipora Undata
Sun coral
Various Zoas and Palys
Blue snowflake polyp

Everyone seems to be happy...


So, back to the tsunami question:

I picked up a Jebao WP25 and got a power adapter to reduce the volume of water it can move (from 3400 gph to 550).

A) Is it worth replacing the Koralia with this monster? Would 550gph turn a 14G into a toilet bowl?

B) Do I need a more random flow than what the Koralia and the flow deflector on the return can give me?

C) if I don't use the Jebao, should I look into a controller for that Koralia?
 
IMO look at the wp 10 8 and 4.
This is my favorite ebay seller. seems to have the best prices, ships fast, and you can order just the powerhead and not the controller and power supply.
he also in many of the ads lists the GPH/LPH for all of them to compare.
 
Sorry, I accidentally hit post when I meant to save a draft... anyway, here I try again.

I picked up a Jebao WP25 and I'm tempted to use it... but since I am new to this and newbies do stupid mistakes, I figured I'd better ask first

So, current situation

Tank: 14 Gallon Coralife Biocube
Lights: AI Prime HD
Return: MJ900 + HydorFlo
Powerhead: Koralia Nano 240

Fish:
Banggai Cardinal
Clown
Yellow Watchman Goby

Corals: mixed
Frogspawn (two types of the branching kind)
Torch
Ricordea
Leather Mushroom
Neon Birds Nest
Antler looking acropora (sorry, don't know the name)
Green Star Polyp
Montipora Undata
Sun coral
Various Zoas and Palys
Blue snowflake polyp

Everyone seems to be happy...


So, back to the tsunami question:

I picked up a Jebao WP25 and got a power adapter to reduce the volume of water it can move (from 3400 gph to 550).

A) Is it worth replacing the Koralia with this monster? Would 550gph turn a 14G into a toilet bowl?

B) Do I need a more random flow than what the Koralia and the flow deflector on the return can give me?

C) if I don't use the Jebao, should I look into a controller for that Koralia?
I'll take that wp 25 off your hands! Hahaha
 
You'd really want less like saltyfilmfolks said, it looks like you don't have that many sps that would love that much flow.
 
I think its like 25 for just the small jebao head. To recommend flow you do have to look at the tank rock and dimensions .
Waves, patterned or random flow doesn't really make a difference for LPS and softies, does it?
most would say I was an idiot for suggesting to use 2 or 3 small jets that cost under $20. but thats how it was done for 30 years. Personally in nanos it like is as they are also smaller.

for fun you could look at the $4 12v pumps. they're pretty fun. I used those in my 5g and have one behind the rocks in my 30 cube.
 
I think its like 25 for just the small jebao head. To recommend flow you do have to look at the tank rock and dimensions .

most would say I was an idiot for suggesting to use 2 or 3 small jets that cost under $20. but thats how it was done for 30 years. Personally in nanos it like is as they are also smaller.

for fun you could look at the $4 12v pumps. they're pretty fun. I used those in my 5g and have one behind the rocks in my 30 cube.

Any recommendations on small cheap pumps? I may actually get those and look into controlling them and synchronizing them through an arduino... project time!
 
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Nice! Thanks a lot!

Before I make a new standalone post, I'll ask here just in case you know:

What are the specific benefits (if any) of these LEDs?

Ultraviolet
Violet
Royal Blue
Blue
Deep Red
Green
White

Which ones are for growth, which ones promote coloration and which ones are just to make things look nice but don't have any specific effect?

Also... bonus question... if I want a bit of a lunar mode for a bit before the lights go off, what mix of those LEDs is "safe" or non disruptive to the light cycle?

I have read different articles, but nothing has really answered these questions.
 
Yea I know a little about lights yea.
UV in an led is not uv, its just pretty. Its actually V.
light containing enough of the visible spectrum will grow coral. from 5500 kelvin to 20,000 kelvin. some use higher but I think its useless a point and also is no longer a color temp, as it contains none of the other colors, so its just a narrow band frequency. A night or moonlight is the example. yea folks do try to grow corals like that:rolleyes:
the debate rages and has always what color a coral likes, 6500k or 20k plus. IMO and speaking to many many old timers and many light manufactures, it all grows coral(except jbj :mad:)
so a lot of whats in the light is in fac for our eyes, and many corals under natural conditions are brown(use the flash on a camera and youll see this, its generally 8 to 10k) the higher frequency actinic provide a good bit of pop. def not natural.
for moon, choose your favorite color combo, just reduce the intensity(lux meter) to set a nice ramp. many manufactures have different color preferences, some are a royal blue so its a more violet(higher frequency and the fake UV ) some stay in the more Aqua colors between B&G in the spectrum, and some are pretty dead on the Blue. A really good way to get familir with this is to google the visable light spectrum and become familiar with the numbers, then compare it to the "reef spectrum" and then to a manufacturers spectral charts. ATI is quite good for that from tube to tube. Some led manufacturers also include this spectral info, when they do you can see the peaks and wider pieces of the spectrum to help you choose the lights. A mars aqua is just IMO a blaster. it uses stuff most old schoolers would freak out on and add more blue and Violet to get the coral to fluoresce.

also Im a nut job. My total light cycle is 6am to 10pm. but the very first and very last 30 min of light is less than your phone puts out. but the corals respond to it and "wake up" as do the fish. a couple of my fish only spawn under this 9 to 10 pm light.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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