Two new algae blooms and suggestions on tank set up

  • Thread starter Thread starter incept
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

incept

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Location
SW Alberta
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have set this tank up about 7 months ago and all has been well. Been reading and reading and reading and reading and, well you get the point. As with all new people I found I had a lot to learn. The more I learn and the further I go I realize the less I know. At any rate the tank ran with nothing in it except the rock and sand for about 5 months before anything was put in it. the current set up is a 90 gallon with a 33 gallon sump. I have two 250 watt metal halides at present in blue color and a regular old flourescent bulb as well. The halides are being run approx. 12-14 hours a day. Between the sump and display tank I have about 120-140 pounds of live rock in place and about 40-50 pounds of sand. There are two powerheads in the display tank and my return pump in the sump is an 1100 gph. I am currently saving my pennies to get one of the Reef Radiance Lumentek pro 240 systems. Not quite there yet. It will eventually replace the lighting I have now. I also have a protein skimmer in the sump.My current stock list is as follows,

1 ocellaris clown - have had about one month
2 Fire fish - I think. I put two in on Friday and have only seen one in the past two days ( I just went to check the tank and they are both out. One looks like he is not doing so well though. Just lying on the sand not really doing anything. Tips over then rights itself)
2 Blue legged hermit crabs
1 Scarlet hermit crab
1 Peppermint shrimp
1 Red banded cleaner shrimp
3 different types of snails (total of about 10 or 11)
1 Blue tuxedo urchin
3 Feather dusters
1 Rose bubble tip anenome (it planted right after being put in and has stayed there for two weeks until last night when it moved about 3 to 4 inches around the rock it is on.)
1 Frogspawn
1 Green torch

So far everything has been good. I am running RO water from start up and do 10% water changes about every 10 days. I am using Instant Ocean salt. The sump has a light in it which runs all day.
I have recently had a few new algae blooms, right after I changed some rock work. I have developed a green film algae which I wipe off the glass daily and it is on the top of some of the rocks and on the sand is some brown algae which I believe from my limited knowledge may be cyano.. The brown stuff seems to have air bubbles trapped in it from time to time. I have no algae growth to speak of in the sump. From what I have read this green and brown algae is normal to have at about this stage of tank life. I just want to confirm and possibly get verification of the type of algae and best ways to combat it. some say leave it alone, I just don't want to get behind the eight ball on it. My water tests are as follows,

PH - 8.3
Salinity - 1.021
Nitrites - 0
Nitrates - 5
Water temp - 82 degrees with the halides on at the surface. 79 surface in the morning before the halides come on

I have attached the following pictures for some suggestions and advice. Just wondering how I can tweak things to make it better and hopefully avoid issues down the road. So please, tel me what ya think and how it can be improved. I'm very much a rookie and want to learn as much as I can. The wife and kids are really starting to get into it now. Every mornig my two year old has to go down and say good morning to the "shushies"
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1547.jpg
    IMG_1547.jpg
    97.5 KB · Views: 165
  • IMG_1548.jpg
    IMG_1548.jpg
    98.6 KB · Views: 150
  • IMG_1549.jpg
    IMG_1549.jpg
    95.1 KB · Views: 172
  • IMG_1550.jpg
    IMG_1550.jpg
    90 KB · Views: 142
  • IMG_1551.jpg
    IMG_1551.jpg
    88.7 KB · Views: 155
I should add, I feed once daily with flake food and every two or three days I cut a cube of mysis into quarters and put one quarter in. I have more pictures if I can figure out how to put them in....
IMG_1552.jpg
IMG_1553.jpg
IMG_1555.jpg
IMG_1556.jpg
 
Ok, so first off, if you have corals in the tank, you need your SG at 1.025-1.027. Your also going to have to test for Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium and Phosphates. Next, we will need to know the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) coming out of the RO system.
Looks like a huge case of Diatoms, which will right itself, and the green looks like and sounds like GDA (Green Dust Algae) which can right itself, but you need to keep on the scraping seen.
Your lights on for that time frame is ok, no worries there. In the Sump, do you have any Macro Algae growing, to help combat the water quality issue?
Next, flow coming from a sump is usually not factored into the gph flow of things, as you don't want to put a directional on them or restrict them in anyway. So, what is the total GPH in your tank, minus the return from the sump? Should be up around 1800gph+
 
