Unlevel concrete

The loads on a stand are obviously downward but also side to side and front to back
the legs look OK and the top rails should be fine however the base needs better support from leg to leg. AND DO NOT USE SHEETROCK SCREWS ! they have little sheer strength. Galvanized Bolts or deck screws and lots of them.

Ask your self would you park a small car on it?
There are about 8 deck screws in each bottom corners to the 2x4 frame
 
Screwing the top rail of the frame to the wall studs would offer some stability. I only mention this as your stand has a high center of gravity, prefabricated stands have a lower center of gravity just for that reason. Remember you will at some point lean on it while working in it and you never know what kids and pets are going to do when your not around.
 
Screwing the top rail of the frame to the wall studs would offer some stability. I only mention this as your stand has a high center of gravity, prefabricated stands have a lower center of gravity just for that reason. Remember you will at some point lean on it while working in it and you never know what kids and pets are going to do when your not around.
It is tall but also 3’ front to back.
 
I have already picked out the spot for the tank (250 gallon (60x36x25) in wall) and I’ve already built the stand. Upon removing the carpet where the stand is going to go I uncovered some cracks in the basement floor and over the 5 foot span probably a half inch unlevel. Should I try to shim this out and if so how would you go about doing it or should I try a thin coat of floor leveling material. If I go with the floor leveling I can’t go too thick because the tank is already gonna be 6 feet tall to the top and 10” to the header above.
You can put a skim patch in place. Ardex is a commercial product that's bulletproof . If your leaving the Floor exposed I would recommend this or something similar.. It feathers to a ver thin edge.
 
Exactly my thoughts because that leveling patch will crack over time . Only way to fix the concrete is to redo it properly , otherwise use the shims or even a pressure treated base like doctor gori said
Quality products are stronger than the floor. Research these products. I retired from the concrete industry and have seen miracles from ardex. It's pricey but worth it. I've done repairs that had traffic on them without failure. Shims are great but how nice will a half inch or more look?
 
Quality products are stronger than the floor. Research these products. I retired from the concrete industry and have seen miracles from ardex. It's pricey but worth it. I've done repairs that had traffic on them without failure. Shims are great but how nice will a half inch or more look?
Screenshot_20220331-081736_Google.jpg
 
I'm late to the party, but another option is to level the stand, scribe it all the way around at the floor and then use a belt sander or hand power plane to remove the wood to the scribe line. Now you're sitting directly on the floor.....no shims needed.
 
I'm late to the party, but another option is to level the stand, scribe it all the way around at the floor and then use a belt sander or hand power plane to remove the wood to the scribe line. Now you're sitting directly on the floor.....no shims needed.
That is a great idea and will work perfectly if you can live with the elevation differential at the crack. Combine both. Patch the floor then scribe the stand. WINNER!
 

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