Upgrading return pump to Water Blaster Pump

[SaltyReefer]

I am currently planning for the move of my 210g tank (room to room )

While doing so, i am completely replacing all plumbing, and pumps.

I need some advice on which Water Blaster pump to choose...

Some info first

210g DT
55g sump holding about 30g of water
Nwb 200 Reef Octopus ( but will be upgrading pump to a Bubble Blaster HY-3000 to essentially turn it into an SRO3000 )

Bulkheads for drain will be 1", two of them and adding two emergency drains
Drain pipe will be upped to 1 1/4" with all unions and true union ball valves over sized to 1 3/4" to help elimanate/reduce restriction.

Bulkheads for returns will be 3/4" two of them, fed by one pump.
Pipe outlet on pump is 1" on all choices of pump that i will list.
So at this moment, piping will be 1"
Fittings---
one T
two 90's
4 45's
2 1" true union ball valves
2 1 1/2" unions
and about 5 1/2' of head up to top of DT

Whhheeeewwww,

ok

I am estimating approximately 9' of headloss with all this.

Here are pump choices with there headloss graphs...i hope...

I think the 5000 will be a little to small.
The 7000 may be just right.
and the 10000 may be over, but i think it is ok to cut it back some with the ball valves.
and this poridge is to Hot,
and this bed is tooooo hard. Sorry, its been a long night of planning and research.

I hope i gave enough info to help out. I am looking for your suggestions, advice, feed back as to what pump to choose and why or why not. Did i make any miss calculations/estimates on anything....headloss, choice of plumbing etc.

Thank you in advance

 

[GrampaDon]

I personally never ran anything over aMag 9.5. But I had a Octo WB-7000 and it was too much for my plumbing [one 1 1/4 drain in a 1 1/2 bulkhead] So that is my vote if using 2 X 1in drains.

Since you asked here is what I know. The choke point will be at the bulkheads ,so it doesnt matter if you use a 1 1/4 before or after them. My advice is use slip/slip bulkheads. And the thin wall 1 in 200psi PVC pipe is great for drain lines If you look at them the amount of cross section area is like 40-50% more . Only glue the part below the bulkhead ,the add the unions and again look at the choke point inside these. [ In mine I dont use unions ,just a standard 3ft flex hose to keep the area up to the max into the sump. YMMV ] For the backup drains 1 1/2 will do nicely.

Also step up the return ports to 3/4 to reduce friction losses

The same plumbing if going to the WB 10000. Just might need to bleed a tiny bit off. [might]

Im sure others will chime in with more options. This is just how I do it. G/L :nerd:

 

[SaltyReefer]

I personally never ran anything over aMag 9.5. But I had a Octo WB-7000 and it was too much for my plumbing [one 1 1/4 drain in a 1 1/2 bulkhead] So that is my vote if using 2 X 1in drains.

The 7000 would be your vote?

Since you asked here is what I know. The choke point will be at the bulkheads ,so it doesnt matter if you use a 1 1/4 before or after them. My advice is use slip/slip bulkheads. And the thin wall 1 in 200psi PVC pipe is great for drain lines If you look at them the amount of cross section area is like 40-50% more . Only glue the part below the bulkhead ,the add the unions and again look at the choke point inside these. [ In mine I dont use unions ,just a standard 3ft flex hose to keep the area up to the max into the sump. YMMV ] For the backup drains 1 1/2 will do nicely.

My thinking was over sizing for less restrictive flow, but more i think about it, it is a drain, not super concerned, water will fall, LOL

I like using slip in DT and threaded cabinet side just in case it needs to be taken apart for some unforeseen problem, no cutting of pipe and/or replacement of bulkhead, unless bulkhead is the problem.

Why would the back up drains need to be over sized, if main 1" does the job, why wouldn't 1" emergency drains work?

Also step up the return ports to 3/4 to reduce friction losses

The return bulkheads are 3/4" and pipe will be 1", that is the outlet on all three of those pumps

The same plumbing if going to the WB 10000. Just might need to bleed a tiny bit off. [might]

That would not be to much of a problem, could just throttle back with ball valve or dump some back in sump.

Im sure others will chime in with more options. This is just how I do it. G/L :nerd:

Thanks, i will take what you have said into consideration.

 

[GrampaDon]

Yes WB 7000

Water will fall true. But unless you are doing a Herbie drain the pipe diameter or in this case the cross section of the threaded parts will be the choke point.

I said 1 1/2 backup thinking of having way to much capacity for the "what if" [And its what i have on my Herbie] But with the WB 7000 the 1in backup should suffice.

My bad ,I misread the returns as 1/2 is why I suggested 3/4.

Looking over your first post and response about using threaded pipe and 1in backup. I will no longer recomend the WB 10000 ,as I feel it likely will over power what you are planing.
With that said the WB 7000 is still a good choice.

 

[SaltyReefer]

Thank you sir, that is the way i am leaning, but i always love to see other peoples ideas and thoughts.

anyone else? No suggestion/thought or idea is bad, thats why they are not called true or facts, LOL

 

[SaltyReefer]

ok, i am ordering pump tomorrow....HY-7000 or HY-10000?

Just to reiterate, Two drains, 1" bulkhead with 1 1/4" pipe to sump

Return outlet on both pumps is 1", so i will be using 1 1/4" return line, with a T splitting to two returns ( ball valves on each side after T, 4 elbows and 6' head )
I can make the return bulkheads 3/4" or 1"

What do you guys think? 7000 or 10000

Oh ya, NWB 200 skimmer will be upgraded with a Bubble Blaster 3000 also

 

[Robertchrisroph]

Saltyreefer which one did you use? I have a 150 gallon and I am getting the 10000 I have to build a manifold to get water to go in every direction. 2 returns a skimmer a chiller and reactors. Lol. How did yours come out? thanks