resealing is not difficult, but very time consuming. The joint on the bottom panel is common on larger builds and is ok/safe to have in place. For $100 I'd jump all over it considering the stand, hood, and reef readiness it has going for it.
as far as resealing is concerned, you'll need painters tape, rubbing alcohol, acetone, lots of razor blades, something to hold the razors in that fits comfortably in your hand and some Momentive RTV 108 silicone. The most time consuming part is removing the old silicone residue. the bulk of silicone that creates the seam in the corners is easy to remove, but it's more tedious to remove the residual residue left behind. that's where the acetone comes in. acetone will soften the residue enough to be scraped off, but be VERY careful not to damge the silicone between the glass panels. The silicone between the glass panels is what holds the tank together. Once you get every single bit of residue off, it's time to reseal. Use the painters tape to create straight lines especially on the sides. If you mess up on the bottom it might not show if you have sand in the tank, but I'd still take my time and do it right the first time. Apply the RTV 108 to the seams and smooth out the silicone with your finger or a tool if you find one you like. It's important to do all seams at once and remove the tape before the silicone can form a skin. Team work would be very advantageous here. Then let the silicone dry for 7 days before doing your first leak test. Voila! You have a like new tank and stand for about $140.
