Urgh seriously.

Hello,

Lol @Fin I know I am missing something here, but haven’t figured it out yet. But with out haste I shall!
May be best that you don’t. :-)
 
Hello,

You so know I’m gonna find out now lol it will drive me crazy lol. Is it related to the movie or something else?
It is in the original movie. Not sure I saw the sequel. Not really worth the research. :-)
 
Hello,

Lol I was told they are all pretty good but the first three are pretty good. However, I was told that because of what they are lol I may not enjoy them but should try. Are they good enough to watch, I mean how bad can they be lol they have Eugene Levy in them and he is hilarious in serendipity, and over the hedge and splash
 
Hi Sarah,

Lolol so funny. Glad I follow your thread. [emoji23]

Doing well. Just having an issue of actually working at work. [emoji53]
Haven't been on the forums much.

Do you have "simply safe" in your area?
It's a cell phone based security system. One of the ads shows thieves cutting the wires to your landline security systems. [emoji6]

If I remember correctly Boise is very Mormon. You are quite the catch.
I have no doubt that at least a 1/2 a dozen people that you know have already mentally married you off to one of their relatives.
You will have no problem filling that 4000 ft² house with children. [emoji846]

I hear they can be even more joy than a tank of fish.[emoji846]
 
Hello,

I have missed my friends here and want to make sure they are all okay. @Fin and @Erica-Renee I had to show some love for the cartoon caption specially since I was in it also lol. Should my nephews and my parents and family and they just loved it.

Well for the last week and now still I have this amazing stubborn head cold. It’s really hard to be motivated to do anything when one is exhausted but this took its toll on me. But definitely hoping that who ever creates cough medicine comes up with new flavors. I hate soda pop but when it’s the only thing strong enough to wash the taste away, you know it’s bad. Plus 20 times worse when a family member makes you laugh while you take some and it comes out your nose. But since I’m congested it kinda stays in my noise and yeah it’s enough to drive one bonkers.

I’m curious to find some good articles and or do some research on cyano. Maybe do an article about it and nutrients etc. there seems to be a great confusion about this and or maybe I’m confused.

I was always told that cyano became present because one has an excess of nutrients and or light. So normal common remedies would be turn lights down, and decrease how much one feeds. Well, if this is true and for example my nitrates are 2-5 and phosphates are maybe .025 roughly in that range. Wouldn’t that be too low for cyano to thrive on? Yes I dose noprox but since I have been where I need to be it’s only 1ml a day. I have reached out to redsea about their product mainly because of another thread. (But besides that point) it clearly states that once this level is reached to dose 1ml which is on page 6 of their booklet.

Now I use to have small cyano problem onky on the left side front and most went away once the golden head goby was added. But every once in a while I find it back on my rocks or in that corner. Yet, from testing all my data seems to be the same except when I increased alk, and cal daily.

The positive in this is my corals were even more happy and three that I thought had died appeared to be alive, ugly but alive. I can handle ugly lol, don’t like non living. Now that I use a turkey blaster, If I see it on my rocks I squirt it off and let the water column carry it to the filter socks. Which then I have the phosphate pad and micro fiber pads before the returns which keep the water clean. I’m definitely open to some ideas on this subject matter.
 
