Two problems I'd like help with... (fish combination + algae)

Tim Rudisill

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So... I'm VERY new to this hobby. And I'm loving it, even though I'm running into problems. Here's my (very short) background:

I've had my 32g BioCube tank since mid-December. The coral are doing fantastic. Most of them have grown a decent amount in that time. The couple that haven't grown a noticeable amount haven't shrunk any.

But... the fish? We started by adding 4 fish: a very small Pacific Blue Tang, 2 Firefish Goby fish, and a Purple Queen Anthias. When we bought the fish, we knew that the Tang would outgrow the tank. Our plans were, in a year or two, to either return the Tang and get a new one or to buy a new (much bigger!) tank. The fish were all added at the same time and they were all very friendly with each other.

Unfortunately, after about 3 or 4 weeks, the Purple Queen Anthias died. I'm pretty sure it was because it wasn't eating enough. It was always late coming out after we fed. I've since learned that I should have dropped a tiny amount of food, waited a few minutes, then dropped the bulk of the food. Dang it.

Alright, so we're short a fish. And... we're having algae problems. Like, it's freaking everywhere. I don't expect an algae-free tank. But this is massive. I bought a magnet to scrub the glass, a scraper to use on the plastic back... and I have a large cleaning crew (probably 40ish snails, 3 shrimp, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 turbo snail, and 1 emerald crab). But I have different kinds of algae going on. The stuff on our liverock looks like large patches of green grass. And I have long strands of brown algae. I can more easily fight the algae on the glass, plastic, and in the sand substrate. But it's been a learning experience here.

Okay, so to help fight the algae, and since we were down a fish, we wanted to add a lawnmower blenny. I've heard they love to eat algae, and boy oh boy would I have some good news for a lawnmower blenny. lol. But... I went to my local reef store and they had just sold the last one. When I explained my problem, they suggested a Yellow Mimic Tang.

Okay, so at this point, you might see where this is going. So, granted, this Yellow Mimic was added yesterday. It was a bit skittish at first, but he's calmed down. Awesome.

But our other fish are hiding. I've only briefly seen the firefish gobies. I've not seen our Pacific Blue Tang. He used to be very prominent but now he's not coming out to eat, either. I really want to see the two Tangs interact to see what's going on.

My wife did some research because she initally read that the Purple Queen Anthias was a "very difficult" fish and she wanted something easy. And yellow tangs were considered "easy". Of course, we didn't read that Tangs can be territorial with other Tangs. GAH. Go figure.

So... what can I do? I'm guessing the PBT is telling me that he doesn't like his new tank-mate, as are the Gobies. The YMT is very pretty and I love watching him, but not at the expense of not seeing the other fish.

I'd like advice on both issues: the algae and the fish. Help! What are your recommendations? TIA!
 
Hi Tim, and welcome to R2R.

If I am understanding your post, this tank has been up for about 6 weeks. If this is correct, you are trying to do too much too fast.

When you start a tank, it is important to let your tank develop and grow a nitrifying bacteria colony. This colony of bacteria is what is responsible for the breakdown of fish waste in the tank. When you add so many fish at one time, the bio load from all the fish is greater than the bacteria colony can process. This leads to an ammonia spike and can devastate the tank, in particular, to the fish as ammonia can cause gill burn, which can be fatal.

It is for this reason that I add one fish at a time and wait 6-8 weeks before adding another. While you you will get an increase in ammonia, it will be tolerable to the fish while the bacteria colony grows to accommodate the additional bio load. I'm going to speculate that if you test for ammonia, you will probably have some.

The algae is part of what we call "new tank uglies". For this, manual removal is all that I would suggest. Time will correct this problem. Be patient!

Test Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates and post the results. We will go from there.
 
Tim,
I have battled with algae in the past. Green hair algae is sometimes brownish in color. There are multiple types of algae too. Everything Dom has said is sound advice. Ammonia might be why your fish are hiding. High nitrates ad phosphates can cause algae blooms. I want to caution you about buying a bunch of livestock to eat the algae. I have a Yellow tang, I have tried sea hares, lawnmower blennies, emerald crabs, and every specie of snails. None of them really helped. There is no magic critter that will eat all of your algae. Getting a mature bacteria population and controlling nitrates and phosphates are the only things I have had success with.

