Tyler's 220 gallon in wall build thread!

[Blutspitze]

Thanks, ya me too. It seems to not be progressing, so hopefully the coraline I just threw in will take off. And my nutrients are up now, so that will help I'm guessing.

Hope everything takes off like veritable rockets! Loving the new fish batch, as well. I've wanted a hawkfish for the longest time, but I have too many varied inverts. They're just too adorable. So jealous of your corals, as well. Gorgeous.

 

[scott11106]

looking really good and corals in the qt look amazing, you are doing really well !!

 

[scott11106]

Ok so @scott11106 that work, auto water change set up and working perfectly. But couple questions.

-How do you tell what your dosing, if you are dosing two part. Let's say I have dos set up to change 20-30G over a one week period. That sould be good for keeping levels in check? Or if you are dosing, say two part. How do you know what tank is absorbing if your constantly upping levels with water changes?

I've finally seeded coraline algea into my DT. I had some chunks I've been QTing because tank it came out of, I'm sure had ich. Hopefully it takes off soon. Also to note, my Chateo algea is growing like crazy, so I guess that's a good thing

so what i did is test your alk and cal every day at the same time of day , then start dosing and see if your tests go up or down. try not to change it too much too fast unless you are dosing too much. there are also some calculators on some websites but i just tuned it in, took about a week or 2. i have a 300g with 100g sump and i was dosing 120 mil per day and now i am using a calcium reactor and it is great ! i know you are not there yet but once you have a good amount of coral you will make the change as it is just better, but for now dosing is the best option for you as your tank is not there yet.

 

[TK_KW]

so what i did is test your alk and cal every day at the same time of day , then start dosing and see if your tests go up or down. try not to change it too much too fast unless you are dosing too much. there are also some calculators on some websites but i just tuned it in, took about a week or 2. i have a 300g with 100g sump and i was dosing 120 mil per day and now i am using a calcium reactor and it is great ! i know you are not there yet but once you have a good amount of coral you will make the change as it is just better, but for now dosing is the best option for you as your tank is not there yet.

So you had your auto water changing active right? and then just tested and monitored consumptio

so what i did is test your alk and cal every day at the same time of day , then start dosing and see if your tests go up or down. try not to change it too much too fast unless you are dosing too much. there are also some calculators on some websites but i just tuned it in, took about a week or 2. i have a 300g with 100g sump and i was dosing 120 mil per day and now i am using a calcium reactor and it is great ! i know you are not there yet but once you have a good amount of coral you will make the change as it is just better, but for now dosing is the best option for you as your tank is not there yet.

Cool, so you had Dos doing your regular WC schedule and tested accordingly then.

I've now got my Dos doing 10% WC per week. Spread equally over the seven day period. So I'm going to start daily testing one coral hit the tank, should be soon

 

[TK_KW]

Help.

What line of code, could I write to notify me when a heater fails? Can you base a line of code from voltage draw or something along those lines?

I do have a high/low alarm already set. But wondering if there is a way to put another layer of protection? On the Heater outlet itself?

@Brew12 @scott11106 @Crabs McJones

Sorry to tag you all, but I'm guessing if you guys dont know, you could tag someone that may.

Thanks

 

[Crabs McJones]

Help.

What line of code, could I write to notify me when a heater fails? Can you base a line of code from voltage draw or something along those lines?

I do have a high/low alarm already set. But wondering if there is a way to put another layer of protection? On the Heater outlet itself?

@Brew12 @scott11106 @Crabs McJones

Sorry to tag you all, but I'm guessing if you guys dont know, you could tag someone that may.

Thanks

Yes there is a way, but i'm not sure how to code it. @rkpetersen or @DarthSimon would be the best bet, i'll tag them and see if they know

 

[TK_KW]

Yes there is a way, but i'm not sure how to code it. @rkpetersen or @DarthSimon would be the best bet, i'll tag them and see if they know

Thank you sir

 

[TK_KW]

Alright #reefsquad,

Need your help. Purple Queen Anthius. I've read many posts and pages on here regarding them being difficult to eat and get established. Please feel free to tag anyone with expertise with these fish.

A friend of mine who bring many specicies of fish in, has gotten some in. He told me they typically dont come in this large, and these look nice and fat. Hes going away for a week and doesnt trust employees in his lfs to take care of them, so in turn I've gotten this school of nine fish for a literal steal. They are all around 3"+ or so.

What are my best chances with this school? I follow hotrocks QT protocol. So currently I'm starting to ramp up copper, to reach their therapeutic levels.

I have Mysis, baby brine and cyclops on hand for food. Tonight I tried some cyclops, they seemed interested. But never saw them pounce on it.

Any guidance would be amazing. I'd really love to have these guys school, but my expectations arnt to high from what I've read.

 

[hdsoftail1065]

I have no experience with these fish but plan to watch and learn.

 

[Blutspitze]

Alright #reefsquad,

Need your help. Purple Queen Anthius. I've read many posts and pages on here regarding them being difficult to eat and get established. Please feel free to tag anyone with expertise with these fish.

A friend of mine who bring many specicies of fish in, has gotten some in. He told me they typically dont come in this large, and these look nice and fat. Hes going away for a week and doesnt trust employees in his lfs to take care of them, so in turn I've gotten this school of nine fish for a literal steal. They are all around 3"+ or so.

