Two BRS deluxe media reactor with mj1200 conversion to one pump two reactors

[manilaboy1vic]

I want to run both of my BRS deluxe Media Reactors off a single sicce 2.0.. and get rid of the dual mj1200s.

can you advise what parts I would need to achieve this?

i would like to use the existing hard line tubing and valves.. Im just not sure what parts I would need for the sicce 2.0?? Im assuming some sort of 3/4" to 1/2" reducer with a push connect for the sicce and a 1/2" push connect Tee??

My reactors are installed in the upper portion of the cab.. reactors above the sump..

can you tell me the part number i would need and then ill submit the order..

TIA

 

[pluikens]

The Syncra 2.0 is the least powered in the line with 3/4 NPT outlet. I don't like to reduce diameter before a split in my plumbing so the tee here is 3/4". Go from Syncra 2.0 > 3⁄4" SCHEDULE 80 SPIGOT X MALE THREAD ADAPTER (SKU: 207921) > 3⁄4” SCHEDULE 80 TEE SLIP X SLIP X SLIP (SKU: 202630) > Two of REDUCING BUSHING 3/4” SPIGOT X 1/2” FEMALE THREAD (SKU: 209958) > Two of 1⁄2" MALE NPT X 1⁄2" PUSH CONNECT (SKU: 100003). If you want it cleaner, you may want to add two ELBOW - 1⁄2" STEM X 1⁄2" PUSH CONNECT (SKU: 100001) to get the 1/2" RO line coming up the same direction as the pump outlet. I'd use the opportunity to switch to soft silicone lines rather than RO on the input of the reactors, then you can swap out the push connect business above for barbed fittings.

 

[manilaboy1vic]

The Syncra 2.0 is the least powered in the line with 3/4 NPT outlet. I don't like to reduce diameter before a split in my plumbing so the tee here is 3/4". Go from Syncra 2.0 > 3⁄4" SCHEDULE 80 SPIGOT X MALE THREAD ADAPTER (SKU: 207921) > 3⁄4” SCHEDULE 80 TEE SLIP X SLIP X SLIP (SKU: 202630) > Two of REDUCING BUSHING 3/4” SPIGOT X 1/2” FEMALE THREAD (SKU: 209958) > Two of 1⁄2" MALE NPT X 1⁄2" PUSH CONNECT (SKU: 100003). If you want it cleaner, you may want to add two ELBOW - 1⁄2" STEM X 1⁄2" PUSH CONNECT (SKU: 100001) to get the 1/2" RO line coming up the same direction as the pump outlet. I'd use the opportunity to switch to soft silicone lines rather than RO on the input of the reactors, then you can swap out the push connect business above for barbed fittings.

thank you so much, i am on it..

do i need to glue all slip stuff?? or will be ok with out gluing?? im just thinking of when i need to get the pump out.. just wanna make sure the removal is semi easy

 

[pluikens]

thank you so much, i am on it..

do i need to glue all slip stuff?? or will be ok with out gluing?? im just thinking of when i need to get the pump out.. just wanna make sure the removal is semi easy

Glue all the slip stuff, I use silicone on threaded fittings too. When you need to pull the pump, you can disconnect the push connect fittings from the tubing and remove the pump. Then you can unscrew the the tee and glued fittings from the pump which won't have silicone or glue. That's just got an o-ring.

 

[manilaboy1vic]

Glue all the slip stuff, I use silicone on threaded fittings too. When you need to pull the pump, you can disconnect the push connect fittings from the tubing and remove the pump. Then you can unscrew the the tee and glued fittings from the pump which won't have silicone or glue. That's just got an o-ring.

actually i dont think its gonna work.. i might need to go flex tubing from the Tee if possible. i just took a closer look at my setup.. (just got home from work)

 

[manilaboy1vic]

the left reactor is more above the skimmer section and the right reactor is above the mid section of the sump..

this is the exact sump.. thet reactors on that mid back brace, not fully to the ceiling.. i could probably fit a "3/4 pvc above the reactor but itd be tight..

the left mj is in the drain chamber, the right mj in the mid chamber.. i have to come off that tee with flex it seems

 

[pluikens]

the left reactor is more above the skimmer section and the right reactor is above the mid section of the sump..

this is the exact sump.. thet reactors on that mid back brace, not fully to the ceiling.. i could probably fit a "3/4 pvc above the reactor but itd be tight..

the left mj is in the drain chamber, the right mj in the mid chamber.. i have to come off that tee with flex it seems

So your Syncra for these reactors is going in the middle section? Give me a moment to reply to others and I'll see what I can do. Are you open to going with silicone tubing?

