Tumbling carbon and GFO in reactor?

burtonboy182

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I'm looking to run carbon and GFO in a avastmarine spyglass reactor but I'm concerned about the tumbling of the carbon. Everything I've read says not to have it tumble but packed in between foam.
I currently run BRS gfo and also the rox 0.8 in their dual chamber reactor.
Would there be a better Carbon type to use? What's the best rated Carbon on the market? Is the tumbling a huge problem or not that big a deal.
Thanks
 
First thing first.............


What is activated carbon?
Activated carbon is a chemical filtration media that is very well suited for removing dissolved organic compounds. The benefits of regular use are crystal clear water and removal of foul odors. An additional benefit of carbon is it binds up some of the toxins released by tank inhabitants that are used by those organisms to wage chemical warfare against their neighbors.

Activated carbon is essentially just charcoal that is treated with oxygen to open up millions of pores at the microscopic level. These pores make the carbon highly reactive by way of adsorption.

Adsorption differs from absorption in that adsorption is accomplished by a weak chemical bond that occurs only at the surface of the compound. It is for this reason that the surface area of carbon has such an effect on its performance.

Absorption is a filtering effect that occurs throughout the entire volume. Imagine how a sponge soaks up and traps water for example. To some degree, both occur when activated carbon is utilized in the home aquarium, but mainly it is the adsorption effect that makes it a form of chemical filtration.


How does it works?
As stated above, activated carbon removes organic compounds from aquaria by adsorption and absorption principles. Both processes involve the transfer of the pollutants from the water to the solid phase.

Adsorption relies on electrostatic Van der Walls forces. This attractive “force” forms relatively weak bonds between the carbon and dissolved organic compounds in the water. Activated carbon could release, or desorb, what it removed at some point, but practically speaking, this rarely occurs. Bacteria readily colonize the outer surface of the activated carbon and consume some of the sorbed organics. The bacterial action reactivates a small portion of the carbon and, perhaps, prevents desorption.

Absorption refers to the diffusion of compounds into the porous network where physical entrapment takes place. Ozone, for example, is absorbed into activated carbon and is thus “detoxified” and made safe for the aquarium.

When placing it in the reef system, high flow is beneficial, so we recommend placing it in a strong flow area of the sump or in its own reactor. As a side note, activated carbon can get dusty, so it is a wise choice to rinse it thoroughly to prevent small particles from drifting around your reef.


Activated carbon myths.
There are some common myths about activated carbon I need to dispel:

#1: It can be recharged in an oven.
Fact: The process of activating the material means increasing its internal surface area and getting rid of impurities. This is done at nearly 2,000°F in a controlled environment. Technically, it is possible to recharge spent activated carbon, but it won’t be done at home.

#2: It will mess up your water chemistry.
Fact: Carbon does not remove ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate from water. It also does not have an effect on water hardness or alkalinity.

#3:It will remove trace elements.
Fact: Activated carbon does not have a major effect on trace elements. Trace elements such as cesium, chromium, cadmium, selenium, cobalt, silver, lead, tin, helium, lanthanum, and cerium are not really soluble in sea water (and possibly toxic in non-trace quantities). Thus, the TLDR answer is that in the marine aquarium, activated carbon will not remove trace elements.


Conclusion
In short, activated carbon is the most prevalent form of chemical filtration in the hobby for a reason. It is highly effective and easy to use. Best of all, it is one of the least expensive methods to filter an aquarium given its dramatic improvements on water quality. Please see the video below for more information.
 
Last edited:
Diesel, your video didn't attach or I can't see it.

Everything diesel has started reinforces that tumbling isn't needed and further more grinding the pellets produces fines that can irritate corals and is believed to cause HLLE in some marine fish.

Just don't need to tumble it.
 
BRS recommends mixing the carbon and GFO together and packing it tight when using both. The carbon keeps the GFO from melding together. There is a video on their site that shows you.

I've been using this method in a 2 Little Fishes reactor and it works great. Just filled the thing up.
 
BRS recommends mixing the carbon and GFO together and packing it tight when using both. The carbon keeps the GFO from melding together. There is a video on their site that shows you.

I've been using this method in a 2 Little Fishes reactor and it works great. Just filled the thing up.

Well that's new to me.
I need to see that video and educate myself again.
So far I know AC you pack and no tumbling and GFO you want a slow tumble.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Yeah I knew that tumbling was going to be a bad idea. I just like that the spyglass is real easy to change out. Makes maintenance more willing to happen
 
Thanks for all the replies. Yeah I knew that tumbling was going to be a bad idea. I just like that the spyglass is real easy to change out. Makes maintenance more willing to happen

Just get a filter bag and hang it in the sump, within 24 hours it will turn your water nice a clear.
You still can get the spyglass for your GFO.
 
First thing first.............


What is activated carbon?
Activated carbon is a chemical filtration media that is very well suited for removing dissolved organic compounds. The benefits of regular use are crystal clear water and removal of foul odors. An additional benefit of carbon is it binds up some of the toxins released by tank inhabitants that are used by those organisms to wage chemical warfare against their neighbors.

Activated carbon is essentially just charcoal that is treated with oxygen to open up millions of pores at the microscopic level. These pores make the carbon highly reactive by way of adsorption.

Adsorption differs from absorption in that adsorption is accomplished by a weak chemical bond that occurs only at the surface of the compound. It is for this reason that the surface area of carbon has such an effect on its performance.

