ugggh dino
- Thread starter Pete polyp
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Hey I think thats a cyano variant not dino
For that, I'd hand siphon remove constantly and up the total export for the system including a sandbed if applicable, or up some gfo to compensate. When we had bad dinoflagellate tanks in our treatment threads we put in uv sterilizers that were grossly oversized by orders over and then hand removed them just the same.
For that, I'd hand siphon remove constantly and up the total export for the system including a sandbed if applicable, or up some gfo to compensate. When we had bad dinoflagellate tanks in our treatment threads we put in uv sterilizers that were grossly oversized by orders over and then hand removed them just the same.
OP
OP
What makes you think this?
Exodus
Community Member
That's a tough one to tell from your photo, I could see it being either cyano or dino from the pic you posted. Dino's will grow similar to slime especially on corals "But" Dinos are in long stands as well. If it partially disappears in the morning after the lights have been off, without any micro bubbles, then grows quickly throughout the day forming the micro bubbles several hours later its Dinos. Otherwise if it looks like what you have there and stays the same regardless first thing in the morning or continues to only get bigger my guess would be cyano.
If it's Dinos get your phosphates and nutrients under control, blackout 3 days while dosing peroxide 1mL per 10G once a day and lay off the water changes till it starts to give. I would dose for 10 days and you should then have a good handle on it.
If it's cyano simple. Red Slime Remover works wonders.
If it's Dinos get your phosphates and nutrients under control, blackout 3 days while dosing peroxide 1mL per 10G once a day and lay off the water changes till it starts to give. I would dose for 10 days and you should then have a good handle on it.
If it's cyano simple. Red Slime Remover works wonders.
i agree, the morphology from the pics looks like a golden type of cyano, they come in several strains. it doesnt look like the bubbly strands we see in dinos although there could be variations of those as well. i run big perox threads so we get lots of dino challenges, they've all looked similar
its perfectly ok to treat it like dinos, and nobody agrees on the best recourse but if you searched 1000 dino infestations you would surely see this group making the outcome posts:
-RHF admonishes to control PO4 in his dinos article.
-peroxide has been used repeatedly in many threads, there are specific ways to maximize this vs just dumping into tank. you constantly remove the mass via siphon, even though lots of threads claim wchanges are a causal factor, and you use the peroxide to attack the residuals not the primary biomass=better approach
-massively oversized UV, I have lots of cures on file w this and constant hand removal. in our algae cure threads, we attack, we do not leave mass in the system. UV has a great control affect on cyano and dinos, cyano moreso, its a great great cheat for motile monerans and for dinos as they have a water transitory phase and the flagella to propel them diurnally throughout the tank.
-blackouts are very successful, but no method has permeated the cure market yet, real dinos are tough, among the top 3 worst tank invaders, fix rates are lowish.
-grazers arent commonly used to fix dino invasions, ive heard of scopas tangs attacking but this is typically hit and miss
-cyano w respond to margarita snails and gfo and manual removal and incr of flow in my opinion, and dinos wont, but, RHF is able to remark on helping wrecked tanks by focusing on the po4 sinking and this is a great practice for most of our invaders, dont overfeed them!
you can run any of these approaches, in my opinion the worst approach is inactivity, lets get decisive and start an attack in some way IMO
B
-RHF admonishes to control PO4 in his dinos article.
-peroxide has been used repeatedly in many threads, there are specific ways to maximize this vs just dumping into tank. you constantly remove the mass via siphon, even though lots of threads claim wchanges are a causal factor, and you use the peroxide to attack the residuals not the primary biomass=better approach
-massively oversized UV, I have lots of cures on file w this and constant hand removal. in our algae cure threads, we attack, we do not leave mass in the system. UV has a great control affect on cyano and dinos, cyano moreso, its a great great cheat for motile monerans and for dinos as they have a water transitory phase and the flagella to propel them diurnally throughout the tank.
-blackouts are very successful, but no method has permeated the cure market yet, real dinos are tough, among the top 3 worst tank invaders, fix rates are lowish.
-grazers arent commonly used to fix dino invasions, ive heard of scopas tangs attacking but this is typically hit and miss
-cyano w respond to margarita snails and gfo and manual removal and incr of flow in my opinion, and dinos wont, but, RHF is able to remark on helping wrecked tanks by focusing on the po4 sinking and this is a great practice for most of our invaders, dont overfeed them!
you can run any of these approaches, in my opinion the worst approach is inactivity, lets get decisive and start an attack in some way IMO
B
Breakthecycle2
2500 Club Member
I have this as well. It is my understanding that it is cyano. Dino's tend to be greener. If you clear it away, does it come back within hours or quicker? My guess it is cyano. In my tank, I had long snotty strands with bubbles that I swore were dinos, but apparently I was wrong.
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I had stopped using perox for cyano as well, i prefer the gfo starve route, i think you have cyano but ill defer to anyones better id, this is indeed a midline looking rascal lol. can you do a whole tank shot, lemme check for organic pocketing sandbed or other details
lets attack!
imo
the easiest step is to hand remove it all 100% as a siphon, water change, then blackout the tank for 3 days as a test, reacclimate to light slowly. true taped up black plastic blackout. just my offer, others have others
imo
the easiest step is to hand remove it all 100% as a siphon, water change, then blackout the tank for 3 days as a test, reacclimate to light slowly. true taped up black plastic blackout. just my offer, others have others
well if its early dinos im glad you acted early, this certainly isn't as bad as we've seen, see the dinos thread and peroxide up top here. If your tank was mine, id be starting on the total hand removal, some 1/3 dose GFO if not already using and a reliable tester so you do not overdo and burn things (po4 stripping, go careful) and a full 3 day blackout with easy transition back to full sched lighting.
Breakthecycle2
2500 Club Member
So what is the consensus? Mine is much worse then the above pictures.
