Urgent (I think) Quick Parameter Question Question

Thank you, Randy, for your quick response. Does that evidence hold true in a sick tank too where a new cycle would be less stable than in a cycled reef tank? Your shared expertise is much appreciated.

What does a "sick" tank mean? The uptake mechanism for Nitrite in fish competes with the uptake method for Chloride. In saltwater, Chloride is an extremely common ion. (I think I saw an example of around 19000 ppm) In the study I found on the effects of Nitrites, they found that even 39 ppm Nitrites didn't have an effect on the fish in their study.

In a new tank, you may have more nitrite and it may stick around for longer, but the Chloride concentration in the water probably isn't much different than a mature tank so I wouldn't think there would be any difference. If the tank isn't cycled there is obviously a possibility of higher levels of Ammonia. The Nitrate level as well as leaching of various chemicals from live rock can occur during cycling which could also affect fish.
 
I believe so. At some high concentration it becomes toxic. What point that is depends on the organisms you keep. I surveyed the literature a while back for levels and will post a link in the next post.
 
What does a "sick" tank mean? The uptake mechanism for Nitrite in fish competes with the uptake method for Chloride. In saltwater, Chloride is an extremely common ion. (I think I saw an example of around 19000 ppm) In the study I found on the effects of Nitrites, they found that even 39 ppm Nitrites didn't have an effect on the fish in their study.

In a new tank, you may have more nitrite and it may stick around for longer, but the Chloride concentration in the water probably isn't much different than a mature tank so I wouldn't think there would be any difference. If the tank isn't cycled there is obviously a possibility of higher levels of Ammonia. The Nitrate level as well as leaching of various chemicals from live rock can occur during cycling which could also affect fish.

Sick tank... no live rock, no leaching, no sand, only a few pieces of PVC for hiding, basic filtration with HOB filter and no carbon or other chemical remover, a heater, and an air stone...usually an added medication of some sort...ie copper, cp, or antibiotics. The tank would not be cycled as nitrites were high. In my case, I had an ammonia badge (I wouldn't set up any sick tank without one) and it did not show any detectable levels of ammonia present. I even changed the badge to make sure it wasn't a defective badge and showing a false reading. I didn't use a test kit to test for ammonia because I know they give false readings when copper is in the tank. The only parameter that was off was high nitrites; however, since ammonia test kits read false when copper is present in the water, I guessed that the nitrite test kit readings may have been false too, but without any other clues I chalked it up to a nitrites problem.

Come to think of it... I was still using the API copper test kit at the time....very unreliable...at least with my old eyes. It may have been the copper levels that were off...though I've always used Copper Power, which has proven to be fairly accurate when sticking to the dosing levels listed on the bottle - as later checked using my digital Hanna High Range Copper Test Kit. Truth is I will never know what killed the fish so close to the end of their treatment, but I guess now I can rule out high nitrite levels.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top