Absorption is a filtering effect that occurs throughout the entire volume. Imagine how a sponge soaks up and traps water for example. To some degree, both occur when activated carbon is utilized in the home aquarium, but mainly it is the adsorption effect that makes it a form of chemical filtration.


How does it works?
As stated above, activated carbon removes organic compounds from aquaria by adsorption and absorption principles. Both processes involve the transfer of the pollutants from the water to the solid phase.

Adsorption relies on electrostatic Van der Walls forces. This attractive “force” forms relatively weak bonds between the carbon and dissolved organic compounds in the water. Activated carbon could release, or desorb, what it removed at some point, but practically speaking, this rarely occurs. Bacteria readily colonize the outer surface of the activated carbon and consume some of the sorbed organics. The bacterial action reactivates a small portion of the carbon and, perhaps, prevents desorption.

Absorption refers to the diffusion of compounds into the porous network where physical entrapment takes place. Ozone, for example, is absorbed into activated carbon and is thus “detoxified” and made safe for the aquarium.

When placing it in the reef system, high flow is beneficial, so we recommend placing it in a strong flow area of the sump or in its own reactor. As a side note, activated carbon can get dusty, so it is a wise choice to rinse it thoroughly to prevent small particles from drifting around your reef.


Activated carbon myths.
There are some common myths about activated carbon I need to dispel:

#1: It can be recharged in an oven.
Fact: The process of activating the material means increasing its internal surface area and getting rid of impurities. This is done at nearly 2,000°F in a controlled environment. Technically, it is possible to recharge spent activated carbon, but it won’t be done at home.

#2: It will mess up your water chemistry.
Fact: Carbon does not remove ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate from water. It also does not have an effect on water hardness or alkalinity.

#3:It will remove trace elements.
Fact: Activated carbon does not have a major effect on trace elements. Trace elements such as cesium, chromium, cadmium, selenium, cobalt, silver, lead, tin, helium, lanthanum, and cerium are not really soluble in sea water (and possibly toxic in non-trace quantities). Thus, the TLDR answer is that in the marine aquarium, activated carbon will not remove trace elements.


Conclusion
In short, activated carbon is the most prevalent form of chemical filtration in the hobby for a reason. It is highly effective and easy to use. Best of all, it is one of the least expensive methods to filter an aquarium given its dramatic improvements on water quality. Please see the video below for more information.
Thank you Diesel, this is fantastic! I had no idea carbon also worked by adsorption also!
 
I mix the GFO and carbon together as recommended by BRS. You need to mix it well so the GFO doesn't bind. I probably use a 5-1 carbon/ GFO ratio. I've been doing it this way for 10 years.
 
I never believed in the use of GFO, AC is a different story.
I use a different method without the GFO and AC and my water is crystal clear, corals are growing like weeds, I have to dose No3 and my Po4 is steady at 0.04 every time every day.
And on top of it just was only $30 and never have to replace anything as there isn't any to be replaced :rolleyes:





















It called Micronano bubbling!
 
I never believed in the use of GFO, AC is a different story.
I use a different method without the GFO and AC and my water is crystal clear, corals are growing like weeds, I have to dose No3 and my Po4 is steady at 0.04 every time every day.
And on top of it just was only $30 and never have to replace anything as there isn't any to be replaced :rolleyes:





















It called Micronano bubbling!
If you don't mind sharing exactly how your doing your micro bubbling because I have been wanting to try it but am still on the fence.
 
Yeah I thought about just putting a bag in both filter socks.

Is there another reactor that you recommend that's easy to change out. I really loved the idea of the spyglass reactor because it really is simple to change.
 
Yeah I thought about just putting a bag in both filter socks.

Is there another reactor that you recommend that's easy to change out. I really loved the idea of the spyglass reactor because it really is simple to change.

Spyglass is a awesome piece of equipment, use it for GFO only or better yet Bio-Pellets.
 
Here is the video that discusses mixing carbon and GFO, for those that are interested.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/brs-carbon-and-gfo-reactors/

That's a old video and many experts don't recommend it this way any more.
Foremost important thing about mixing is that your GFO need to replaced a lot sooner than you carbon.
GFO last only as long the amount of phosphate you have in your tank but I recommend to change GFO out every week or so.
That said if you mix AC in there you just waste the AC as that can last 3 or 4 weeks.
 
That's a old video and many experts don't recommend it this way any more.
Foremost important thing about mixing is that your GFO need to replaced a lot sooner than you carbon.
GFO last only as long the amount of phosphate you have in your tank but I recommend to change GFO out every week or so.
That said if you mix AC in there you just waste the AC as that can last 3 or 4 weeks.
Just as many "experts" don't need to change out their GFO every week and run their GFO just like the BRS video. Some "experts" don't even run GFO. If you are running small amounts of GFO mixing it with the carbon you are already running is a great money and time saver.
 
Just as many "experts" don't need to change out their GFO every week and run their GFO just like the BRS video. Some "experts" don't even run GFO. If you are running small amounts of GFO mixing it with the carbon you are already running is a great money and time saver.

Correct, as I don't run GFO or any other reactor to keep my nutrients down.
Matter the fact is if I don't dose No3 in my tank it will be 0.0 in less than 24 hours just by it self and Po4 is steady at 0.04 no matter what I feed my fish.
Having a feeding schedule will make a difference, that is in my case.
 

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