Welcome to R2R
 
Thanks guys! So I test my ph, ammonia, nitrates and... nitrites(?) weekly. My ph is good and the others are 0. Granted, it’s looking at a color vial, so it could be slightly higher, but not much so.

Even so, im doing water changes about every 2 weeks. About 3-5 gallons.
 
Thanks guys! So I test my ph, ammonia, nitrates and... nitrites(?) weekly. My ph is good and the others are 0. Granted, it’s looking at a color vial, so it could be slightly higher, but not much so.

Even so, im doing water changes about every 2 weeks. About 3-5 gallons.

Water changes should be done weekly and should be 20% of your total water volume. For you, that would be about 6.5 gallons weekly. To keep it simple, 5 gallons weekly would be acceptable, as long as the changes were faithfully done on a weekly basis.

Remember, water changes serve two purposes:

1. The removal of waste from the water column.
2. Replenishment of things such as calcium which are consumed by corals.
 
Thanks guys! So I test my ph, ammonia, nitrates and... nitrites(?) weekly. My ph is good and the others are 0. Granted, it’s looking at a color vial, so it could be slightly higher, but not much so.

Even so, im doing water changes about every 2 weeks. About 3-5 gallons.
I generally stopped testing for ph, ammonia, and nitrites once the tank matured and the biological filtration was working well. Ammonia and nitrite will become zero and unless the biological filtration gets killed off by chemicals or antibiotics it will stay good. PH was always solid too as long and calcium and hardness were good. I test for calcium, hardness (KH), magnesium, nitrates and phosphates. Phosphate is another nutrient algae thrive on. Test kits brands matter too. API test kits are generally not precise enough for calcium, KH, nitrates and phosphates. Another potential source of algae nutrients is your evaporation make up water. Tap water is full of junk. Even RO water can have 10's of ppm of junk in it. That is why I run my RO water through DI resin before I use it. Are you using RO/DI water?
 
I generally stopped testing for ph, ammonia, and nitrites once the tank matured and the biological filtration was working well. Ammonia and nitrite will become zero and unless the biological filtration gets killed off by chemicals or antibiotics it will stay good. PH was always solid too as long and calcium and hardness were good. I test for calcium, hardness (KH), magnesium, nitrates and phosphates. Phosphate is another nutrient algae thrive on. Test kits brands matter too. API test kits are generally not precise enough for calcium, KH, nitrates and phosphates. Another potential source of algae nutrients is your evaporation make up water. Tap water is full of junk. Even RO water can have 10's of ppm of junk in it. That is why I run my RO water through DI resin before I use it. Are you using RO/DI water?

I'm unsure what DI water is, but I am using RO water. Well, I would be, but I'm having such little evaporation as to be inconsequential. I'm pretty sure that's because the BioCube has the cover on it. I do test my salinity.

The one trait that is out of line is my temperature. My BioCube runs hot. It runs between 79F-81F.

I do use the API test kit.

The water change issue is something that I keep hearing different things about. I've read both weekly and bi-weekly. As for the amount, I'm still trying to figure out a good method to know how much I've taken out. Right now I'm just guessing and then filling it back up.
 
The one trait that is out of line is my temperature. My BioCube runs hot. It runs between 79F-81F.

That's because of the cover. A small spacer under the lid will allow excess heat to vent out.
 
I'm unsure what DI water is, but I am using RO water. Well, I would be, but I'm having such little evaporation as to be inconsequential. I'm pretty sure that's because the BioCube has the cover on it. I do test my salinity.

The one trait that is out of line is my temperature. My BioCube runs hot. It runs between 79F-81F.

I do use the API test kit.

The water change issue is something that I keep hearing different things about. I've read both weekly and bi-weekly. As for the amount, I'm still trying to figure out a good method to know how much I've taken out. Right now I'm just guessing and then filling it back up.

DI is short for Deionization. It is one last stage to filter RO water through and can take 30 ppm RO water down to 0 ppm of total dissolved solids. This is similar to what I added to my RO unit for aquarium use. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/single-deionization-canister.html
 
Welcome Tim ! All good advice above. I'm also dealing with algae & nutrient levels in my water. So your not the only one around here. You joined a great forum they are all very helpful as we learn.
 

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