Unglued Plumbing

[DocRose]

Looking for input from experience only (or from actual plumbers). I've got a Red Sea 250. I'm re-doing the plumbing on it (specifically the main and overflow drain lines). I want to get started this weekend, but I'm going to be waiting for two more pieces (45 elbows). I'm wondering if it would be okay to just assemble the piping (using the 2 90 elbows I have for now) and lock it in super tight. I'm assuming it should be fine, given that the pipes won't be under pressure, and that they should hold (at least for a week until the last two parts arrive). Thoughts?

 

[Scritch]

Well since we’re all basically plumbers here. I wouldn’t be able to sleep at night knowing that nothing was glued together.

 

[Saltyreef]

I wouldnt risk it unless it was directly over the sump and if the piece let loose it wouldnt flood the floor. Im assuming its a bottom sweep from the vertical drain pipe into the sump? If so thats going to have some weight behind it if using 2 90s.

Im not really an experienced red sea user but is the issue of not being able to go to the local hardware store for some 45s being its metric pvc?

 

[DocRose]

I wouldnt risk it unless it was directly over the sump and if the piece let loose it wouldnt flood the floor. Im assuming its a bottom sweep from the vertical drain pipe into the sump? If so thats going to have some weight behind it if using 2 90s.

Im not really an experienced red sea user but is the issue of not being able to go to the local hardware store for some 45s being its metric pvc?

The thing about the Red Sea cabinets is that the sump doesn't sit flush with the walls. There's about a 1cm gap between the glass and the wall. So yeah depending on where it comes loose (if it does) it could potentially leak between the glass and the cabinet, and then end up on the floor. There's 4 elbows between the drain line (where it screws into the output from the overflow box), and the last down pipe that aims into the sump. It IS supported right where the elbow points down into the sump, by a PVC holder/bracket.

No. It's not a metric issue. I've converted the whole plumbing to standard. The 45s I'm waiting for are a specific color (not just white or SCH 80 grey). Can't get them anywhere (around here) but online.

 

[abc123]

I have an emergency overflow line that a small trickle flows through. I didn’t glue the last leg from the 90 straight down to the sump (directly over the sump if it fails it will still make it into the sump not the ground) there is always a buildup of salt creep around the fitting so even with it tight some makes through.

 

[Saltyreef]

The thing about the Red Sea cabinets is that the sump doesn't sit flush with the walls. There's about a 1cm gap between the glass and the wall. So yeah depending on where it comes loose (if it does) it could potentially leak between the glass and the cabinet, and then end up on the floor. There's 4 elbows between the drain line (where it screws into the output from the overflow box), and the last down pipe that aims into the sump. It IS supported right where the elbow points down into the sump, by a PVC holder/bracket.

No. It's not a metric issue. I've converted the whole plumbing to standard. The 45s I'm waiting for are a specific color (not just white or SCH 80 grey). Can't get them anywhere (around here) but online.

Gotcha. Without actually seeing it i would instinctually say no but if the risk is worth the reward to you, i say, sieze the day!

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Looking for input from experience only (or from actual plumbers). I've got a Red Sea 250. I'm re-doing the plumbing on it (specifically the main and overflow drain lines). I want to get started this weekend, but I'm going to be waiting for two more pieces (45 elbows). I'm wondering if it would be okay to just assemble the piping (using the 2 90 elbows I have for now) and lock it in super tight. I'm assuming it should be fine, given that the pipes won't be under pressure, and that they should hold (at least for a week until the last two parts arrive). Thoughts?

No one needs to be an experienced plumber to know that this is a horrible idea but anyways wait for some actual plumbers lol

 

[Saltyreef]

Alternatively, if space and pipe length allows, you can glue the 90 in shallow and flush cut it and reglue after the 45s arrive.
I would trust a glued joint not pushed in all the way vs a fully seated and unglued joint.

Just make sure to prime and twist the fitting 45 to 90 degrees after its glued on both ends.

 

[Saltyreef]

No one needs to be an experienced plumber to know that this is a horrible idea but anyways wait for some actual plumbers lol

Im not a plumber but I play one at work

 

[((FORDTECH))]

If this is truly what you’re gonna do, how about using some electrical tape and possibly wrapping the joints obviously only use for a short time because electrical tape will break down

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I’m a mechanic so that means I am a plumber and the heating and air conditioning guy and a fabricator, and an upholstery guy and the metal worker and whatever else I want to be

 

[Ef4life]

If the pipes has enough of a press fit (not all pvc pipes and fittings do) and you really push them together it could probably be fine for a week, but it might not. Why risk it? Patience in this hobby is a necessary skill

Fwiw I use the last 2 pieces of pvc on my drains not glued in, but they are directly aimed down into the sump so if they are removed it’s a non issue and water still reaches the sump, maybe some minimal splashing. They aren’t glued in so I can easily remove them to remove the sump if needed. They get a small amount of salt creep build up on the connection joint so definitely not leak proof even in a vertical orientation under no pressure

 

[exnisstech]

I’m a mechanic so that means I am a plumber and the heating and air conditioning guy and a fabricator, and an upholstery guy and the metal worker and whatever else I want to be

I hear ya. I used to tell the electricians, plumbers, and hvac guys they were lucky because they only had to master one trade, I had to master them all and I made less money

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I hear ya. I used to tell the electricians, plumbers, and hvac guys they were lucky because they only had to master one trade, I had to master them all and I made less money

Yea exactly this those guys are lucky master 1 trade and spend maybe 10,000 $ on tools. My tool box alone cost 14,500$ and 60k in tools in there

 

[DocRose]

Yea exactly this those guys are lucky master 1 trade and spend maybe 10,000 $ on tools. My tool box alone cost 14,500$ and 60k in tools in there

Please don’t derail the thread.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Please don’t derail the thread.

Please use glue on your pipes lol

 

[vetteguy53081]

Looking for input from experience only (or from actual plumbers). I've got a Red Sea 250. I'm re-doing the plumbing on it (specifically the main and overflow drain lines). I want to get started this weekend, but I'm going to be waiting for two more pieces (45 elbows). I'm wondering if it would be okay to just assemble the piping (using the 2 90 elbows I have for now) and lock it in super tight. I'm assuming it should be fine, given that the pipes won't be under pressure, and that they should hold (at least for a week until the last two parts arrive). Thoughts?

Personally- glue it. If its going to come apart, its going to happen at 3am and while you are asleep. The only plumbing I would risk is that which remains under water as in a sump.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

.

 

[DocRose]

Please use glue on your pipes lol

This right here is why people don’t like going to a certain Facebook group for advice/input anymore. We prefer to come here because there are less trolls. Or at least there used to be. I never imagined the day would come where I had to block so many people (which I have done for this user name) on R2R. Please…do your part and keep this forum a safe and pleasant place for us polite and personable reefers.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I said please and where in any of my posts was I trolling ?