Thanks for the response. To answer your questions back, I am not sure on the water TDS. I have been buying it from a local grocery store from their RO machine, I recently picked up my own RO maachine and have yet to install it. On the list of things to do still. The one I picked up is made by GE. As for the sump stuff. To be honest, I have read and heard some many different things about this hobby I'm really not sure which is right or wrong, the general consensus seems to be one thing in particular and that is stability. The only thing in my sump is water, the skimmer, return pump, a filter pad and about 30-40 pounds of rock. What would you recommend me adding or taking out? As for the tank circulation, the two power heads are rated at 600 gph and 850 gph. The only other thing in there is the pump return which you said not to factor in. (The pump is rated for 382 gph and is of course a source of flow in the tank. Why is this not calculated?) I do have another Koralia 850 in the box I'm not using, sounds like perhaps I need to? I do know that in the setup now, the corals sure get whipping around if the powerheads are aimed any kind of down. They are currently aimed straight across the top.
 
No need to change anything.
Im jus ttrying to figure out what you changed to warrant such a big Diatom Bloom. You can stir that stuff up a bit everyday to keep it off the substrate until it corrects itself. The GDA yo ujust keep scraping off the glass. Nothing you can do about it on the rocks.
I would however add the othe powerhead. No reason to point them down, the way you are running them is ok, but maybe set them to point a bit more up. I m going off of your first picture and the way they are layed out there.
 
Thanks again for the reply. I will add that other powerhead tomorrow and see what transpires. Aside from adding the firefish all I have really done in the tank recently is rearrange some rocks. All the livestock seems to be fine, just a bad case of the two types of algae. I need to go pick up a more comprehensive test kit to check the other parameters you mentioned. I live about an hour away from the nearest fish store so maybe this weekend. So aside from the addition of the powerhead (what location and positioning do you suggest?) Anything else I can tweak to make things more efficient? Thanks again...
 
Nothing else looks out of place, your tank actually looks great!! Power head in the middle back, hitting the front glass. That would put all 3 inthe back, that outta give ya some decent flow.
 
Cool, awesome input, thanks! I will add that third powerhead today when I do my water change. I'm hoping the algae corrects itself rather quickly, its kinda gross looking!! Anything that can be done to combat it any quicker? I can't really find much about fighting it other than water changes and getting that other test equipment to know where the phosphates and stuff are at..
 
These are the specs for the RO machine I had given to me. Good? Bad?

[TABLE="class: graybarTable, width: 600"]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Faucet Monitor[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Electronic Timer[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Max. Hardness[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]10 Grains[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Max. TDS (ppm)[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]2000[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Automatic Shut-Off[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]Yes[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Filter[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]FX12P[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Filter Change Indicator[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]LED[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Filter Life[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]6 Months or 900 gallons[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Filter Membrane[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]FX12M[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]LED Indicators[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Yes[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Process Water Used (per gal.)[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]10.4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]TDS Removal[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]95%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Arsenic Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]97%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Barium Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]96%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Cadmium Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]97%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Chlorine Taste and Odor Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]97%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Chromium III Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]97%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Chromium VI Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]96%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Copper Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]98%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Cysts Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]99.99%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Fluroide Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]87%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Lead Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]96%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Nickel Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]99%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Nitrate Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]88%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Nitrite Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]85%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Radium Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]96%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Selenium Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]97%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]TDS Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]95%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Turbidity Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]99%[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Feed Water pH Limits[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]4-10[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Feed Water Pressure (psi)[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]40 Min - 125 Max.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Feed Water Temperature[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]40-100 F[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]Plumbing Connections[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]1/4" Inlet - 3/8" Outlet[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD="class: colA, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Water Inlet Valve[/TD]
[TD="class: colB, bgcolor: #EBE9E7"]Saddle valve[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: colA"]NSF Particulate Reduction[/TD]
[TD="class: colB"]Class I[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
Still need to hook it up. As I said earlier, I am currently getting my RO water from a local grocery store
 
I dont know much about specs on a ro unit, that question you need to pose to AZDesertRat, he can answer that.
You can use your powerhead to blow the algae off the substrate, that will at least keep it down for you.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top