Ultimate RO/DI Pressure or Disaster?

[Jud]

Here’s an interesting question. I bought a BRS Four-Stage RO/DI system a while back. Disappointed with the pressure/flow rate, I picked up an Aquatec 8800 booster pump. Definitely helped, but still not ideal.

I do have a spare RO drinking system from a while back (APEC RO-90). I was thinking about making a piecemeal system using some of the spare parts from the RO drinking system - namely the 3.2-gallon pressurized holding tank.

Never had any problems with pressure with the drinking water system, and I think it’s partly due to the holding tank.

Am I asking for trouble here - namely, putting a pressurized pump in-line before a pressurized metal holding tank? Worried I’ll be dodging shrapnel when doing water changes!

 

[ScooterV]

You're looking to add a storage tank between the booster pump and the RO? Even if the bladder could handle it, it would never give a PSI higher than the pump anyway I don't think. If adding it where it would normally go, between the RO and DI then the flow rate through the DI would be too fast. A check valve on the line prevents that as well, but then it adds nothing to your pressure or flow. Still comes in handy though My drinking storage is routed to the kitchen sink and comes in handy to melt frozen food or quickly rinse things when needed.

 

[redfishbluefish]

If you wish to change to the other unit, I'd highly recommend not using the holding tank. The reason is that it fills on demand, and every time the tank "calls for" more water, you get breakthrough TDS.

Now, I'd like to return to the BRS unit....did you hook the pump up correctly? That is, the incoming water should first go through your sediment and carbon block; then to the pump; now to the membrane, and from the membrane to the DI canister.

 

[Jud]

Thanks for the advice! Yeah, pump should be correctly installed. Believe I pretty much just used the BRS instructional video for the install. However, i’ll definitely double-check the routing on everything.

The pump does get me up to about 50 PSI. There’s a good chance that I may be trying to compare apples to oranges when expecting similar production between an RODI filtration system and the volume that an RO drinking water system puts out.

Granted, the two are installed in separate rooms, with the Apec RO system tapped directly into the plumbing and the BRS unit coming from a faucet adapter.

I’m in Chicago, and should have decent water pressure. So I’ll double back and check the pump placement just to make sure nothing wonky is going on!

If you wish to change to the other unit, I'd highly recommend not using the holding tank. The reason is that it fills on demand, and every time the tank "calls for" more water, you get breakthrough TDS.

Now, I'd like to return to the BRS unit....did you hook the pump up correctly? That is, the incoming water should first go through your sediment and carbon block; then to the pump; now to the membrane, and from the membrane to the DI canister.

 

[JoshH]

The pump does get me up to about 50 PSI. There’s a good chance that I may be trying to compare apples to oranges when expecting similar production between an RODI filtration system and

Only 50 PSI? Have you turned it up atall? It should be producing much more than that. And if you're referring to the output of your RO at the tap and the output of your RODI system you are definately comparing Apple's to oranges. The holding tank gives you volume(This is the most important part) and restores the pressure a little after your RO filter. I would bet any money if you look at your output from your RO drinking membrane and the output from your RODI unit they would be pretty darn close to the same flow.

 

[Retro Reefer]

I agree on skipping the holding tank.. I believe that pump is adjustable, see if you can get your pressure up to about 65ps and your supply water should be about 70 degrees for optimum production.

 

[ihavecrabs]

I'm thinking a faulty pressure gauge..

I have my booster pump (8800) after sediment and carbon and directly before the membrane with my pressure gauge immediately after the booster pump. My house pressure is 55 and I get 95psi to the membrane with the booster.

I believe there is a way to adjust the booster pump (so I hear) but I have never had to or tried to.

 

[JoshH]

I believe there is a way to adjust the booster pump (so I hear) but I have never had to or tried to.

It should be adjustable, I find 50 PSI to be very low for the output. BUT I also feel he might be trying to get the same flow(Volume) from his RODI as he does from the RO tank which won't happen..

 

[Jud]

Yeah, agreed on all. Going to skip the tank, check the placement in the system, and see if I can, er, boost this pump.

Appreciate the help. Figuring out RO/DI flow path is like wrapping my head around advanced quantum physics to me, for whatever reason.

 

[JoshH]

Appreciate the help. Figuring out RO/DI flow path is like wrapping my head around advanced quantum physics to me, for whatever reason.

We've all been there lol and it sure can seem like quantum physics but once you get it all figured out you don't have to touch it again and you will be all the wiser at the end.

Go through your booster pumps instructions and see if you can increase the PSI, I'm almost certain that model is adjustable and it might be that it was packaged set on its lowest setting

 

[Erica-Renee]

wow only 55 psi at your service.. this is not good enough . I have found that this time of the year when service water drops below 70 deg i get more output from the di resen and drop my pressure down to around 80 where i usually run it around 90 to 95 in hottest months.
the tank to supply water in the kitchen is a bad idea because you want the system to run in long lengths Not kick on and off. I use a 3 tank ro/di water and mixing tanks system for this so i can make 100 plus gallons at a time This gives me the lowest tds and less wear on replacement cartridges and resin..