Usage Clarification on the Red Sea Alkalinity Pro Test Kit

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Am I correct in saying that the test result is equal to the start minus the end?

So as an example, if I am starting with 1ml of titrant, and am at .3ml when I reach the end color, I've used .7ml of titrant. It is that .7ml that I need to look up on the chart?

(Start: 1ml) - (End: .3ml) = (Used: .7ml)

.7ml = .35meq/l and 9.8dKH

Correct?
 
Correct. their alk test is tricky. the end color should be a light peach/orange color. it will not reach red as illustrated on their instruction card.
 
This whole reef chemistry subject is giving me a headache... very discouraging.
 
Am I correct in saying that the test result is equal to the start minus the end?

So as an example, if I am starting with 1ml of titrant, and am at .3ml when I reach the end color, I've used .7ml of titrant. It is that .7ml that I need to look up on the chart?

(Start: 1ml) - (End: .3ml) = (Used: .7ml)

.7ml = .35meq/l and 9.8dKH

Correct?
Yes but go by the bottom of the plunger for the start and end values.

Start - bottom of plunger at 1ml

End - wherever the bottom of the plunger rests when you have the reagent change. Not where the fluid is sitting!

Then follow the formula you outlined above!
 
Correct. their alk test is tricky. the end color should be a light peach/orange color. it will not reach red as illustrated on their instruction card.

Actually I just got a new refill kit and they are back to the red end color. My last 2 refills were the orange color.
 
My test kit came with "foundation B". I don't understand when using this supplement is indicated. Can someone please explain?
 
Is Kalkwasser "Crystalline Calcium Chloride Dihydrate"?
 
My test kit came with "foundation B". I don't understand when using this supplement is indicated. Can someone please explain?
Hey Dom,

My understanding is Foundation B is a calcium supplement with buffers. I personally wouldn't use this approach to balance calcium and Alkalinity. 2 part dosing is much easier and much more simple.

Kalk is another good option too.
 
I personally use Seachem Reef Fusion part 1 and 2 for calcium and Alkalinity dosing. I make my own magnesium supplement
 
I personally use Seachem Reef Fusion part 1 and 2 for calcium and Alkalinity dosing. I make my own magnesium supplement

Today's readings:

SG: 38PPT
pH: 8.15 (lights off)
dKH: 9.0
CA: 340

As I understand things, 38PPT is high enough to get my calcium over 400. I'm dosing KALK to the recommended dose of the BRS calcium calculator. My goal is to achieve a 420 calcium level. Why? Because my frags, while surviving aren't growing (with the exception of my Zoas).

Are the frags consuming calcium at rate so great, I need to dose MORE? I mean; what other factors beside SG effect the calcium level?
 
So I've been wondering about this test lately as well. At the beginning of the test it is blue. It then starts to change to green and becomes a very light green over the next few drops. It eventually becomes yellowish-orange. So what point is considered the end-point of the titration?
 
So I've been wondering about this test lately as well. At the beginning of the test it is blue. It then starts to change to green and becomes a very light green over the next few drops. It eventually becomes yellowish-orange. So what point is considered the end-point of the titration?

The card that comes with the kit shows RED as the endpoint. but it looks more like a dark peach to me.
 
Are the frags consuming calcium at rate so great, I need to dose MORE?
for sps, and perhaps lps, its not the amount of available calcium/Alk (remember they are linked) its how they absorb it. For sps ans Acros its flow. if you want them to get bigger balance decent(in my case not great), Alk with light an major flow. you need to break that outer water boundary to make the minerals more available to the corals.

its not IMO the availability if the mineral in the WC that factors growth. its getting the mineral INTO the coral.

for the cal and alk balances re read this. use the graph to ascertain your position in relationship to some parameters w some pretty darned wide margins.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry

this is why i dont think trying to balance your alk based on the cal may be wise. re read and re read the skepticism of the accuracy of any test kit in this article.

if you test three times in a row and your cal and alk are in the target range,(mine is low btw so im going to add balanced 2 part OR kalk), your fine and the corals will grow.
if they aren't its more likely the answer lies elsewhere. Ie light food flow. w sps id wager flow.

the biggest burst of growth I have had in stony corals was w several large water changes then for a 6 weeks no dosing, Acro style etc in the highest flow in the tank, high nutrients and recently upgraded lights.



yes it sank my cal and alk, but did not stop them from growing.
 
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for sps, and perhaps lps, its not the amount of available calcium/Alk (remember they are linked) its how they absorb it. For sps ans Acros its flow. if you want them to get bigger balance decent(in my case not great), Alk with light an major flow. you need to break that outer water boundary to make the minerals more available to the corals.

That's interesting. I actually reduced flow around them thinking that strong flow would effect them in the same way as touching them... they'd close up.

its not IMO the availability if the mineral in the WC that factors growth. its getting the mineral INTO the coral.

for the cal and alk balances re read this. use the graph to ascertain your position in relationship to some parameters w some pretty darned wide margins.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry

I was reading this article earlier today. I'm in zone 3; "hard to correct and fairly common." I have been adding buffer to help maintain pH, and this can be a source of the problem. I've discontinued buffering.

this is why i dont think trying to balance your alk based on the cal may be wise. re read and re read the skepticism of the accuracy of any test kit in this article.

if you test three times in a row and your cal and alk are in the target range,(mine is low btw so im going to add balanced 2 part OR kalk), your fine and the corals will grow.
if they aren't its more likely the answer lies elsewhere. Ie light food flow. w sps id wager flow.

the biggest burst of growth I have had in stony corals was w several large water changes then for a 6 weeks no dosing, Acro style etc in the highest flow in the tank, high nutrients and recently upgraded lights.

I'm going to increase the flow by making it more direct.

yes it sank my cal and alk, but did not stop them from growing.
 
I've uploaded some pics. I'm pretty sure the first is a Zoa. But I don't know what the other two are.

image1.JPG

image2.JPG

image3.JPG
 
Is Kalkwasser "Crystalline Calcium Chloride Dihydrate"?

No. Kalkwasser (limewater in english) is made by dissolving calcium hydroxide or calcium oxide in fresh water.
 
I've uploaded some pics. I'm pretty sure the first is a Zoa. But I don't know what the other two are.

image1.JPG

image2.JPG

image3.JPG
Zoa Hammer and clove polyps.

The best growth on mine have been due to spot feeding. Assuming good light. Slightly dirtier than average water. I have cloves in several spots all seem to grow about the same(all grow well), same w zoas.
the hammer I really cant comment on as mine has been pouty for months.

this is all w average to poor alk and cal maintenance.

curiously My small metallic cloves grow like crazy , my giant cloves withered away.
 

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