I’m curious to find some good articles and or do some research on cyano. Maybe do an article about it and nutrients etc. there seems to be a great confusion about this and or maybe I’m confused.
There isn't much specific to a reef tank. Even if there was, it might be of no value if you have a different strain of cyano. Some strains of cyano cannot form a mat if NO3 is above 5ppm but many other can. Almost nothing will eat some strains of cyano but almost everything in a CuC will eat Spirulina. Spirulina is even used in fish food.
So here are some quick thoughts of mine....
We want to grow coral in our aquariums and coral have almost the same needs as algae, cyano, and dino's. Fortunately, our tanks do a much better job growing algae than the problematic stuff. In my opinion, GHA is one of the best things we can grow in our DT's, along with film algaes. Almost everything eats GHA so a good CuC will keep it unnoticeable. This is what happens on a typical reef, btw. You take the herbivores off a natural reef and it will get overgrown with algae. When the algae is eaten, much of it is released back into the water where it can be skimmed out, used by algae and/or coral or removed with water changes. As long as our CuC's will eat the stuff that is growing that we don't want, life is good. Some algae, like bryopsis, has few reef safe predators so that is a different issue.
When conditions in our aquariums becomes less than ideal for growing algae it will shift to growing cyano and/or dinoflagellates. Low nitrate tends to promote cyano and low phosphate tends to promote dinoflagellates. Both of these organisms have developed alternative methods to deal with lower nutrient environments Goal number 1 should be to try and make sure we are not NO3/PO4 limited.
Cyano has a reputation of growing in low flow areas and increasing flow is a common recommendation. My opinion is that the flow itself has nothing to do with cyano growth. If we have dying material or decaying food and detritus it will tend to collect in low flow areas. Cyanobacteria uses the alternative methods of obtaining nitrogen to thrive on the decaying matter. Right now I have some problematic algae that I am treating with Vibrant. As this stuff dies it gets a coating of cyanobacteria on it. To keep it from being a problem I use a small pump to blow all the decaying matter off where it can be removed by my filter socks.
This works together as to why cyano is less of a problem in mature reef tanks. They tend to have a more diverse algae population that can work to out compete the cyano. They also should have a more diverse CuC, from rotifers through fish, to help consume any cyano as its generated. Combine this with better coral coverage (less open rock for algae to grow on) and cyano is much less likely to be a problem.
 
I’m glad to see that you enjoyed the cartoon caption. I’ve got to say that I have enjoyed your thread. Been reading it from the beginning. You and your adventures instantly came to mind as soon as I saw the cartoon. I think I just got lucky to see it so soon after posting to get my caption in, as I’m sure a lot of others were thinking the same thing. Please, keep up the good work!
 
I’m glad to see that you enjoyed the cartoon caption. I’ve got to say that I have enjoyed your thread. Been reading it from the beginning. You and your adventures instantly came to mind as soon as I saw the cartoon. I think I just got lucky to see it so soon after posting to get my caption in, as I’m sure a lot of others were thinking the same thing. Please, keep up the good work!

Hello,

That made my day lol, I never thought in a million years I’d get to be the image of a cartoon lol. My dad had a much funnier one lol but he doesn’t get to participate lol, I had to show those who came over last night :).

Guy on the phone to 911: oh crap I’m scared my wife needs medical care. I think I saw something busting out her chest over here.

Wife: grrrrrrrr
 
There isn't much specific to a reef tank. Even if there was, it might be of no value if you have a different strain of cyano. Some strains of cyano cannot form a mat if NO3 is above 5ppm but many other can. Almost nothing will eat some strains of cyano but almost everything in a CuC will eat Spirulina. Spirulina is even used in fish food.
So here are some quick thoughts of mine....
We want to grow coral in our aquariums and coral have almost the same needs as algae, cyano, and dino's. Fortunately, our tanks do a much better job growing algae than the problematic stuff. In my opinion, GHA is one of the best things we can grow in our DT's, along with film algaes. Almost everything eats GHA so a good CuC will keep it unnoticeable. This is what happens on a typical reef, btw. You take the herbivores off a natural reef and it will get overgrown with algae. When the algae is eaten, much of it is released back into the water where it can be skimmed out, used by algae and/or coral or removed with water changes. As long as our CuC's will eat the stuff that is growing that we don't want, life is good. Some algae, like bryopsis, has few reef safe predators so that is a different issue.
When conditions in our aquariums becomes less than ideal for growing algae it will shift to growing cyano and/or dinoflagellates. Low nitrate tends to promote cyano and low phosphate tends to promote dinoflagellates. Both of these organisms have developed alternative methods to deal with lower nutrient environments Goal number 1 should be to try and make sure we are not NO3/PO4 limited.
Cyano has a reputation of growing in low flow areas and increasing flow is a common recommendation. My opinion is that the flow itself has nothing to do with cyano growth. If we have dying material or decaying food and detritus it will tend to collect in low flow areas. Cyanobacteria uses the alternative methods of obtaining nitrogen to thrive on the decaying matter. Right now I have some problematic algae that I am treating with Vibrant. As this stuff dies it gets a coating of cyanobacteria on it. To keep it from being a problem I use a small pump to blow all the decaying matter off where it can be removed by my filter socks.
This works together as to why cyano is less of a problem in mature reef tanks. They tend to have a more diverse algae population that can work to out compete the cyano. They also should have a more diverse CuC, from rotifers through fish, to help consume any cyano as its generated. Combine this with better coral coverage (less open rock for algae to grow on) and cyano is much less likely to be a problem.

