Turbo Start 900 Nitirite Spike Wont Go Down

lx_Reef

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 23, 2019
Messages
77
Reaction score
26
What state or country do you live in
California
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Im currently trying to cycle my Evo 13.5 with dry Rock and live sand doing the fishless cycle
Day 1 I dose 2ppm of ammonia and poured bottle of turbo start
Day 2 Tested ammonia 0.5 and 1+ of nitirite
Day 3 I dosed another 2 ppm of ammonia
Day 4 Tested ammonia 0.2 and 1+ of nitirite
Day 5 Tested ammonia 0 and 1+ of nitirite
Day 6 Test ammonia 0 and nitirite 0.5 , Then Dosed 1ppm
Day 7 Test ammonia 0 and nitirite 1+ Again
Day 8 Test Ammonia 0 and nitirite 1+

My nitirites are stressing me out it seem like ammomia is getting handled quite well, but my nitrites are out of the roof, droped once but then sky rocket as soon as i dosed ammonia.
What do you suggest to do ? Do A Waterchange ? Wait It out? It just seem everywhere i read everyone by now was already done cycling or close to almost done. I did upgrade my media box on day 6 and changed it out to a inmedia chamber, Would taking out the foam filter basket affect it?
 
The strains of bacteria that process nitrite into nitrate grow at a slower pace than the ammonia processing ones. Give it time. 1 week is nothing in the time line of reefing.
 
Here's a link of a conversation I had with Brandon while cycling my tank. Give it a read. Hopefully, it will help u out.
 
The strains of bacteria that process nitrite into nitrate grow at a slower pace than the ammonia processing ones. Give it time. 1 week is nothing in the time line of reefing.
I appreciate your reply would you say wait for nitirite to come down to zero before dosing ammonia again ?
 
You dont have to take a single action. If you added fish right now, they'd live. Thats how people measure closed cycles nowadays, and they wouldnt fail to keep living until disease X gets them based on how fish disease protocols were designed into the tank.

if you chose to wait longer until various testers show ideal numbers, zero ammonia zero nitrite and some nitrate, then you can add fish and the outcome is exactly the same as above. Fritz accomplishes fish-in cycling...at no time can you measure harmful free ammonia using seneye/accurate measure unless someone sent you a dead sample which was shown to rarely if ever occur in Dr Reef's bottle bac thread

fish-in cycling across all brands has active threads; bottle bac is pretty advanced nowadays.

what you measure in the interim, doesnt matter. wait or add fish now, doesnt matter, its all in the disease prevention protocol that protects your upcoming fish

if you can measure nitrite, it simply does not change the outcome. if you put away your test kits, or run them hourly, the tank is going to look the same and handle the same bioload as when it tests out perfectly. cycling is that inconsequential, having used Fritz
:)

its a neat way to see cycles and forty dollar bottles of supercharged bacteria. theres nothing you can do to stop them from working in this climate...in summertime maybe some nails are mailed out but Ive never seen it in my skip cycle threads.
 
what I would do if i had your tank:

change out the algae water for all new

add some snails and some coral frags and start your lighting very low with all blues and few whites, that way. barely ramp it up over two weeks with your new frags in place, no blinding sun right now its algae prevention time.

buy stuff like zoanthids or candy corals, some brain frags, lps are easy if you are using a light we can see growing coral in an active thread...thats how you know if lighting is correct choice.

be feeding your reef as it matures and fills up with stuff, hold off on fish a while, a few mos.

be enjoying corals in your totally ready fritz reef.

be feeding and water changing weekly, and hand cleaning off algae from bright white rock surfaces dont let anything take over as the uglies, ever, at any time. be a busy hands on gardener.

when you tank is coated in coralline and or corals and cool clean up crew members and you keep it actively fed, changed and gardened, then do the 76 day fallow fish prep and add only quarantined fish afterwards.

bulletproof 13 gallon reefing. even though we're nine days into one day bottle bac, most hesitancy arises from not enough time.

