Upgrading to bigger canister filter - what to move over

[dh1982]

Hello. I Would like some advice on how to change (upgrade) to a new canister filter.
I currently have a Marineland canister and switching to a Fluval fx4.

What filer media should I move besides the ceramic rings and bioballs (think that’s what they are called). It’s a 50gal cube btw.

Do I only move half of these things to mix in with the new? Let both pumps run for a few weeks?

I’ve only found mixed info online.

Thanks!
D

 

[Peace River]

It looks like you have a fair amount of live rock that is providing at least some of your biological filtration. It depends on how you are currently using your canister filter. If you clean it often and use it primarily for mechanical filtration then moving things from one canister to the next is less of an issue. If you are depending on your your canister for biological filtration then you may want to move some over. Another approach would be to run both canisters simultaneously for a few weeks while the biological elements are built up in the new filter. Good luck with whatever you decide!

 

[dh1982]

It looks like you have a fair amount of live rock that is providing at least some of your biological filtration. It depends on how you are currently using your canister filter. If you clean it often and use it primarily for mechanical filtration then moving things from one canister to the next is less of an issue. If you are depending on your your canister for biological filtration then you may want to move some over. Another approach would be to run both canisters simultaneously for a few weeks while the biological elements are built up in the new filter. Good luck with whatever you decide!

Thanks for the quick reply!
I don’t clean it that often maybe once every 1.5 months. I rinse the ceramic, bio and filter. Replace the top one that collects all the dirt.

It seems like the last option is the easiest.
Basically just set up the new filter and let them run a few weeks. It’s probably twice the size of the current one.

After I can get rid of the old filter, won’t have to move anything over?

 

[brandon429]

You are allowed to disconnect it, remove everything, put back all new media and no old, because that extra surface area isn’t required in your reef, it’s merely extra.

the things online about slow removal aren’t correct. It’s not harmful to remove in sections, or put back in sections, but it’s not a different outcome than disconnecting the filter altogether and just not having one.


we remove full filters instantly and routinely in the sand rinse thread, your live rock shown there is why this works. It doesn’t need extra help. We routinely remove sandbeds all at once as well. This is the same as disconnecting a filter, the extraneous surface area beyond the live rock can be pared off at any time, these are the updated rules regarding marine cycles and the reason for the updates is to redraw the rules of access so people can run their reefs without relying on bottle bac, or fear of bacteria loss.

nitrification for ammonia control is what I’m referring to

removing gfo or nitrate adsorption media may very well cause a corresponding reading, but that has nothing to do with nh3 poisoning, that part is predictable for each tank.

removing things in sections unclogs portions of a filter and sends waste casting into the water and on down into the display. Working in wholes has a hidden safety margin, but the old rules of cycling simply cannot fathom that live rock does not take on replacement bacteria when we remove accessory media, it’s simply got enough on its own.

 

[dh1982]

You are allowed to disconnect it, remove everything, put back all new media and no old, because that extra surface area isn’t required in your reef, it’s merely extra.

the things online about slow removal aren’t correct. It’s not harmful to remove in sections, or put back in sections, but it’s not a different outcome than disconnecting the filter altogether and just not having one.


we remove full filters instantly and routinely in the sand rinse thread, your live rock shown there is why this works. It doesn’t need extra help. We routinely remove sandbeds all at once as well. This is the same as disconnecting a filter, the extraneous surface area beyond the live rock can be pared off at any time, these are the updated rules regarding marine cycles and the reason for the updates is to redraw the rules of access so people can run their reefs without relying on bottle bac, or fear of bacteria loss.

nitrification for ammonia control is what I’m referring to

removing gfo or nitrate adsorption media may very well cause a corresponding reading, but that has nothing to do with nh3 poisoning, that part is predictable for each tank.

removing things in sections unclogs portions of a filter and sends waste casting into the water and on down into the display. Working in wholes has a hidden safety margin, but the old rules of cycling simply cannot fathom that live rock does not take on replacement bacteria when we remove accessory media, it’s simply got enough on its own.

 

[dh1982]

Makes sense. Thanks for the advise!

 

[brandon429]

Hey can you take a couple pics and update us on the recovery, we track these new forms of surface area management in order to validate the new rules set for accuracy. Here's one just like yours but we instantly removed his remote sandbed, same effects as removing a canister filter

Removing remote deep sand bed

I setup a removable deep sand bed in my sump 9 months ago but now I’d like to remove it to give me more room in the sump. What do you think the impact to tank chemistry might be and how to mitigate any negatives?

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