Type of Anemone

[ecossebear]

Hey folks, just wanting to confirm my anemone. The LFS said it was a bubble tip anemone which I thought it was from researching before buying. However looking at it now I’m wondering if it is? Whilst it looks similar, the tentacles don’t look bubble like. What’s everyone thoughts?

 

[haleyf1024]

Looks like a bleached bta or lta, wither way it is wild so keep a good eye on it

 

[James M]

Very bleached LTA (long tentacle anemone)

 

[ecossebear]

Looks like a bleached bta or lta, wither way it is wild so keep a good eye on it

Thanks for the quick response! Apologise for my ignorance but how do you mean wild or bleached? It has looked the same for the last few months as I’ve had my eye on it in the shop but wanted to anemone proof my tank (covers on ph’s etc.) first. Just put him in today.

 

[fishguy242]

hi,kinda looks like a philipine bta to me ,looks ok for day one

 

[haleyf1024]

Thanks for the quick response! Apologise for my ignorance but how do you mean wild or bleached? It has looked the same for the last few months as I’ve had my eye on it in the shop but wanted to anemone proof my tank (covers on ph’s etc.) first. Just put him in today.

Wilds are unstable, most die within 3-18 months of being in a tank. BTA and LTA are never supposed to be white, it means they expelled their symbiotic algae that gives them their pink/green/purple/or orange colors. Thankfully wilds are typically cheaper than aquacultures. If he starts to open his mouth a lot or stops grasping the rock pull him out and treat with Ciprio asap. There are many threads here on r2r on it if you need guidance. I don’t mean to be a downer, I just find it is better to tell people upfront so they do not take it personally if the nem doesn’t make it

 

[ecossebear]

Wilds are unstable, most die within 3-18 months of being in a tank. BTA and LTA are never supposed to be white, it means they expelled their symbiotic algae that gives them their pink/green/purple/or orange colors. Thankfully wilds are typically cheaper than aquacultures. If he starts to open his mouth a lot or stops grasping the rock pull him out and treat with Ciprio asap. There are many threads here on r2r on it if you need guidance

Thanks very much. I’ll research it just now - he was the healthiest looking by his foot and tentacles but I hadn’t realised the colour was a problem. I’m pretty OCD with my tank and testing and regular wc’s and it’s an established tank (6years) so fingers crossed he makes it longer than 3-18 months! My first venture into Nems (was always put off by horror stories) so here’s hoping it’s not a bad experience!

 

[ecossebear]

Few different photos in different lighting. Not sure if that helps confirm if it’s a bta or lta?

 

[haleyf1024]

Few different photos in different lighting. Not sure if that helps confirm if it’s a bta or lta?

LTA for sure

 

[D-Nak]

It's a LTA and it looks fine.

 

[sprungson]

Agree that it's an LTA. You can also tell because LTAs like to wedge in between rock and sand. Imo these are much more hardy than bubble tips.

 

[Mr_Knightley]

Agree that it's an LTA. You can also tell because LTAs like to wedge in between rock and sand. Imo these are much more hardy than bubble tips.

I can affirm that LTA's are way easier than BTA's, I've tried and failed at keeping BTA's my whole reffing career and have never managed to keep them alive for more than a month, while my LTA has been with me for over a year and counting without signs of giving up. If you choose to start feeding it (which I would highly suggest) I've noticed that mine enjoys brine shrimp and chopped fish the most. I like to soak any frozen food in an amino acid product (I use the Seachem product), it isn't necessary but they seem to appreciate it.
Good luck with the nem! LTAs are my favorite nems, they need more love then they get.
Stay safe and God bless!

 

[D-Nak]

Wilds are unstable, most die within 3-18 months of being in a tank. BTA and LTA are never supposed to be white, it means they expelled their symbiotic algae that gives them their pink/green/purple/or orange colors. Thankfully wilds are typically cheaper than aquacultures. If he starts to open his mouth a lot or stops grasping the rock pull him out and treat with Ciprio asap. There are many threads here on r2r on it if you need guidance. I don’t mean to be a downer, I just find it is better to tell people upfront so they do not take it personally if the nem doesn’t make it

Just wanted to clarify a few things:

1. Except for BTAs and occasionally magnifica, all other hosting anemones are usually "wild" and they can last a long time. Some of my gigantea are 5+ years old.

2. Zooxanthellae is almost always brown or green. The pink/green/purple/or orange colors as mentioned is usually part of the anemone (versus symbiotic, which zoox is to the anemone). This is why you can't change the color of an anemone by "feeding" it zoox from another anemone. Bleached anemone may look white, but the case color is always still present, just hard to see. When anemone regains zoox, the color comes back, but it's always the same color as it was before it lost the zoox. Color shifting occasionally occurs, but many times it's due to lighting (intensity or spectum).

3. These days many wild BTAs are A LOT more expensive than aquacultured BTAs, especially rainbows or reds (people are looking for the next CSB).

4. "Grasping" it not a key indicator of sickness. Many anemones die while still attached to a rock or substrate. On the other hand, BTAs in particular are known to detach and float around the tank not because they are sick, but because they aren't "happy" with lighting or water flow.

 

[D-Nak]

I like to soak any frozen food in an amino acid product (I use the Seachem product), it isn't necessary but they seem to appreciate it.

Note that some anemones DO NOT like amino acids (my gigantea hated the addition of AquaVitro Fuel), so be careful when using it. Instead of amino acids, I suggest soaking foods in a vitamin supplement such as Selcon.

 

[sprungson]

Just wanted to clarify a few things:

1. Except for BTAs and occasionally magnifica, all other hosting anemones are usually "wild" and they can last a long time. Some of my gigantea are 5+ years old.

2. Zooxanthellae is almost always brown or green. The pink/green/purple/or orange colors as mentioned is usually part of the anemone (versus symbiotic, which zoox is to the anemone). This is why you can't change the color of an anemone by "feeding" it zoox from another anemone. Bleached anemone may look white, but the case color is always still present, just hard to see. When anemone regains zoox, the color comes back, but it's always the same color as it was before it lost the zoox. Color shifting occasionally occurs, but many times it's due to lighting (intensity or spectum).

3. These days many wild BTAs are A LOT more expensive than aquacultured BTAs, especially rainbows or reds (people are looking for the next CSB).

4. "Grasping" it not a key indicator of sickness. Many anemones die while still attached to a rock or substrate. On the other hand, BTAs in particular are known to detach and float around the tank not because they are sick, but because they aren't "happy" with lighting or water flow.

Thank you so much DNak, I learn so much from you every day.

 

[sprungson]

Note that some anemones DO NOT like amino acids (my gigantea hated the addition of AquaVitro Fuel), so be careful when using it. Instead of amino acids, I suggest soaking foods in a vitamin supplement such as Selcon.

Doh! I've been doing fuel every day

 

[D-Nak]

Doh! I've been doing fuel every day

Just be careful with it. When you add it to the tank, make sure it's in an area of high flow so it can quickly dissipate.