UPS Battery Backup for your aquarium

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Does anyone use a UPS battery backup on their tanks? I have a couple APC 750's laying around and am wondering if I should buy 2 new batteries for them and put 1 EB8 on each of them or both on 1.

Just wondering if people do something like that or something different for power spikes/fluctuations/brown-outs and surge protection.

Thanks!
 
ya I've seen lots of people use UPSs as a battery backup
 
Does anyone use a UPS battery backup on their tanks? I have a couple APC 750's laying around and am wondering if I should buy 2 new batteries for them and put 1 EB8 on each of them or both on 1.

Just wondering if people do something like that or something different for power spikes/fluctuations/brown-outs and surge protection.

Thanks!

Just don’t put your lights on the battery backup it will suck them done pretty quick
 
I can't really split things up like that, I have everything plugged into 2 EB8's with my Apex. I will just have to have it all on there, and in the event of a power failure I can manually shut off pumps and lights to save battery power.
 
[Q
UOTE="Jeepguy242, post: 4366559, member: 16053"]Assuming your home or awake when the power failure happens[/QUOTE] This
 
The big problem with UPSs is fixed capacity and lack of upgradability/repairability. Personally, if the batteries are dead, I wouldn't put new ones in. I'd develop a new solution.

As @Jeepguy242 said, manual intervention works great until you can't manually intervene. Your heater and lights will suck down your battery capacity in as short as an hour or so, depending on your battery size and heater/light power consumption. Personally, I use an inverter tied to a 50Ah deep cycle battery. I built a transfer switch so that when the power is on, my pumps draw power from the wall. When the power fails, the switch fails over to the inverter and my pumps draw battery power. When the power failure is over, the transfer switch goes back to drawing from the wall.
 
They just don’t last long
 
perhaps you can put just a powerhead like a korilia in the tank on a battery backup

i ran some numbers a couple of years ago.... it looked like a 750 watt ups will run a powerhead for almost 9-10 hours....

put the main pump on that, and it goes down to 2 hours...

at that point i just put the powerhead on and said that will have to do... at least it is better than nothing...
 
What about a heater? It would not run for long.
 
I actually have a backup generator for the house with a transfer switch that does almost everything we need (not automatic though, I have to start the generator)ie, well pump, lights, refigerator, air handlers, boiler, etc...
I am just looking for when we have those small spikes or short ones or when I am away and cant switch to generator power.
 
I actually have a backup generator for the house with a transfer switch that does almost everything we need (not automatic though, I have to start the generator)ie, well pump, lights, refigerator, air handlers, boiler, etc...
I am just looking for when we have those small spikes or short ones or when I am away and cant switch to generator power.
I have a decent sized UPC for those short outages/spikes. Worked today. I pulled a plug on my mixing pump and everything went down on my tank until I reset the CGFI everything is connected to. I have my main pump on the UPC, it doesn’t draw too much power; it would last about 2 hours at most though. Unfortunately my power head is part of the current USA loop system so I’d have to connect the whole system into the upc to use a power head for oxygenation which would suck all the power.

I want a better system, but for now the UPC has been good.
 
I have an APC 1500 that I have the pumps and skimmer on the battery side and the heater, lights an on the surge side. It will run the flow for about three hours on my 75 gallon tank. I have plenty of time to get the generator up and running.
 
The big problem with UPSs is fixed capacity and lack of upgradability/repairability. Personally, if the batteries are dead, I wouldn't put new ones in. I'd develop a new solution.

As @Jeepguy242 said, manual intervention works great until you can't manually intervene. Your heater and lights will suck down your battery capacity in as short as an hour or so, depending on your battery size and heater/light power consumption. Personally, I use an inverter tied to a 50Ah deep cycle battery. I built a transfer switch so that when the power is on, my pumps draw power from the wall. When the power fails, the switch fails over to the inverter and my pumps draw battery power. When the power failure is over, the transfer switch goes back to drawing from the wall.
I would be interested in learning how to wire up a transfer switch if you happen to have a good resource to link to. I also have an old UPS and was planning on just buying a new battery, but I already have an inverter and would rather have a larger battery if possible. The only auto transfer switch I found for sale was $50 on amazon and for a little more than that I could just put a new battery in the UPS and be done with it. But I am quite comfortable with DIY stuff so if that's an option I would much prefer that.
 
If you just run one pump that agates the surface of your tank your UPS should be able to run it for a pretty long time. You want a true sine wave UPS for best results, as your pump may not run well on it otherwise.
 
I would be interested in learning how to wire up a transfer switch if you happen to have a good resource to link to. I also have an old UPS and was planning on just buying a new battery, but I already have an inverter and would rather have a larger battery if possible. The only auto transfer switch I found for sale was $50 on amazon and for a little more than that I could just put a new battery in the UPS and be done with it. But I am quite comfortable with DIY stuff so if that's an option I would much prefer that.

Sure, it's pretty straight forward actually. If you want something a bit more plug and play, you can get a transfer box like this one. Basically, one plug goes into the wall, the other goes into your inverter, and there's a single output into which you plug your aquarium equipment. When the plug that goes into the wall loses power, the transfer switch fails over and starts pulling from the inverter. It automatically switches back when the power comes back on. For my system, I've attached a battery maintainer to my deep cycle battery. When the power comes back on, the charger comes on too, and automatically tops off and maintains any power that was used during the outage.

If you're comfortable with a bit more DIY, you can build a transfer switch even cheaper (around $10) using a DPDT relay. If you're not familiar with how relays work, you may want to just get a ready-made switch like the one above. To summarize briefly, a relay switches power when its coil is energized. There is a common connection (COM), which you could think of as your output. Then, there is a NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) connection. When there is no power going to the relay, NC is connected to COM. When the relay is energized, NO (normally open) is connected to COM. With the relay above, you would simply connect a female extension cord or outlet, which goes to your aquarium equipment, to COM. You would then connect your inverter's output to NC, because when there is no power and the relay is closed, you want to draw from your inverter. You would also connect your wall power to NO, because when there is power coming from the wall, you want to pull from the wall. You would also need to connect the relay's coil to the wall somehow to run the whole thing.

It's worth noting that you're playing with 120VAC if you choose to go the DIY route, which can easily kill you. If you don't have electrical experience or you haven't worked with relays before, I would strongly consider buying the ready-made transfer switch.
 
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I'm using two APC 1500VA backups on my system. One handles the entire tank, the other handles the mixing station above the tank. My thought process is to backup in case of short outages and power flickers. No, the backups won't run the entire tank for very long, but once the Apex senses the power outage all non-essential equipment gets turned off and the tank stays operational for about 90 minutes.
 
An APC UPS is great, however the stock battery isn't. Often don't last on power tests more than 2 years.
You can however extend externally to a larger battery bank, see Youtube videos on that. Very easy DIY.

For longer periods of no power, consider a manual system. Cheapest is car battery(ies) with a good inverter. Wall chargers are cheap, old car batteries that you would get rid of for your car, keep them for this. At room temperature they are still good.
Bonus - for camping trips.

Best long term - better than a generator (like for Florida or living on an island) - is using a hybrid car, Toyota / Lexus being the ones I recommend. Cheap & easy if you only want to power your tank(s) for months. For whole-house + hybrid car, google priups.com.
 

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