Tunze 5017 Controller Acting Up

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A solid too high red light and blinking too low red light with beeping is the water damage indicator. The most common cause is repairable in most cases (plugging the power supply tip in after the tip fell in water).
What would a solid top low light indicate? (I’ve cleaned the sensor and adjusted level above, below and at water level....I’m stumped???
 
If only too low, this normally means your pump ran 10 minutes and timed out, if it comes on within a minute of powering up the controller, it means the settings on the controller were erased, we can reset them if that is the case.
 
If only too low, this normally means your pump ran 10 minutes and timed out, if it comes on within a minute of powering up the controller, it means the settings on the controller were erased, we can reset them if that is the case.

Ok so pump did come back on within seconds of powering back up and yes I think it did time out overnight. How do I reset settings? Ty
 
If it is a normal 10 minute time out, cycling the power resets it. Otherwise, to reset an erased timer, it has to come back to us, that is not a DIY reset, it requires a computer cable and software.
 
If it is a normal 10 minute time out, cycling the power resets it. Otherwise, to reset an erased timer, it has to come back to us, that is not a DIY reset, it requires a computer cable and software.

Well let’s hope it’s not the latter and a normal timeout. What does cycling the power mean exactly? Does this just mean plug in and allow pump to run until water level hits eye sensor and it resets at “level,” hopefully? Sorry for questions...ty
 
A solid too high red light and blinking too low red light with beeping is the water damage indicator. The most common cause is repairable in most cases (plugging the power supply tip in after the tip fell in water).
I think I've just done this. Ive took the screws out andd dried it off best I can and it still beeps with water level high & low alarms on. Is there a way I can get this fixed it was bought 2nd hand & was working perfectly. I'm in the UK so sending it to the US probably wouldn't be viable. Hope yee see this as this threads is pretty old lol
 
Yes, I would not be the correct contact, and not every country may do such repairs, depending on liability issues, etc, in many case there will be no option except to replace it. You could try Tunze UK or Tunze Germany, you can reach both through Tunze.com.
 
Yes, I would not be the correct contact, and not every country may do such repairs, depending on liability issues, etc, in many case there will be no option except to replace it. You could try Tunze UK or Tunze Germany, you can reach both through Tunze.com.
I seen another thread there about rinsing with ro & letting it dry completely out, so I've tried that, it seems to have worked for someone else thanks for replying
 
Please let me know how the RO rinse works out. I am dealing with a similar issue. Double red lights, but not seeing any water damage internally. I think I plugged in a wet power supply end into connector.
 
So the too high light was on also. Was that just because sensor is out of the water?
 

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Too low and too high on together is the water damage indicator. Too high only means the float is raised. While you can clean circuits boards with water, that water needs to be zero conductivity, distilled is a much better choice, typically though if the board was exposed to salt water, rinsing alone will not solve it. I attach a photo of what better than 90% of these issues look like, the tarnished/corroded areas have to be cleaned thoroughly and retinned.
 

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Wi
Please let me know how the RO rinse works out. I am dealing with a similar issue. Double red lights, but not seeing any water damage internally. I think I plugged in a wet power supply end into connector.
Will do. If you don't hear from me thiss time tomorrow I've forgot just reply so I see thhe email
 
Too low and too high on together is the water damage indicator. Too high only means the float is raised. While you can clean circuits boards with water, that water needs to be zero conductivity, distilled is a much better choice, typically though if the board was exposed to salt water, rinsing alone will not solve it. I attach a photo of what better than 90% of these issues look like, the tarnished/corroded areas have to be cleaned thoroughly and retinned.
I am seeing the corrosion on that pcb below the k3 on the traces. Mine doesn't have that, but you think it must be under the connector? Am I potentially going to do more damage than good by rinsing?
 
I also have the water damage issue. I think the plug got wet and I plugged it in.
That's amazing that @Reefthedayaway was able to soak the unit in RO water to fix the problem.
@rvitko, do you see a problem with soaking the unit in distilled water?
If there is corrossion, do you normally replace the corroded areas?
 
Rinsing alone will typically only solve the problem if there is no corrosion and only some minor salt deposit. If the board has some corrosion, this area needs to be cleaned and touched up. Typically a repair like this requires unsoldering the power socket to clean and touch up the tracings under the socket. I use Deoxit D-5 which is a board cleaner that dissolve corrosion and oxidation, I agitate it with a small brush, use 95% isopropyl to clean the residue off and then use either a pencil eraser or 600grit sand paper to get to clean copper if any oxidation remains and lay a clean trace of solder over the copper and reinstall the socket.
 
Hi Roger, @rvitko,
How do I open the head unit to look at the internal components and the board? Do I just pry the the 2 halves apart?
Thanks.
 

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