Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
How old is the tank?How do I handle it?
Almost 6 months oldHow old is the tank?
Well you have multiple types of algae which could be considered normal ugly phase during the first year but I would be concerned about the sandbed algae. Get a diversified cleaner crew and siphon up what you can along with manual removal. Cut lights to 6 hours with blue and uv only no whites.Almost 6 months old
That makes me feel a little bit better but today when I got home the water seems to have more debris all in it. The pump is fairly new. I have 4 snails, a fire shrimp, and 3 hermit crabs. The uv light went out a couple of weeks ago and I thought that was contributing to the problem. The test kit I have is API which I hear isn’t great but it is all I have until I can get to the LFS this weekend. They close before I can get there during the week. The color charts are what I have and the pH is ~ 8.4, nitrites ~15, and ammonia 0. I just adjusted the lights like you said and will work on the sand bed.Well you have multiple types of algae which could be considered normal ugly phase during the first year but I would be concerned about the sandbed algae. Get a diversified cleaner crew and siphon up what you can along with manual removal. Cut lights to 6 hours with blue and uv only no whites.
What are your complete current parameters?
Looks to be diatoms which is a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.How do I handle it?
Not true. My uglies didn't really kick in until months 6-9.I would like to know parameters as well.
6 months, the ugly green phase should be over. Overfeeding, too long of a light phase, clean up crew issue, something is off but it is correctable.
Green phase can exist as long as lights and inorganics support it and even when gone can return.I would like to know parameters as well.
6 months, the ugly green phase should be over. Overfeeding, too long of a light phase, clean up crew issue, something is off but it is correctable.
Nitrites are irrelevant. You need to test alk. Nitrates, phosphate, calcium and salinity. Dose some good bacteria like PNS probio.That makes me feel a little bit better but today when I got home the water seems to have more debris all in it. The pump is fairly new. I have 4 snails, a fire shrimp, and 3 hermit crabs. The uv light went out a couple of weeks ago and I thought that was contributing to the problem. The test kit I have is API which I hear isn’t great but it is all I have until I can get to the LFS this weekend. They close before I can get there during the week. The color charts are what I have and the pH is ~ 8.4, nitrites ~15, and ammonia 0. I just adjusted the lights like you said and will work on the sand bed.
Green phase can exist as long as lights and inorganics support it and even when gone can return.
yesI touched both of these. Never the less. It's far past time for this to have been cleaned up. If it has lasted this long then there is an issue. We both agree to that.
Lights have been off and I wasn’t running them much anyway since I have no corals. The API kit I am using has tests for ammonia, pH, and nitrites. All were WNL and have been. I feed 2-3 x per week. I did just add some more snails for clean up but even after the black out the green is still there.Green phase can exist as long as lights and inorganics support it and even when gone can return.
It is not near a window and I buy premixed water from LFS for water changesLooks to be diatoms which is a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
Diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the end to the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass.
For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
IS YOUR TANK AT OR NEAR A WINDOW?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?
Next time when you buy water, test the phos and nitrate level to assure it isnt the problem. At times LFS sell bad water and dont even know it.It is not near a window and I buy premixed water from LFS for water changes
Which nutrient is at zero or near zero? Phosphates or nitrates?Lights have been off and I wasn’t running them much anyway since I have no corals. The API kit I am using has tests for ammonia, pH, and nitrites. All were WNL and have been. I feed 2-3 x per week. I did just add some more snails for clean up but even after the black out the green is still there.
Some lfs forget to test thier water and dont know something is off till somebody mentions something or they change thier filters.Next time when you buy water, test the phos and nitrate level to assure it isnt the problem. At times LFS sell bad water and dont even know it.
Okay. I don’t have a phosphate test. I asked at the lfs and they said I only needed the pH, ammonia, and nitrites.Some lfs forget to test thier water and dont know something is off till somebody mentions something or they change thier filters.

