Under gravel filter with aquatic compost evolution and observations

sixty_reefer

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After I started my new build thread, I thought it could be a good idea to start a additional thread to discuss and post some results on the base of the filtration of the new build.

the layers on the substrate are the following:

1. Under gravel system

18162415-7F7F-43BA-A2A4-8C5F0DA663AD.jpeg


2. Fine fibre glass screen

C000AABA-BA03-49AF-A831-62D7656F1FE2.jpeg


3. coarse coral substrate

5325F820-9E01-4882-B1A2-FC08C0076A82.jpeg


4. fine coral substrate

768DC483-2E4F-48B7-AE2F-3F9045475CA8.jpeg


5. aquatic compost

206225EF-295F-46F1-89D8-95A9F2B95632.jpeg
B20F19F5-2461-4DB5-B180-4149B2F1F4C0.jpeg


6. Live Rock

6C1C2956-310E-497B-9F19-1FD592A67B30.jpeg


Discussion:

1. How others are using UGS and what’s the thoughts on it at present day

2. how will aquatic compost perform under the saltwater environment, it’s sold damp and believe it’s full of beneficial bacteria.

3. how fast will the cycle establish

4. how will aquatic compost perform in relation to miracle mud and similar marine specific products. Aquatic compost is mainly used in freshwater ponds and planted tanks.
 
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Very interesting thread :) Following. Picture below show my under gravel/reversed flow remote DSB. I have used some effective microorganisms (EM) that is in use in the Bokashi compost method added in the poor water below the under gravel. Got a huge nutrient spike - therefore i do not inject this for the moment.

My reversed under gravel / reversed remote DSB as a principle. Sand bed around 25 cm

1649410185115.png

Sincerely Lasse
 
Very interesting thread :) Following. Picture below show my under gravel/reversed flow remote DSB. I have used some effective microorganisms (EM) that is in use in the Bokashi compost method added in the poor water below the under gravel. Got a huge nutrient spike - therefore i do not inject this for the moment.

My reversed under gravel / reversed remote DSB as a principle. Sand bed around 25 cm

1649410185115.png

Sincerely Lasse
That looks really high tech @Lasse having the probes in there is genius. What’s the advantage on having it reverse flow?
 
I operate a mud cryptic refugium. The mud accumulates detritus in the sump and is an incubator for the microbial loop. In your case, you have sandwiched it between substrates and nylon screen, which more than likely will act as an anarobic digester promoting denitrification. In my mature systems, denitrification is not required nor desired.

In display, I use a 2” sandbed and reverse flow thru plenum which acts as a cryptic refugium. Amongst other things, reverse flow prevents detritus from being drawn into sandbed.
 
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What’s the advantage on having it reverse flow?


You get the organic waste there it should be - in the bottom. As @Subsea note

reverse flow prevents detritus from being drawn into sandbed.
With the organic concentrated below a thick sand bed - it will slowly break down to inorganic compounds without risk for disturbing the system.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Following
 
You get the organic waste there it should be - in the bottom. As @Subsea note


With the organic concentrated below a thick sand bed - it will slowly break down to inorganic compounds without risk for disturbing the system.

Sincerely Lasse

If I was considering a seagrass lagoon, the organics at bottom of substrates would be ideal for nourishing Seagrasses thru their roots. @PaulB likes garden soil or “marsh muck” from Long Island Sound.
 
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If I was considering a seagrass lagoon, the organics at bottom of substrates would be ideal for nourishing Seagrasses thru their roots. @PaulB likes garden soil or marsh much from Long Island Sound.
Would it only benefit seagrass? I can’t get old of it in the uk, although I am thinking of using caleurpa Prolifera that has a similar rhizoids structure
 
Would it only benefit seagrass? I can’t get old of it in the uk, although I am thinking of using caleurpa Prolifera that has a similar rhizoids structure
Sea grasses as true plants uptake nutrients thru roots/rhizomes where seaweeds (macro algae) have holdfast to attach but nutrient uptakes as well as photosynthesis happens on the seaweed surface. I especially like Caulerpa Prolifera with its thin blades undulating in a meadow. Don’t let it get on your good live rock as it can be difficult to remove.

Less than 1yr mature, this 55G ornamental seaweed lagoon went sexual 24 hours ago due to lowww nitrogen. In this event, only Caulerpa Paspoidies went sexual. Caulerpa Prolifera, Bortacladia, and Dragons Breath, Sea Grapes and Codium are good.





Last picture is 30G ornamental seaweed lagoon.

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
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Sea grasses as true plants uptake nutrients thru roots/rhizomes where seaweeds (macro algae) have holdfast to attach but nutrient uptakes as well as photosynthesis happens on the seaweed surface. I especially like Caulerpa Prolifera with its thin blades undulating in a meadow. Don’t let it get on your good live rock as it can be difficult to remove.

Less than 1yr mature, this 55G ornamental seaweed lagoon went sexual 24 hours ago due to lowww nitrogen. In this event, only Caulerpa Paspoidies went sexual. Caulerpa Prolifera, Bortacladia, and Dragons Breath, Sea Grapes and Codium are good.





Last picture is 30G ornamental seaweed lagoon.

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
I seen it happened on the other thread, although in all my years dealing with caleurpa I’ve never experienced it myself. In some of the articles I’ve read said that algaes like caleurpa utilise they’re rhizoids to absorbs water and nutrients. The best growth I had was wend I had them in a sump on miracle grow substrate
 
I’ve filled the system last night

7753DBE7-3368-4F57-BCA6-F25060E1C615.jpeg


this was after a couple hours running, it didn’t went as bad as I was expecting, I thought it would get really dirty.

5A312EC7-70E5-4CD7-9724-55D3F6DB201F.jpeg


then this picture was this morning 9 hours after I dosed 20 drops of dr.Tim’s ammonia

I’ve tested all this morning and my results were

nh4 3 ppm
No2 0,2 ppm
No3 1 ppm
Po4 0.2

this are probably the worst initial testing I’ve done so far wile setting a tank wasn’t expecting to see the high po4 this early in the cycling. Kinda makes me think that I will have to break it down sooner that I was thinking.
 
Interesting update

the 3ppm of ammonium chloride was gone in just under 11h and 36 hours later after the tank got filled, It’s fully cycled!
aquatic compost really surprised me in how fast it can cycle a tank.
the tank it’s at zero no2 and zero nh4 this morning, probably the fastest cycling in saltwater aquaria.
 
Tough that I should do a 6 weeks update on the filter.

the tank is still running, everything looking good, plants are starting to thrive in there and improving colouration.
my phosphates went all the way up to 0.6 ppm, nothing that some media couldn’t resolve. The tank now runs at a stable 5ppm nitrates and 0.05 phosphates.

Some observation I’ve made was that the aquatic compost has solidified and flow was starting to get restricted. I’ve removed some of the compost at both front ends enough for some tubing to a-low flow Trough the under gravel I believe I’ve end up with a full anoxic area just below the aquatic compost in between the display and the plenum that is being very efficiently lowering nitrates and I find myself dosing nitrogen every now and den to keep nitrates at 5.
Other observation I’ve made is that there isn’t any organics going trough the substrate they all stay in the aquarium substrate surface, similar to a bare bottom tank, this makes it easier for me to remove any uneaten left over food and detritus.
Trough cycling every thing went as normal even though I haven’t used any bottled bacteria the aquatic compost had the same bacteria as live rock would have imo.

93A809B8-140D-41E9-902D-08539BEAD805.jpeg

I wasn’t happy with the overall look therefore added a small layer of miracle mud for aesthetics purpose.
 
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