Tunze MAR Release date

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I would love to get the Tunze 3182 but unfortunately it seems it will only be out by the end of the year (can't understand why the big model would take almost 9 months to come out...) so I will likely be going with the Pacific Sun one. Also do not like the fact that the unit must come with a pump when I already have a couple of very good 2.000L/h controllable DC pumps lying around.
I get that.
The one complaint is the hose diameter, way to big and not flexible. I hard plumbed 90%

One can never have enough pumps
 
1 month of growth. My only complaint is that the screws are terrible. I can’t get them to go all the way down thus the unit leaks a little bit

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Can the silicone hose that comes with the Tunze be replaced by vinyl tubing? Something a bit more flexible and longer in length if needed?
 
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Yes, but keep in mind that silicon is a premium hose, the hose you got with it would cost about $70 to replace, we use silicon as it is completely inert, vinyl tubing is generally a source of tin contamination in reef tanks. Additionally vinyl hardens and will likely pop off in time, it also has a memory and any kinks tend to be semi permanent. Silicon is generally going to be the best possible material all things considered, if you are having kinking issues cutting it to the correct size and using the included hose guide will be the best option.
 
Would it be possible for @rvitko to kind of hone us in on the approximate amount of nutrient removal capable from each device? Mass per day for nitrate and phosphate would be amazing.
 
I wouldn't have any such info, I am not even sure such info could be gathered or useful. Their would be numerous limitations, not enough of any one needed element would stop the removal of all others, unfortunately as a live/organic system, it is messy and not cut and dry like a filter media. I don't know of any chaeto reactor hobbyist or manufacture produced that has ever been tested in this way.
 
Understood, the numbers are certainly fuzzy. But for instance the ATS folks are using "cubes per day" for how many cubes of food their reactor "consumes" per day. It would be hard to measure in a working reef tank because of the huge number of variables, but it would be simple enough to measure nitrate and phosphate reduction with an algae reactor in a barren tank and use that as a guide. I'd be happy to volunteer as tribute, and better yet I live in austin :)
 
In general such research and decisions would be done by Tunze Germany, the manufacturer, I am the US distributor. I think a big difference here is that an ATS utilizes simple algae that do not have the need for trace elements in the same level, they are less fickle and more reliable and are generally more efficient. The benefits of a chaeto reactor are beyond just nitrate and phosphate reduction and include higher pH from CO2 consumption and serving as a refugium. I just don't think a chaeto reactor should be viewed in this way, it is a useful tool for many reasons, it is a sort of refugium in a bottle when you don't have room otherwise, it does remove nutrients, but it is going to be a part in holding the line and not a fix for elevated nutrients and I am not even sure it would be wise or honest to market it in such a way. Personally, my primary interest in a chaeto reactor is pH control and I plan to add a 3182 as soon as available.
 
In general such research and decisions would be done by Tunze Germany, the manufacturer, I am the US distributor. I think a big difference here is that an ATS utilizes simple algae that do not have the need for trace elements in the same level, they are less fickle and more reliable and are generally more efficient. The benefits of a chaeto reactor are beyond just nitrate and phosphate reduction and include higher pH from CO2 consumption and serving as a refugium. I just don't think a chaeto reactor should be viewed in this way, it is a useful tool for many reasons, it is a sort of refugium in a bottle when you don't have room otherwise, it does remove nutrients, but it is going to be a part in holding the line and not a fix for elevated nutrients and I am not even sure it would be wise or honest to market it in such a way. Personally, my primary interest in a chaeto reactor is pH control and I plan to add a 3182 as soon as available.

when is the 3182 expected to be available? was considering an arid, but looking at some of the 3181 videos it seems like maintenance is much easier on these units.
 
1 month of growth. My only complaint is that the screws are terrible. I can’t get them to go all the way down thus the unit leaks a little bit

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Is your unit still leaking? These reactors look great but that would be very frustrating.
 
We expect the 3182 to be available late February to mid March.

For the screws, usually we have only heard how they are the biggest thumb screws anyone has used and they are heavy duty. My assumption would be that something else is at play, perhaps something caught in the threads or between the gasket. Keep in mind this unit is designed to be capable of sealing by only its magnets, if it is not sealing with the thumbscrews, I would double check that the hose is not creating tension and no chaeto/debris is stuck in the o ring groove. You must use the screws out of sump, but this video shows how it should work in sump-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyJH8Aco8vk
 
Is your unit still leaking? These reactors look great but that would be very frustrating.

Still leaking. If I turn the flow down to the lowest setting it stops. But it starts to leak if I turn it up half way

 
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It says the video is an unsupported file type. I have to believe the leak is at a glue joint defect or due to something simple with assembly and not related to the screws, you should be able to not use the screws at all and have no leaks. If you are in the US, please email the video to Tunze USA, the email address is on the cover of the warranty manual, for other countries, contact your dealer/distributor.
 
Mine dont leak but all I seem to be able to grow is hair algae in mine. It out competes the chaeto and I have had to put 3 new batches in already. Anyone has any tip to get this thing going? I always have to empty mine in order for water to flow again after water change.
 
Generally simpler algaes are easier to grow, they will grow when a nutrient is lacking that the chaeto needs. Good chaeto growth will require PO4, NO3 and Fe and Md, typically a good all in one trace element solution or an Iron Moly supplement for macro algaes will solve this problem if sufficient nitrate and phosphate are present.
 
Is the leak from the main clear tube meeting the flange (glue joint defect)? Or is it from the o ring? I would probably set it up in a shallow bin or somewhere you can check this carefully. I would generally assume either the oring or channel is torn/damaged/dirty or it has the seam defect from early units that we demonstrated on our Facebook page and have remedied. I can be fairly sure this has nothing to do with the screws, when used in sump, you don't even need to use the screws, the magnets will hold it closed and free of leaks if properly installed.
 
The leak is Not from the clear tube. It’s either the o ring ( which I cleaned and inspected) or the top piece that snaps on to the clear tube
 
What happens if you loosen the screws and use only the magnets as shown in the video I linked. The lid has no groove, for the most part it is just a flat machined plated, I would think it has to be the oring or the evenness of how tight the screws are, in any case, the screws should not be very tight, hand tightened lightly should be plenty.
 
The screws are loose. I don’t use them at all I’m just using the magnets. I agree with you I think it’s the o ring. Can you give me the email for USA support? Thanks
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Other (please explain).

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