Hello,

Finally lol it’s is explained in more or less simplistic. Yes I know the complex part but I want to make just small changes because large ones are not wise. The part that drives me nuts is it’s just that one section and its always on top of my zoa rock and some other tight spots.
As you mentioned I have taken a turkey blaster and wash the small amounts off.
Here is where I’m stuck mainly well stuck lol. So I dose the noprox because I was dumb and tried to raise nutrients to 20 and I lost one to many corals. My tank hated it, but I slowly moved nutrients back down with the noprox. Now that I’m dosing 1ml a day my nutrients stay stable. Now my acros took off after (well they were crusing before I upped the nutrients because again I was dumb), increased my alk and cal daily dosage and exact measurements daily. So my tank has been more stable because I make a point to make sure I do.

Last time before I changed my tank did amazing and yeah lol now, the only thing I wanna do is get rid of the small cyano I have and have growth healthy reef obviously. Now redsea in their manual states once we reach said number it’s 1ml and basically tells you to not stop. Those who dose this like I do, have you stopped before to build it back up some still under 10ppm of course. I’m almost okay with blasting the cyano off because what I’m doing is working lol. So I don’t wanna stir the pot too much.
 
As you mentioned I have taken a turkey blaster and wash the small amounts off.
I never mentioned a turkey baster. They may be fine for blowing off most of the mat but I want to try and remove what they are feeding on. I use a small pump to blast the crud off the rock that the cyano is feeding on. If I were you, I would give that a try. I use a Cobalt MJ1200 and will hold the pump discharge right up against the rock if needed.

Now redsea in their manual states once we reach said number it’s 1ml and basically tells you to not stop.
At this point you can stop. 1ml in your system is effectively nothing.
 
Hello,

@Brew12 sorry I just saw your post so that is good to know. If my nitrates start to creep back up, then I would just dose accordingly right. It’s odd that there are so many different test kits, and how far they range. I use the api I know it’s not the best but most I can’t find unless I order. Even the directions lol say to only test with their test kits.

However, I don’t think it would matter much because depending on the tank etc, nitrates have to be within a broad range. It’s not like ammonia, where even a tiny bit can harm your fish etc.

On a side note lol my username is no longer accurate I am now 25. I’m 1/4 of a century old :) no wait, yeah that’s okay, but can I just stay at this number lol.
 
On a side note lol my username is no longer accurate I am now 25. I’m 1/4 of a century old :) no wait, yeah that’s okay, but can I just stay at this number lol.

LOL! Happy Birthday!

 
LOL! Happy Birthday!
Happy birthday![emoji512]

Hello,

Ahhh thanks lol @NY_Caveman and @Crabby48 :)))). I had to work from 8 last night to 8 tonight so not doing much but sleep for the rest of it. However, later this week I will probably grab my nephews and niece and do something fun.
Work was fun, they gave me a cake of a person, and it was kinda mortifying lol because when went to eat the cake, we were cutting the persons arms and legs off. Of course to embarrass me more they chopped the cakes head off.
Some friends there took some pics, so as soon as they send them to me I can share.

But thanks sooooooo much :)
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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    Votes: 26 37.1%
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