the items we're adding and enjoying are all low to zero ammonia producing additions, not that its required. It would also run two clowns but we can easily see threads right now where skip fallow fish use results in dead marine fish. we know what currently works best for fish protocols, to skip it is like skipping keeping fish alive based on ratios Im reading.
 
what I would do if i had your tank:

change out the algae water for all new

add some snails and some coral frags and start your lighting very low with all blues and few whites, that way. barely ramp it up over two weeks with your new frags in place, no blinding sun right now its algae prevention time.

buy stuff like zoanthids or candy corals, some brain frags, lps are easy if you are using a light we can see growing coral in an active thread...thats how you know if lighting is correct choice.

be feeding your reef as it matures and fills up with stuff, hold off on fish a while, a few mos.

be enjoying corals in your totally ready fritz reef.

be feeding and water changing weekly, and hand cleaning off algae from bright white rock surfaces dont let anything take over as the uglies, ever, at any time. be a busy hands on gardener.

when you tank is coated in coralline and or corals and cool clean up crew members and you keep it actively fed, changed and gardened, then do the 76 day fallow fish prep and add only quarantined fish afterwards.

bulletproof 13 gallon reefing. even though we're nine days into one day bottle bac, most hesitancy arises from not enough time.

the items we're adding and enjoying are all low to zero ammonia producing additions, not that its required. It would also run two clowns but we can easily see threads right now where skip fallow fish use results in dead marine fish. we know what currently works best for fish protocols, to skip it is like skipping keeping fish alive based on ratios Im reading.

Never expected this much time and help from all of you , i appreciate the help, Im going to give it a couple days and do a major water change and possibly consider a zoa as i had them on my list , i was really considering adding a clown or too first but now that you mentioned this information I better rethink my planning
 
Update My Nitrite Droped Down To 0.5 and completed a 30% water change to see if nitrates register will check later
 
Check out the fish forum it's a big deal

All those weird and strange delays comes from that forum and stickies up top, they'd never be doing that song and dance 76 days if it wasn't required to have any decent chance

Right now in the fish disease forum we can read skip quarantine threads and see the effects. The effects are them asking for help to stop loss $

I don't keep marine fish my reefs are too small but in reading up I was shocked to see its not like freshwater where 90% of transferred fish live just fine. It's inverted, 90% seem to die within six mos if we're dealing in salt
 
So yesterday Thurs, My Nitirites dropped down to 0 Finally !!! Nitrates Tested At 30 , I Hadn’t Dosed Ammonia Since Sunday And Decided To Increase From The Usally 1 ppm to 2 ppm And it Droped Down To 1PPM In 24 Hours Is It Normal Since I Increase The Ammonia Dosage For It To Take Longer To Get To 0 ? Or Did I Wait To Long To Add Ammonia
 
Last Thing Im Curios If I Add 1 Juvenile Clown Will My 1PPM Dosage I Was Doing Enough To Handle It , Im Planning On Possibly Adding One On Thursday Of This Coming Week
 
So the ratio is 1ppm ammonia produces 2.7 ppm nitrite produces 3.6 ppm nitrate. Assumes only one source of ammonia and nitrite will be consumed. But it should be ballpark with nitrate based on how much ammonia you added total.

13.5 gallons at 1 ppm is probably more than the clown will produce so you're good.
 
So the ratio is 1ppm ammonia produces 2.7 ppm nitrite produces 3.6 ppm nitrate. Assumes only one source of ammonia and nitrite will be consumed. But it should be ballpark with nitrate based on how much ammonia you added total.

13.5 gallons at 1 ppm is probably more than the clown will produce so you're good.
Perfect I Will Wait For My Ammonia To Drop Back To 0 Again Do A 50% Water Change To Get My Nitrates At A Safe Level , Then Dose 1ppm Till I Get My Clown In
 
Perfect I Will Wait For My Ammonia To Drop Back To 0 Again Do A 50% Water Change To Get My Nitrates At A Safe Level , Then Dose 1ppm Till I Get My Clown In
I would probably only does every other or every third day to keep bacteria feed the until you're feeding the tank. It'll be sufficient and keep your nitrates down. Good luck!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top