 

[manilaboy1vic]

So your Syncra for these reactors is going in the middle section? Give me a moment to reply to others and I'll see what I can do. Are you open to going with silicone tubing?

yep mid section, totally cool with tubing..

 

[pluikens]

Ok, from your pump you can go SCHEDULE 80 REDUCING BUSHING 3⁄4” THREAD X 1⁄2” THREAD (SKU: 202597) > 1⁄2” SCHEDULE 80 STRAIGHT BARB X MALE THREAD (SKU: 202655) > few inches of 1/2" INSIDE DIAMETER WHITE SOFT SILICONE TUBING (SKU: 207891) to get above your baffle > 1⁄2” SCHEDULE 80 BARBED TEE (SKU: 202650) vertical with one outlet out the side to the left reactor > a stretch of the silicone tubing to each reactor > Two STEM ADAPTER 1⁄2" TUBE X 1⁄2" HOSE STEM (SKU: 100024) to go from the tee into your push connect ball valves. Anything from the valve to the reactor I would keep. You'll also want six RATCHET CLAMP FOR 1⁄2” TUBING (SKU: 203070) for the barbed connections, especially those where the tubing is hanging down from the barb x stem fittings.

 

[manilaboy1vic]

Ok, from your pump you can go SCHEDULE 80 REDUCING BUSHING 3⁄4” THREAD X 1⁄2” THREAD (SKU: 202597) > 1⁄2” SCHEDULE 80 STRAIGHT BARB X MALE THREAD (SKU: 202655) > few inches of 1/2" INSIDE DIAMETER WHITE SOFT SILICONE TUBING (SKU: 207891) to get above your baffle > 1⁄2” SCHEDULE 80 BARBED TEE (SKU: 202650) vertical with one outlet out the side to the left reactor > a stretch of the silicone tubing to each reactor > Two STEM ADAPTER 1⁄2" TUBE X 1⁄2" HOSE STEM (SKU: 100024) to go from the tee into your push connect ball valves. Anything from the valve to the reactor I would keep. You'll also want six RATCHET CLAMP FOR 1⁄2” TUBING (SKU: 203070) for the barbed connections, especially those where the tubing is hanging down from the barb x stem fittings.

Nice.. ordered.. thank you sir.

 

[manilaboy1vic]

Ok, from your pump you can go SCHEDULE 80 REDUCING BUSHING 3⁄4” THREAD X 1⁄2” THREAD (SKU: 202597) > 1⁄2” SCHEDULE 80 STRAIGHT BARB X MALE THREAD (SKU: 202655) > few inches of 1/2" INSIDE DIAMETER WHITE SOFT SILICONE TUBING (SKU: 207891) to get above your baffle > 1⁄2” SCHEDULE 80 BARBED TEE (SKU: 202650) vertical with one outlet out the side to the left reactor > a stretch of the silicone tubing to each reactor > Two STEM ADAPTER 1⁄2" TUBE X 1⁄2" HOSE STEM (SKU: 100024) to go from the tee into your push connect ball valves. Anything from the valve to the reactor I would keep. You'll also want six RATCHET CLAMP FOR 1⁄2” TUBING (SKU: 203070) for the barbed connections, especially those where the tubing is hanging down from the barb x stem fittings.

got this up and running.. however the hose clamps that go to the barb thats in the valve is too big, had to zip tie it.. i used 3 per barb up there.. im a little sketched out if the reactors clog up and theres a lot of back pressure for hours while im at work.. im scared that hose will pop off..... i tested it by closing the valves for a min.. seemed ok.. but not sure about hours on end..

i might go get a hose clamp from home depot, the kind you tighten with a screw driver.. see if thats better than the zip ties.

 

[pluikens]

got this up and running.. however the hose clamps that go to the barb thats in the valve is too big, had to zip tie it.. i used 3 per barb up there.. im a little sketched out if the reactors clog up and theres a lot of back pressure for hours while im at work.. im scared that hose will pop off..... i tested it by closing the valves for a min.. seemed ok.. but not sure about hours on end..

i might go get a hose clamp from home depot, the kind you tighten with a screw driver.. see if thats better than the zip ties.

I'd be more worried about the metal under my tank with the worm drive clamp. I can't imagine three zip ties breaking on a pump that isn't pressure rated.

 

[manilaboy1vic]

I'd be more worried about the metal under my tank with the worm drive clamp. I can't imagine three zip ties breaking on a pump that isn't pressure rated.

the worm clamp would not be under water ya know .. it would be near the valves that control the flow to the reactors.. ill go ahead and test the Leak detection on the apex just so im not sketched out every day