Tunze 5017 pump never shuts off

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Hi, I have a 5017 model ATO which has worked perfectly for 3 years. Two days ago, the fill level moved way past the optical sensor and put in 5 Gallons of fresh water in my sump. I checked the sensor, it is relatively clean. Should I clean the sensor in vinegar or just order a new one?

-Tom
 
Typically, it should not be able to add that much water unless the water is siphoning in. The float should cut it off if the optic sensor fails, and the safety timer would limit a fill to 1.5-3 gallons depending on your pump speed setting. Make sure that your top off hose ends above the reservoir water level and verify the float is working. I would suggest looking into repair, it should last a very long time, but the most plausible is some simple issue that just needs addressing and no repair is needed.
 
Typically, it should not be able to add that much water unless the water is siphoning in. The float should cut it off if the optic sensor fails, and the safety timer would limit a fill to 1.5-3 gallons depending on your pump speed setting. Make sure that your top off hose ends above the reservoir water level and verify the float is working. I would suggest looking into repair, it should last a very long time, but the most plausible is some simple issue that just needs addressing and no repair is needed.

No siphon, output hose is above the sump, the float never engaged as it was placed for absolute disaster.

1. I'll clean the optical sensor, as last two tests it was completely submerged
2. I shut off the pump before 5 minute limit was engaged.
3. most likely you're right about not needing a repair. Hopefully it's just a smudged optical sensor.
 
Just to be clear, having the hose above the sump only ensures water will not siphon back to the reservoir. A siphon from the reservoir to the sump can happen anytime the water level in your reservoir is above the end of the hose at the sump. Usually a dirty sensor will result in not filling, bubbles on the sensor or a grow light can cause overfilling.
 
Just to be clear, having the hose above the sump only ensures water will not siphon back to the reservoir. A siphon from the reservoir to the sump can happen anytime the water level in your reservoir is above the end of the hose at the sump. Usually a dirty sensor will result in not filling, bubbles on the sensor or a grow light can cause overfilling.

Makes sense, I'll experiment a little tonight with it, although I haven't changed configs in a while, the other thing is that the pump never shuts off. I would think that even if it was a siphon the pump wouldn't run.
 
Okay, so I tried cleaning, making sure the H2O level is below the sump, the optical sensor simply doesn't detect the water level. I've noticed, on startup (from power off-> power on), the red light for low level flashes, kicks the pump on. I wait until the water rises about where it normally shuts the pump. Then I get three brief flashes for the indicator light where the water is "level" but the pump never shuts off. Any more ideas before trying a new sensor? Would a video help?
 
Okay, so I tried cleaning, making sure the H2O level is below the sump, the optical sensor simply doesn't detect the water level. I've noticed, on startup (from power off-> power on), the red light for low level flashes, kicks the pump on. I wait until the water rises about where it normally shuts the pump. Then I get three brief flashes for the indicator light where the water is "level" but the pump never shuts off. Any more ideas before trying a new sensor? Would a video help?

I ran some more tests. The Float works to stop overfilling. The Optical sensor (I removed it from it's holder and submerged it) Flashes 3 indicators then it gives me no level at all, no low/even/high. I don't see how it can be anything but a bad sensor at this point. I tried to look for replacement sensors everywhere here but no one seems to carry them. @rvitko can you help with this?

-Tom
 
Spare optic sensors are available, but we usually only offer them as an installed part, the reason being that the controller should ideally be inspected and recalibrated when an optic sensor is changed and this requires special equipment. It is a $29.49 part and we do not charge to install it or recalibrate, unless the sensor is for example upside down, I would agree that it is bad, the red light on start up means it has failed a self diagnostic test assuming on start up the sensor was clean and dry.
 
Spare optic sensors are available, but we usually only offer them as an installed part, the reason being that the controller should ideally be inspected and recalibrated when an optic sensor is changed and this requires special equipment. It is a $29.49 part and we do not charge to install it or recalibrate, unless the sensor is for example upside down, I would agree that it is bad, the red light on start up means it has failed a self diagnostic test assuming on start up the sensor was clean and dry.

That makes sense, I saw the parts catalogue *.pdf where the entire assembly with the computer is sold, not the sensor. How do I get the ball rolling on this?

-Tom
 
I would just need the controller, part 5017.000. Include a note with return address and phone number-
Tunze USA
2121 Cole Springs Rd
Buda TX 78610
 
Last edited:
I would just need the controller, part 5017.000. Include a note with return address and phone number-

Tunze USA
305 Victor St
Austin TX 78753
Hi @rvitko, Did you receive my controller in the mail yet?

Thanks

Tom
 
Yes, I don't remember all the details, but I knocked it out on Thursday and it headed back on Friday morning, can I get your last name and I will look up the repair?
 
Yes, I don't remember all the details, but I knocked it out on Thursday and it headed back on Friday morning, can I get your last name and I will look up the repair?

Last Name was Ryan
 
Not particularly, they are LED based, so they have a life span of around 6-8 years, they do eventually fail, and yours was not completely dead, but it was too dim to work. They use infrared LED's and we cannot "see" the light but I get a signal strength reading and yours was only 1200mV, when they work right it should be 4500-5000mV when dry.
 
Not particularly, they are LED based, so they have a life span of around 6-8 years, they do eventually fail, and yours was not completely dead, but it was too dim to work. They use infrared LED's and we cannot "see" the light but I get a signal strength reading and yours was only 1200mV, when they work right it should be 4500-5000mV when dry.

I still think its amazing that you guys diagnosis and offer repair options for well out-of-warranty equipment. :)
 
Thanks, part of being a German company, we try to make things that last and are a good long term value.
 
Thanks, part of being a German company, we try to make things that last and are a good long term value.
Thank You. I really appreciate the non-disposable aspect of the products you make. I only posted on this thread on a whim. I was ready to buy a new ATO because that's the way of most things these days. Thanks for the service.

-Tom
 

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