Unhappy Acropora? Dose anyone know why?

How much established live rock are you talking about at minimum?
Usually I put in as much as I can spare, not really a formula in my mind. I did seed my buddies tank from my 20+ yr old system with about 3 pounds of liverock and his tank is rock solid and keeping sps under a year.

He also did start with live sand so that might have helped as well. I think the more established rock used initially exponentiates the cycling process. BRS has been doing a neat series about the ugly stages so that might be something interesting to see the conclusion of.
 
Im not sure what light BBC schedule means, but i am using a hydra 32, with a 10 hour photo period. I am using BRS's settings for ab+.


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Please remember the BRS suggested settings are based on their test tank’s dimensions.
I set my 32s to the same height, but because I’m using a standard 55 gallon with three lights, I’m getting a LOT more light reflecting off my front and back glass, and my depth is 6 inches shallower. So, when tested, my par was much higher than the results they claimed (about 400 par at 1/2 depth and 225 on the bed).
Their ratios per color spectrum are solid, but there’s no substitute for using a par meter…every tank’s different.
 
Usually I put in as much as I can spare, not really a formula in my mind. I did seed my buddies tank from my 20+ yr old system with about 3 pounds of liverock and his tank is rock solid and keeping sps under a year.

He also did start with live sand so that might have helped as well. I think the more established rock used initially exponentiates the cycling process. BRS has been doing a neat series about the ugly stages so that might be something interesting to see the conclusion of.
Yeah! The last installment showing the success of the sterile rock and sand with bottle bacteria shocked me as much as it looked like it surprised him. It’s been a good series so far.
 
Im not sure what light BBC schedule means, but i am using a hydra 32, with a 10 hour photo period. I am using BRS's settings for ab+.


1656963434791.png
I can almost, almost, guarantee that your lights are the issue. Have you measured par? If not, don’t get anymore acros until you do. You’ll be surprised.
 
You answered your own question.

A 2.5 month old tank has no chance of hosting acropora corals.
Chemical stability is only one part of the equation which is easily achieved.
The biological stability required takes much longer - 12 months or so.

Try again in a years time.
Sorry I’ll disagree. If you set up a new tank with the bacteria in a bottle method maybe that’s right.

If you use true live rock and live sand, I’ve put Acro‘s in within weeks.
Moved numerous tanks also and acros generally do fine there too
 
Sorry I’ll disagree. If you set up a new tank with the bacteria in a bottle method maybe that’s right.

If you use true live rock and live sand, I’ve put Acro‘s in within weeks.
Moved numerous tanks also and acros generally do fine there too
Okay, if you use real live rock I'll probably agree, but not in all cases,

That stuff is hard to find and most new folks will be using bottle bac.
 
Okay, if you use real live rock I'll probably agree, but not in all cases,

That stuff is hard to find and most new folks will be using bottle bac.
It’s around ya just need to keep a good eye out and worth the effort IMHO
 
Please remember the BRS suggested settings are based on their test tank’s dimensions.
I set my 32s to the same height, but because I’m using a standard 55 gallon with three lights, I’m getting a LOT more light reflecting off my front and back glass, and my depth is 6 inches shallower. So, when tested, my par was much higher than the results they claimed (about 400 par at 1/2 depth and 225 on the bed).
Their ratios per color spectrum are solid, but there’s no substitute for using a par meter…every tank’s different.
Thanks for the tips! I actually meant to say i was using the ratio brs recommended, not the exact settings. I rented a par meter from my lfs to get adjust the light intensity.
 

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