Upgrade Opinions

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spsick

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Upgrading tank to a custom 36x24x18 and would love input.

I currently have a 6x24 Dimmable Sunpower over my 40 breeder and love it, however after testing PAR I’m a little disappointed in output. Fixture is 8” above water, and I’m getting 370 on rocks 4” below the surface which would be ok if it wasn’t such a narrow band. 6” deep at the edges of the fixture in only seeing 120. Sand in the middle gets 150. Bulbs are 3x B+ 3x C+, these are the adjusted numbers with Apogees calculator.

This is an SPS tank so I want more punch. My old 75 gal had a 6x48 and I could grow anything anywhere.

6x39 or 8x39 dimmable sunpower is the choices I’m giving myself. I’m ok with some lower light in the front/back, sounds like I’ll get much more even coverage with 36” bulbs.

I like the aquatic life hybrids but I can’t find much info on ballasts or reflectors. And that would be 4 power cords to run that with 2 XR15 Pros or whatever.

Obviously 8 sounds better but dang that’s a lot of bulbs to maintain.

Thoughts? Current tank for contemplation

623297a4b983fb88457f3a2e98fe3518.jpg
 
Those numbers you got seem low to me.

What meter is it?

Also an easy upgrade is led bars
Prob decide if you want to the Led or the t5 to do the most par work.

4t 4 and a couple X-r on that could be called overkill.
Pretty though.
 
Those numbers you got seem low to me.

What meter is it?

Also an easy upgrade is led bars
Prob decide if you want to the Led or the t5 to do the most par work.

4t 4 and a couple X-r on that could be called overkill.
Pretty though.

I thought so too. MQ200 set on electric. Numbers were higher but the immersion calculator knocked them down.
 
I thought so too. MQ200 set on electric. Numbers were higher but the immersion calculator knocked them down.
What was the number before the immersion factor?
 
Kinda odd. I would have estimated you closer to 5-700 at the water line in the peak.

The 150-200 on the sand sound close though.

Any idea if the or when the meter was calibrated?

Anyone familiar or seen numbers from this fixture?
#reefsquad
 
Kinda odd. I would have estimated you closer to 5-700 at the water line in the peak.

The 150-200 on the sand sound close though.

Any idea if the or when the meter was calibrated?

Anyone familiar or seen numbers from this fixture?
#reefsquad

Nope, beautiful system though. Sorry can't help.
 
Kinda odd. I would have estimated you closer to 5-700 at the water line in the peak.

The 150-200 on the sand sound close though.

Any idea if the or when the meter was calibrated?

Anyone familiar or seen numbers from this fixture?
#reefsquad

Yeah it was around 400 at the surface and ~1000 with the sensor touching the acrylic directly under any given lamp. I also question the calibration but figured it couldn’t be that far off.
 
I could see that on the tank above as the lights are only strongest in the center of the tank. Out towards the ends of the tubes the Par falls off. Getting a fixture that covered the whole tank 36x 6 ATI would be my choice on a 40 breeder size tank. I wouldn't go out and buy the Ecotech lights because you will not be gaining anything doing so.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/36-ati-sunpower-high-output-t5-light-fixture.html
 
For the most part , on a 48in t5 fixture with that combo.
At the center of the tubes , 12 in from the light, you can expect about 150-175 par per tube.
6x150 900.
This my question. These readings Seems incorrect. Most smaller fixtures (that I have seen) appear to have the same spec.

IMO , most are adding t5 for very little reason but , but what they should be looking at is;
Having the t5 do the majority of the par work and have the led for pop and extended viewing hours with lower out put ,
Or
If Led is the preference,
By adding a long bright light source it’s filling in the areas created by not using enough pucks. Fixing Shading.

That’s imo the choice.
What is suplimenting what.

Your readings now are kinda the side mystery.
Perhaps @Dana Riddle can help us out with the meter.
 
The MQ-200 has the older model sensor (the black one) and the readings made in water should be multiplied by 1.08. It sounds like you might be dividing by 1.08??? Orphek has some new LED strip lights, and they can be custom built to meet your spectral needs. They're no-nonsense, just a strip with an off/on manual switch. An $8 timer from the hardware store solves that issue.
 
The MQ-200 has the older model sensor (the black one) and the readings made in water should be multiplied by 1.08. It sounds like you might be dividing by 1.08??? Orphek has some new LED strip lights, and they can be custom built to meet your spectral needs. They're no-nonsense, just a strip with an off/on manual switch. An $8 timer from the hardware store solves that issue.

Right. I read about that but it was indicated that the Apogee calculator tool does it.

I’ll check out the Orphek, and I’m also considering adding like an SBar.

Gosh I wish I could be more sure about the PAR readings before pulling the trigger on MORE lighting.
 
Your tank looks great - as best as I can see, it looks like you have a Red Dragon Acro and a Jack O'Lantern Lepto. Coloration looks good, and growth seems apparent. The simplest option would be to lower your lights by an inch or two.
 
Your tank looks great - as best as I can see, it looks like you have a Red Dragon Acro and a Jack O'Lantern Lepto. Coloration looks good, and growth seems apparent. The simplest option would be to lower your lights by an inch or two.

Thank you. It’s been on autopilot and doing great for a couple years. Just wanted to figure out where I’m at before upgrading and was surprised by the results. Think lowering fixture would narrow my coverage area?
 
The next trouble shooting step , besides calibration or the calibration steps on the apogee site would be a &15 lux meter.

I theory and IME, you should be in the 30-40000 lux range at the top of the water. About 8in from the light.
Less than that would indicate to me old tubes or a worn ballast perhaps.


For that combo , devide lux by 50. Should be close ime.

If you have 20,000 lux on that tank the ballast may be worn.
If you have 30-40000 the par meter is suspect.
 
Thank you. It’s been on autopilot and doing great for a couple years. Just wanted to figure out where I’m at before upgrading and was surprised by the results. Think lowering fixture would narrow my coverage area?
Yes, the coverage area at the top will decrease, but those lighted areas will receive increased intensity. If you're seeing problems with the corals and really think its related to light then by all means take corrective action. Based on your photo, I don't see any issues. It's a common misconception that SPS corals require higher light - there is peer-reviewed evidence that states this. In any case, based on what I see, it ain't broke, so why fix it? It's a beautiful tank!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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