What are my best chances with this school? I follow hotrocks QT protocol. So currently I'm starting to ramp up copper, to reach their therapeutic levels.

I have Mysis, baby brine and cyclops on hand for food. Tonight I tried some cyclops, they seemed interested. But never saw them pounce on it.

Any guidance would be amazing. I'd really love to have these guys school, but my expectations arnt to high from what I've read.

Take with a giant, humidity clustered ball of salt, as all purple anthia I've had died, but they were readily eating frozen mysis with garlic guard added. When I added them to my DT, they'd stay in a corner and never come out, to eat or swim. Acclimation lights are needed to help out, potentially an acclimation box if you've got one (assuming they make it to the DT). Even in QT it's not a bad idea to leave more dark hours than light.

 

[TK_KW]

Evening @HotRocks,

So I had next batch through copper and GC. Was on day 9 of observation period. Lost tilefish randomly. FW dipped it and saw nothing. Tonight noticed one wrasse wasnt eating, FW dipped and saw one single, small fluke by the looks of it, and his gills red. No others show red gills, or any discoloration. So dosed Prazipro tonight.

Does the black on the mouth look like anything? Not any spot really, more like a patch or blotch. He may have been bullied a bit by my white tail brisle and aussi Scott's wrasse.

Also would I just run one dose of prazi in your opinion? Then restart observation period?

Thanks

 

[HotRocks]

Evening @HotRocks,

So I had next batch through copper and GC. Was on day 9 of observation period. Lost tilefish randomly. FW dipped it and saw nothing. Tonight noticed one wrasse wasnt eating, FW dipped and saw one single, small fluke by the looks of it, and his gills red. No others show red gills, or any discoloration. So dosed Prazipro tonight.

Does the black on the mouth look like anything? Not any spot really, more like a patch or blotch. He may have been bullied a bit by my white tail brisle and aussi Scott's wrasse.

Also would I just run one dose of prazi in your opinion? Then restart observation period?

Thanks

Good evening.

With the fluke coming off in the dip, you need to administer 2 doses of prazi.

Spread them apart 5-7 days. Dose per instructions with. 25% WC just before the second dose.

The spots on the Wrasse are probably aggression damage. Keep an eye on the spots make sure they don't grow in size or turn red.

 

[TK_KW]

Good evening.

With the fluke coming off in the dip, you need to administer 2 doses of prazi.

Spread them apart 5-7 days. Dose per instructions with. 25% WC just before the second dose.

The spots on the Wrasse are probably aggression damage. Keep an eye on the spots make sure they don't grow in size or turn red.

In your opinion, should I go straight from copper to prazi? Instead of using GC. What options are weighted with the fact one has higher prazi dose, but other treats multiple ailments?

 

[HotRocks]

In your opinion, should I go straight from copper to prazi? Instead of using GC. What options are weighted with the fact one has higher prazi dose, but other treats multiple ailments?

With flukes confirmed I would go prazi instead of GC. You can easily dose metro later if need be.

 

[TK_KW]

Morning @rkpetersen @DarthSimon

Any thoughts on the above question I had ask, that you were tagged in. Thanks

 

[TK_KW]

I have no experience with these fish but plan to watch and learn.

Anyone you could think to tag, that would have some good insight on Purple Queens?

 

[hdsoftail1065]

I'm not sure, let's try @eatbreakfast

 

[Craigb350]

Just been through the whole thread, the attention to detail is awesome, would love to build something like this, following.

 

[TK_KW]

Yes there is a way, but i'm not sure how to code it. @rkpetersen or @DarthSimon would be the best bet, i'll tag them and see if they know

@rkpetersen @DarthSimon

Ideas of what line of code I'd write as another alarm regarding heater failure. Can you use voltage drop as indicator? Or something along those lines?

 

[rkpetersen]

@rkpetersen @DarthSimon

Ideas of what line of code I'd write as another alarm regarding heater failure. Can you use voltage drop as indicator? Or something along those lines?

There are a couple of alarms you can set up.

For heaters, wattage drop works well. Here's one of my heater failure virtual outputs:

[Heat1FailLoc]
Set OFF
Defer 000:10 Then OFF
If Output Heater1 Watts < 75 Then ON
Defer 000:10 Then ON
When On > 000:05 Then ON

Then in your alarm output:

If Output Heat1FailLoc = ON Then ON

What this will do is send you an alarm and lock it ON if your heater wattage drops below 75 for 10 seconds.
To determine what wattage to use, look at the Input Log graph for each heater wattage; it will be labeled 'HeaternameW'.
The alarm then won't stop until you switch the VO to OFF for a few seconds (and then back to AUTO to re-arm it.)


Another thing you can do is set an alarm if your heater or heaters stay on continuously for longer than they ever normally would. Another VO:

[HeaterErr090]
Set OFF
If Temp < 70.0 Then ON
If Output Heater1 = ON Then ON
If Output Heater2 = ON Then ON
If Output BackupHeater = ON Then ON
Defer 090:00 Then ON

Then in your alarm output:

If Output HeaterErr090 = ON Then ON

For my system if any heater or combination of heaters stays on for more than 90 minutes continuously, something is wrong.
For this one, it's a good idea to look at your Output Log to determine the longest period of time that your heaters ever normally stay on.
This will also alert you if your temperature probe fails. When temp probes fail, they will read an impossibly low number.